Brake booster and master

[Derek Simpson]

Hey guys,

Well I come to you with a with a question again.

I'm almost done gathering all the parts to do the "73" swap on my "66" Newport.

All I need to get the master and booster. As far as the booster I want to be able to run disks in the rear eventually

Can someone please point me in the right direction

 

[BillGrissom]

The MC doesn't really map to drum or disks. The only difference is that disk MC's have a larger front reservoir and sometimes a smaller piston to make the pedal easier. You also don't want the ~10 psi pressure lock-up device in the MC ports, as came w/ old drum MC's long ago (no longer needed). For rear disks you may want a big reservoir for both F & R circuits. Most modern aluminum MC's have a single fill port for both circuits. With a 2-4 adapter plate, you can mount such MC's. I have an MC for a 95-99 "cloud" car on a "correct" Bendix booster on my 65 Newport. Many A-body guys use an MC for a late-80's Dodge truck. The main thing for rear disks is you want either no proportioning valve or one set to very minimal reduction for the rears. If designed correctly, the fronts will skid just before the rears in a wet parking lot.

 

[jstaples2]

Hey Derek -
I ran had a tough time figuring out what I needed as well (manual drum/drum to a manual disc/drum). After buying and returning a couple MC's, I ended up calling Dr. Diff and he got me sorted out.

 

[Derek Simpson]

Hey Derek -
I ran had a tough time figuring out what I needed as well (manual drum/drum to a manual disc/drum). After buying and returning a couple MC's, I ended up calling Dr. Diff and he got me sorted out.

Thank you for the info. Do you remember what the MC and Booster ran you?

 

[Derek Simpson]

The MC doesn't really map to drum or disks. The only difference is that disk MC's have a larger front reservoir and sometimes a smaller piston to make the pedal easier. You also don't want the ~10 psi pressure lock-up device in the MC ports, as came w/ old drum MC's long ago (no longer needed). For rear disks you may want a big reservoir for both F & R circuits. Most modern aluminum MC's have a single fill port for both circuits. With a 2-4 adapter plate, you can mount such MC's. I have an MC for a 95-99 "cloud" car on a "correct" Bendix booster on my 65 Newport. Many A-body guys use an MC for a late-80's Dodge truck. The main thing for rear disks is you want either no proportioning valve or one set to very minimal reduction for the rears. If designed correctly, the fronts will skid just before the rears in a wet parking lot.

Thank you for the input! Yeah this is the last parts I need lol but I know it's going to be worth it

 

[jstaples2]

Thank you for the info. Do you remember what the MC and Booster ran you?

This one - Mopar Aluminum Master Cylinder Kit
I ran the 4 stud with manual brakes (no power brakes on my fury) with the 1 1/32 bore. Honestly, call the phone number and Cass will answer. He'll help you sort it out to make sure you get the right stuff. He'll want to know what caliper you are running (how many pistons and what size) and a couple other things and you'll be good to go.