Bulkhead connector

[Derik]

Are the bulkhead connectors pretty much universal between mopars in the 60s or are they vehicle specific? My car is a 68 monaco 4door.

 

[mr. fix it]

that would be a very good assumption... especially if you stick to a C body 65 to 69

 

[Fury440]

As long as the plastic block is in OK condition, you can replace all the electrical connectors.
Napa...part number 784490 for male and 784491 for female. The package says GM on it, but they work on Mopars also.

 

[live4theking]

As long as the plastic block is in OK condition, you can replace all the electrical connectors.
Napa...part number 784490 for male and 784491 for female. The package says GM on it, but they work on Mopars also.

That's some real good information there.

 

[MYSINBIN]

Are the bulkhead connectors pretty much universal between mopars in the 60s or are they vehicle specific? My car is a 68 monaco 4door.

They are the same from '66-'70.

You'll find NOS, repro, and used on eBay.

I bought one from Bill Evans about 7 years ago:

Evans Wiring Harnesses

Hope the input helps.

John

 

[Derik]

As long as the plastic block is in OK condition, you can replace all the electrical connectors.
Napa...part number 784490 for male and 784491 for female. The package says GM on it, but they work on Mopars also.

Looks like I'm going straight to Napa after work thanks a ton

 

[mr. fix it]

got mine from www.Delcity.net
they are referred to as Packard connectors.
Do yourself a favour and get the right crimper to crimp these connectors.

 

[live4theking]

Ok, so I want to take mine apart and clean it and put some deox grease in it. There are metal tabs top and bottom, but it looks like they hold it in the firewall. Are there tabs somewhere that need to be released to let it come apart? It looks to be in pretty good shape. I don't want to mess with it too much and break it if there is a simple way to release it.

 

[mr. fix it]

they are a friction fit and will not be damaged. I suggest you spray the area with a penetrating fluid like WD-40.

Here is a photo of my firewall block. it was pretty nasty and the slots where the main amp gauge wires goes in & out were melted so I moved it to an unused slot when rebuilding the harness

 

[mr. fix it]

not to hijack this thread but everyone should be checking their head light switch out as well.

This was mine when I checked all the connections under the dash

 

[live4theking]

Mr. Fix It,
Thanks for the information and pics.

 

[mr. fix it]

 

[Big_John]

Ok, so I want to take mine apart and clean it and put some deox grease in it. There are metal tabs top and bottom, but it looks like they hold it in the firewall. Are there tabs somewhere that need to be released to let it come apart? It looks to be in pretty good shape. I don't want to mess with it too much and break it if there is a simple way to release it.

Deoxit is not a grease. It's a liquid that cleans/stops corrosion and lubricates the contacts. There is also dielectric grease, which is a non conductor and is good to seal the plastic insulator.

 

[mr. fix it]

If I can't use a new connector simply because it is not available, I use white vinegar and keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't clean it too much. then neutralise it with baking soda and water solution.
Re-crimp as needed to make it tight then coat it in dielectric grease

I did this with my door light switch just last night on the driver side.
It was super green from corrosion build up.
It now looks like brand new

The Deoxit sounds like the same deal as what I do for cleaning the connectors

 

[Big_John]

If I can't use a new connector simply because it is not available, I use white vinegar and keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't clean it too much. then neutralise it with baking soda and water solution.
Re-crimp as needed to make it tight then coat it in dielectric grease

I did this with my door light switch just last night on the driver side.
It was super green from corrosion build up.
It now looks like brand new

The Deoxit sounds like the same deal as what I do for cleaning the connectors

It is, just a lot more convenient and it helps prevent more corrosion. I started using it after having it recommended to me by a guy in the electronics business. I use it all the time now. Great stuff.

I like to get the D series (red) in the bottle with the brush in it. I usually buy it from Amazon rather than direct. Better deal on shipping.

DeoxIT® D-Series - Contact Cleaner & Rejuvenator

 

[mr. fix it]

wow! looking at the prices I think that there must be gold dust in the cans! LOL!!

 

[Big_John]

A little goes a long way.

 

[Fury440]

The key to a good electrical connection is a mechanically strong and tight joint that maximizes the contact area of the two surfaces being joined. This means the male and female union must be clean and tight, just as all such unions are meant to be. Lubrication is not required, but some method of protection from moisture and dust is. The old time tested product, Vaseline is one choice, but I prefer a high temp grease that won't melt and drip all over the place. The fancy high price contact cleaners are really more suited to silver or gold plated contacts found in rotating switches. In the old pre-digital days we used contact cleaner by the gallon while trying to squeak more life out of a TV channel selector rotary switch.

 

[Big_John]

The problem with vasoline or grease is they are just another added coating that used incorrectly, increases resistance. Google the word "dielectric" and you'll understand.

Resistance is the enemy here. It causes heat and eventual failure of the circuit. It may not even happen at the connection.... It may happen somewhere else in the circuit due to the added resistance and the blame never comes back to the root cause. So many of the electrical problems associated with our cars comes back to corrosion and oxidation of electrical contacts. I always wonder how much money and time was spent on replacing things that really was the electrical connection... The wiring is unplugged/plugged back in and viola! It works and the replacement is called a success, but the real accomplishment was that plugging and unplugging the connector cut through the oxidation/corrosion and now the circuit works again... until the next time.

There are lubricants for connectors that are used in the electronic world, but really that isn't necessary for this use. The Deoxit is more for cleaning the connection and keeping it from corroding. Lubrication is just a bonus. The application of white vinegar, as was mentioned, will work too, as will many good contact cleaners. Anything to clean the corrosion is what is needed.

BTW, good contact cleaner, like used in tuners, does have a lubricant in it. I too have used enough of it.... LOL! I even still have my Dad's Sylvania tube tester!

Of course... they've made it contact cleaner so non-toxic that you can probably drink it.. and therefore doesn't work like the "old stuff". That got me switching to the Deoxit.

OK... I'll get off my soap box. I got a little long winded about a subject I've been giving some (perhaps too much) thought to lately. I need to get out more. LOL!

 

[Stormer]

they are a friction fit and will not be damaged. I suggest you spray the area with a penetrating fluid like WD-40.

Here is a photo of my firewall block. it was pretty nasty and the slots where the main amp gauge wires goes in & out were melted so I moved it to an unused slot when rebuilding the harnessView attachment 78257

And that right there is the reason that everybody here should do the amp gauge bypass mod....