Building of a 507 Stroker

[Michael Robinson]

now that the funds are all here along with most of the parts im going to start building, but first I want to give an overview and see if there are any further recommendations, all pros and cons are welcome as I do want to know opinions! Starting with the block its a 76 440 bored .40 over out of an RV, at the current moment I have a Moroso Deep Pan with Pickup, HV oil pump with hardened shaft, stroker windage tray, complete girdle/stud kit, complete stroker rotating assembly, Comp XE285HL cam kit, Mopar M1 single plane, Holley 850 carb, and all the fun ignition components! the headers are ordered and are TTi Headers, the heads im looking at for now to just put it on the road are 440 source aluminum heads, with slight work on the heads im aiming for 10.5:1 compression, thats about all I have for now! send anything back? swap anything out? buy anything else?

 

[Yatzee]

now that the funds are all here along with most of the parts im going to start building, but first I want to give an overview and see if there are any further recommendations, all pros and cons are welcome as I do want to know opinions! Starting with the block its a 76 440 bored .40 over out of an RV, at the current moment I have a Moroso Deep Pan with Pickup, HV oil pump with hardened shaft, stroker windage tray, complete girdle/stud kit, complete stroker rotating assembly, Comp XE285HL cam kit, Mopar M1 single plane, Holley 850 carb, and all the fun ignition components! the headers are ordered and are TTi Headers, the heads im looking at for now to just put it on the road are 440 source aluminum heads, with slight work on the heads im aiming for 10.5:1 compression, thats about all I have for now! send anything back? swap anything out? buy anything else?

I have a 512 made out of a 73 Chrysler 400 and it yields 630 HP and torque to die for. Should have put gripier tires out back. You have the makings of a very stout engine but I would have definitely gone with Trick Flow heads operated via roller everything. The timing chain will have to be the best money can buy and I recommend Romac. Names like Molnar Tech, Hughes, Straub, AFR and Diamond should be high on your list for quality durable parts. The engine will be only as strong as the weakest link. When you install the rear seal, set the seam vertical and use a touch of Indian Head on the mating surfaces. Trash the side seals, open the grooves slightly and inject The Right Stuff until it comes out the bottom of the holder which you'll have to chamfer a bit. Us a slight coating of Indian Head on the freeze plugs before installation. Break-in oil is a must and don't scrimp, Valvoline VR1 10w30 is the best regardless of if you use roller or not.Trend Tech or Manton push rods will guarantee long life without deflection but don't go over size (3/8) because they're not necessary. Check the clearance where the rods come through the ports in the heads - at full lift, they may scrub the side of the head. For an engine of your compression ratio I assume you're going roller to avoid that "stupid ***" brake in routine. Good luck, take your time, invest wisely (quality) and let us know how things turn out.

 

[Michael Robinson]

I have a 512 made out of a 73 Chrysler 400 and it yields 630 HP and torque to die for. Should have put gripier tires out back. You have the makings of a very stout engine but I would have definitely gone with Trick Flow heads operated via roller everything. The timing chain will have to be the best money can buy and I recommend Romac. Names like Molnar Tech, Hughes, Straub, AFR and Diamond should be high on your list for quality durable parts. The engine will be only as strong as the weakest link. When you install the rear seal, set the seam vertical and use a touch of Indian Head on the mating surfaces. Trash the side seals, open the grooves slightly and inject The Right Stuff until it comes out the bottom of the holder which you'll have to chamfer a bit. Us a slight coating of Indian Head on the freeze plugs before installation. Break-in oil is a must and don't scrimp, Valvoline VR1 10w30 is the best regardless of if you use roller or not.Trend Tech or Manton push rods will guarantee long life without deflection but don't go over size (3/8) because they're not necessary. Check the clearance where the rods come through the ports in the heads - at full lift, they may scrub the side of the head. For an engine of your compression ratio I assume you're going roller to avoid that "stupid ***" brake in routine. Good luck, take your time, invest wisely (quality) and let us know how things turn out.

