Brake Pedal not returning all the way

[Allacks]

So, recently I noticed my brake lights staying on after I park my '68 Fury. I simply fixed the problem by pulling up on the brake pedal to engage the brake light switch. That worked until my brake pedal stopped being able to return to the point of engaging the switch. Now my brake lights will stay on no matter how much I try and pull the brake pedal backwards. The pedal will just slowly drop down. Braking seems fine, its just the pedal that is bugging me. I'm not losing any fluid(that is noticeable). I have maunal drums all around. Any suggestions would be great.

 

[LocuMob]

I have similar issues with one of my cars. My brakes are fine, but another car I have went through the same thing, so bad I had to use my foot to pull the pedal back up while driving. Brakes eventually went out on me, luckily I was in the country on a dirt road, I don't need to experience that in any amount of traffic.

Unless it's as simple as the spring is worn out and not holding the pedal up.

 

[Allacks]

I have similar issues with one of my cars. My brakes are fine, but another car I have went through the same thing, so bad I had to use my foot to pull the pedal back up while driving. Brakes eventually went out on me, luckily I was in the country on a dirt road, I don't need to experience that in any amount of traffic.

Unless it's as simple as the spring is worn out and not holding the pedal up.

That is the exact thing I was having to do. I have to pull the brake pedal back up to turn my brake lights off

 

[Kapt]

I have the same problem. Ended up having to add a couple springs to the pedal to pull it back all the way. Have to get out and check the lights every time I get out

 

[LocuMob]

For the cost of the master and brake fluid, I'd swap a new one in.

 

[ceebuddy]

If it's just the brake light staying on, you could simply adjust the brake light switch to the current position of the brake pedal lever, it's just one screw.

I had to to that after installing a new master cylinder on my all drum brake car. I don't know why the new cylinder results in a different end (or "up") position of the brake pedal. Braking seems to be fine.

However, if your pedal is sagging with the old master cylinder still in, I'd wonder if the master cylinder is still all good or if you do have a leak somewhere where you might not notice it right away. Or perhaps it's just air in the system?

 

[rapidtrans]

Bungee cord worked for we.
Same issue with the Monaco. Brakes work fine but pedal doesn’t quite return enough to cancel the brake lights.
I know the car has a replacement MC and figure that or a mis-adjustment of the push rod may be the culprit. Booster tests out ok.
The gerry-rig works till I install a dual MC this spring.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Adjust the switch.

 

[Kapt]

I had to mess with mine more today. Adjusted the switch (which isn't the right one for the car), bent the bracket that holds the switch (home-made to work with the switch that isn't the right one for the car), and it all seems to be working correctly now. We'll see

 

[Gerald Morris]

A hydraulic brake light switch can be had from JEGS for $12 w 1/8" NPT. I started using hydraulic brake light switches 3 yrs ago, after tiring of standing on my head under the steering wheel. Get a U.S.A. made one though. Sino sewage switches last 9-12 months. Never had trouble with my pedal failing to return to position to this date, and plan to install a dual pot MC before summer this year. That should be the last improvement we need in Mathilda's brakes, aside from replacing the steel line to the rear when needed. Car stops well at present. No booster, all drums, which is what we like.

 

[Allacks]

A hydraulic brake light switch can be had from JEGS for $12 w 1/8" NPT. I started using hydraulic brake light switches 3 yrs ago, after tiring of standing on my head under the steering wheel. Get a U.S.A. made one though. Sino sewage switches last 9-12 months. Never had trouble with my pedal failing to return to position to this date, and plan to install a dual pot MC before summer this year. That should be the last improvement we need in Mathilda's brakes, aside from replacing the steel line to the rear when needed. Car stops well at present. No booster, all drums, which is what we like.

I will have to look into this more. I’m not entirely familiar with these. Even with my little experience, I already hate standing on my head to try and fix the problem. Thank you for the suggestion!

 

[Allacks]

After trying to adjust the brake light switch, I discovered its near impossible to do anything under the dash of the Fury. I wasn’t even able to remove the bracket that holds the brake switch due to the fact that I could not get a wrench on the bolt because of the steering column being in the way. I will try and work on it some more tomorrow if possible.
Also, I broke my switch somehow. So I’ll need a new one here soon

 

[Gerald Morris]

After trying to adjust the brake light switch, I discovered its near impossible to do anything under the dash of the Fury. I wasn’t even able to remove the bracket that holds the brake switch due to the fact that I could not get a wrench on the bolt because of the steering column being in the way. I will try and work on it some more tomorrow if possible.
Also, I broke my switch somehow. So I’ll need a new one here soon

the brake light runs off a pink wire that comes out of the fuse box, and runs to a number of lights under the dash. Its ALWAYS hot, so the brake lights will work even with the engine off. Disconnect your battery before working on this stuff. You just need to cut it loose from the brake light switch, which has a white wire going to the tail lights from it. Extend both wires through your firewall up to the master cylinder. Attach the 1/8" NPT threaded pressure switch under the MC, then crimp a couple female bullet connector ends to each wire. Then snap them onto the pressure switch,

NO MORE BULLSHIT WITH A MECHANICAL SWITCH ON A BRACKET THAT NEEDS TO BE ALIGNED JUST SO WITH THE BRAKE PEDAL ARM!!!

PROBLEMS SOLVED!

 

[Allacks]

the brake light runs off a pink wire that comes out of the fuse box, and runs to a number of lights under the dash. Its ALWAYS hot, so the brake lights will work even with the engine off. Disconnect your battery before working on this stuff. You just need to cut it loose from the brake light switch, which has a white wire going to the tail lights from it. Extend both wires through your firewall up to the master cylinder. Attach the 1/8" NPT threaded pressure switch under the MC, then crimp a couple female bullet connector ends to each wire. Then snap them onto the pressure switch,

NO MORE BULLSHIT WITH A MECHANICAL SWITCH ON A BRACKET THAT NEEDS TO BE ALIGNED JUST SO WITH THE BRAKE PEDAL ARM!!!

PROBLEMS SOLVED!

Thank you very much Gerald! Where were you able to attach the 1/8 switch end to? I see a Jegs kit with what looks like everything. Will I need another union to add it to the system?

 

[Allacks]

I spent last weekend installing a hydraulic brake switch on the '68. everything went acording to plan, except for that fact that I cut too close to the bend in the brake line and had to hammer it flat to get the line into the double flaring tool. It's not beautiful, but its good enough for who its for. I went with Jeg's EZ kit that included almost everything I needed. I just had to order more 3/8-24 tube nuts to complete the circuit. I had to run to the auto parts store so I could buy some wire and butt connectors. After I got everything installed the brake lights work amazingly. As soon as you press, even a little bit on the pedal, the lights come on. Thank you Gerald for the recommendation! I really appreciate everyone's help.