Brand of this distributor

Blue Brick

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Wondering if anybody has an idea of what brand of distributor this is? It's broken, and I was just curious of the brand name. The casting and the plastic thrust collar make me think it's a Proform.

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"Brand" might be unknown, as it looks like any other Chrysler aluminum housing distributor to me. Any stamped numbers in the space for such, on the side of the top section? 1970 or there abouts, due to the o-ring gasket on the bottom area. Electronic or points?

As for a replacement, any Chrysler-application distributor should work, provided the ignition coil switching is the same (single points or electronic) and the shaft length is appropriate for the block it will be used in (B or RB). Similar with the dual point Prestolite cast iron housing distributors.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Should be a 7-digit number stamped into the raised horizontal boss on the side. Which is the ID/part number for the assy.
 
Any metal tags with an ID number on them?

Might be an aftermarket unit that uses a new casting housing of Chrysler architecture? Such that replacement parts for a Chrysler application will fit it.
 
Any metal tags with an ID number on them?

Might be an aftermarket unit that uses a new casting housing of Chrysler architecture? Such that replacement parts for a Chrysler application will fit it.

No tags. Yes, I think it's an aftermarket distributor too. It was suggested that it might be a MP from the 80's.

I am not familiar the MP brand.
 
Wondering if anybody has an idea of what brand of distributor this is? It's broken, and I was just curious of the brand name. The casting and the plastic thrust collar make me think it's a Proform.

View attachment 722713
Looks like just a generic replacement. I'm sure Proform uses the same Chinese one that you would buy over the counter at any chain auto store.

BTW, Chrysler used a plastic thrust collar for some distributors too. I've had to replace a couple over the years, but I don't remember what cars they were in.

And just to be curious, what's broken? I'll bet some stuff, like the pick-up, will interchange.

No tags. Yes, I think it's an aftermarket distributor too. It was suggested that it might be a MP from the 80's.

I am not familiar the MP brand.
MP is Mopar Performance right from Chrysler. Their stuff would have a part number on it. That stuff was usually as good or better than production parts.
 
"MP" should be "Mopar Performance", which is Chrysler's in-house performance parts entity. They sold an electronic ignition conversion kit in the 1980s. A complete kit or in pieces. The kit had all of the harnesses and such to convert from a points ignition to an OEM-level factory electronic unit. All OEM level parts as Chrysler would have put on new production cars. A kit that was accepeted as an upgrade for any Mopar that had a points ignition system.

That kit was also used to de-Lean Burn ignition vehicles. That kit plus a new carb was the fix for many of the LB problems. Your 1977 could have been in that mix. All of these items were listed in the Mopar Performance Parts Catalog, with part numbers starting with "P". Some might have used a generic auto supply distributor and hacked the wiring to fit, too.

I bought and installed one of those kits on my '67 Chrysler in the later 1980s, when they were "still Chrysler" items, rather than the licensed kits/parts that came later and currently. I don't recall looking at the side of the housing for a part number, though. I installed it and it worked. Yet, for production reasons, I suspect there should be a stamped number on the housing, for internal ID purposes more than anything else. There were three distributors. One for LA, one for B, and one for RB engines. The B-engine one would be what fits your 400.

One of the features of the MP distributors was that they had the factory "quick advance curve" kit in them, as to springs to allow full mechanical advance by 3000rpm or less. In normal operation, I could tell no real difference in performance when I put the kit in my Chrysler, but the advance happened quicker than stock.

Hope this might help,
CBODY67
 
Looks like just a generic replacement. I'm sure Proform uses the same Chinese one that you would buy over the counter at any chain auto store.

BTW, Chrysler used a plastic thrust collar for some distributors too. I've had to replace a couple over the years, but I don't remember what cars they were in.

And just to be curious, what's broken? I'll bet some stuff, like the pick-up, will interchange.


MP is Mopar Performance right from Chrysler. Their stuff would have a part number on it. That stuff was usually as good or better than production parts.


Unless the part numbers are under the vacuum advance. The top shaft moves independently from the bottom shaft.
 
Unless the part numbers are under the vacuum advance. The top shaft moves independently from the bottom shaft.
It wouldn't be under the vacuum advance, it would be easy to see. Unless it was a tag that's fallen off.

The top and bottom shafts are two separate pieces. The top shaft will turn as much as the stops on the advance weights will let it (crappy explanation, sorry). So you can twist the top shaft about 10° or so if you are holding the bottom shaft. There would be some light resistance to turning and it would snap back to its original position.

It would be interesting to pull the breaker plate and see what's broken as I can't ever remember one breaking completely, but then again, stuff does break.
 
It wouldn't be under the vacuum advance, it would be easy to see. Unless it was a tag that's fallen off.

The top and bottom shafts are two separate pieces. The top shaft will turn as much as the stops on the advance weights will let it (crappy explanation, sorry). So you can twist the top shaft about 10° or so if you are holding the bottom shaft. There would be some light resistance to turning and it would snap back to its original position.

It would be interesting to pull the breaker plate and see what's broken as I can't ever remember one breaking completely, but then again, stuff does break.

It keeps turning. If I hold the bottom shaft, I can continuously turn the top one.
 
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