I like your train of thought, the Trick flow heads are another $1000 that I dont want to shell out at the moment which is why I waited, the only oil that is ran in this car NO MATTER WHAT is VR1, the cam kit is actually a flat tappet this time around and includes all matching hardware needed, this winter is when ill tear back into it, upgrade the cam to a roller and swap heads! the car has been down a year 1/2 since I dropped a valve and I just cant wait!! therefore im willing to spend a little extra in the long run just to put it back on the road now

 

[Yatzee]

I like your train of thought, the Trick flow heads are another $1000 that I dont want to shell out at the moment which is why I waited, the only oil that is ran in this car NO MATTER WHAT is VR1, the cam kit is actually a flat tappet this time around and includes all matching hardware needed, this winter is when ill tear back into it, upgrade the cam to a roller and swap heads! the car has been down a year 1/2 since I dropped a valve and I just cant wait!! therefore im willing to spend a little extra in the long run just to put it back on the road now

Pay particular attention on the bottom end especially if your using a girdle. I used aluminum bearing caps under the girdle and had the machine shop level the skirt of the block with the tops of the caps but only after the caps were torqued down. Same goes for the rear seal holder. All said and done no gaskets were used at the pan or girdle. The lightest smear of The Right Stuff goes between the block and girdle as not to change the clearance to the main caps. You will probably not be able to use a windage tray with the girdle, it's probably not necessary anyway if you use a 7 qt oil pan. The pickup will have to be altered in length to accommodate the extra 1/2 from the girdle thickness. Maintain a parallel distance of 5/16 under the pickup to the bottom of the pan. Again, no gasket at the pan, The Right Stuff all around encircling all bolt holes. Be aware of the clearance from the bottom of the pan to the drag link. You can always shim the mounts or slightly dent the pan but if you go the pan route, heat the area and make sure the pan is screwed down to thick 3/4 plywood. You don't want distortion. I went with a PTC torque convertor (3400 stall custom made using engine and drive specs) and it's unbelievable. While on the subject, plan on beefing up in the area of the tranny and drive shaft or they'll be laying on the pavement the first time you get your foot into it. Oh, by the way, I left the 383 badging on the car, pity the smucks that think I'm under-powered.

 

[Michael Robinson]

Pay particular attention on the bottom end especially if your using a girdle. I used aluminum bearing caps under the girdle and had the machine shop level the skirt of the block with the tops of the caps but only after the caps were torqued down. Same goes for the rear seal holder. All said and done no gaskets were used at the pan or girdle. The lightest smear of The Right Stuff goes between the block and girdle as not to change the clearance to the main caps. You will probably not be able to use a windage tray with the girdle, it's probably not necessary anyway if you use a 7 qt oil pan. The pickup will have to be altered in length to accommodate the extra 1/2 from the girdle thickness. Maintain a parallel distance of 5/16 under the pickup to the bottom of the pan. Again, no gasket at the pan, The Right Stuff all around encircling all bolt holes. Be aware of the clearance from the bottom of the pan to the drag link. You can always shim the mounts or slightly dent the pan but if you go the pan route, heat the area and make sure the pan is screwed down to thick 3/4 plywood. You don't want distortion. I went with a PTC torque convertor (3400 stall custom made using engine and drive specs) and it's unbelievable. While on the subject, plan on beefing up in the area of the tranny and drive shaft or they'll be laying on the pavement the first time you get your foot into it. Oh, by the way, I left the 383 badging on the car, pity the smucks that think I'm under-powered.

Im glad you responded haha I had planned on factory caps and the girdle is only 1/4 thick, the wind age tray was bought before the deep pan which is why I have it, I have done alot of research on the different pans that can be used on my year and model car so that I dont have to modify anything! I am using a "built" stall at 3500 as well! tranny is fully built, drive shaft is stock with aftermarket solid ujoints

 

[FURYGT]

Michael, why not go with a 520" stroker? That is what I have, it was professionally built but sadly the engine builder has passed.

Two suggestions. Fabricate a driveshaft loop. A friend made one for me and I really like the way its made and is installed - it bolts to the back of the transmission mount. As for a torque converter, before you buy one call Lenny at Ultimate Converters. He will custom build one for you for a better price than an off the shelf one. You may have to come up with HEMI "core" torque converter to send to him as that is what I did.

Bill

 

[polara71]

Always a leader Bill

 

[moper]

Has the block already been machined? Main stud installation requires the block be align honed at minimum. Bored if necessary. Girdles are a waste of money IMO. They will not help the inherrant issue of block fatigue in the main webs. So I've never used them, even making 600+hp. The cam you've selected is (IMO) too small. You need to choose a camshaft that is at minimum 15% larger than you would put into a 440. That's how much bigger you've made it. I like cams in the 250* range at .050 for these engines, and I think the HL line might be a poorer choice too. If it was me I'd look at the XE294H or the Magnum 294S flat tappet solid. Regardless you will want to replace the heads with something better, and make sure the valve springs are matched to the cam, and not by the lift figures...