Checked a search some time back....lots on pads but not the dash. Anyone removed one with some pointers. I should have done this in the beginning, and may never, but would be a good thing for anyone beginning the job. I think there may be about four to six fasteners along the top. Have not looked at the pedal box, but suspect not attached to dash. But, are there any braces in the center. The steer column will act a bit as a brace, and there are braces, but not sure if only for the radio. For some dimwit reason, I did not think it was removable when I began my wiring replacement, which would have been the time. And, my defrost vents were not attached either. And I had to pull all the gauges ,radio et al as well. I was right there....oh well, too old now to learn anything much. thanks
Dash removal
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
In earlier times, in many vehicles, the instrument panel shell was a part of the structure and painted when the vehicle was painted. That was when there was not much complexity in what was in the instrument panel.
As things evolved, the instrument panel came to not be a part of the car when it was painted, being assembled "off-line" at the assy plant. Then installed as a unit into the vehicle structure, on the main assy line. This allows for much easier installation of the hvac module, pedal related items, and other things attached to the firewall/inner cowl area, with the inst pnl not being there. And, of course, the front seat items are not installed yet, either.
When we did the Superbird restoration in the early 1990s, taking it to Mopar Nats in 1992, we replicated as many OEM-production ways the car was assembled at the assy plant. In the case of the inst pnl, it was put together on a long, empty work bench. After it had been painted, everything was put back into it, on the bench. When completed, most of the interior was installed, except the front seat.
On the night we installed the inst pnl, one guy was on each end, holding it carefully and firmly. Then they "walked into" the front seat area and carefully positioned the completed inst pnl to the A-pillar and inner cowl area, as others had the needed bolts and wrenches to install the bolts to those body areas and across the front of the panel to the upper cowl area. Took maybe 10 minutes? Then the steering column went in next. Plus making sure everything was securely plugged in at the buokhead connector. Then the flexible defroster ducts, radio antenna coaxial cable, and anything else that needed to be plugged in.
On that car, the windshield was not installed, so that made for a much more open and accessible environment to work in. It was also a bench seat column shift car, so no console mounting brackets to trip over, either.
Doing this car in the same assembly orientation as the assy plnt proved the viability of this approach, to us. In most cases, easier and less-involved than trying to do things as we might perceive as "normal" in the field. The engine, front frame/transmission were installed from the bottom, which meant NO issues with chipping the fresh paint on the inner fenders or having to install the hood, afterwards. Having a body-contact lift was necessary, which was in the shop.
Just some thoughts and experiences,
CBODY67
As things evolved, the instrument panel came to not be a part of the car when it was painted, being assembled "off-line" at the assy plant. Then installed as a unit into the vehicle structure, on the main assy line. This allows for much easier installation of the hvac module, pedal related items, and other things attached to the firewall/inner cowl area, with the inst pnl not being there. And, of course, the front seat items are not installed yet, either.
When we did the Superbird restoration in the early 1990s, taking it to Mopar Nats in 1992, we replicated as many OEM-production ways the car was assembled at the assy plant. In the case of the inst pnl, it was put together on a long, empty work bench. After it had been painted, everything was put back into it, on the bench. When completed, most of the interior was installed, except the front seat.
On the night we installed the inst pnl, one guy was on each end, holding it carefully and firmly. Then they "walked into" the front seat area and carefully positioned the completed inst pnl to the A-pillar and inner cowl area, as others had the needed bolts and wrenches to install the bolts to those body areas and across the front of the panel to the upper cowl area. Took maybe 10 minutes? Then the steering column went in next. Plus making sure everything was securely plugged in at the buokhead connector. Then the flexible defroster ducts, radio antenna coaxial cable, and anything else that needed to be plugged in.
On that car, the windshield was not installed, so that made for a much more open and accessible environment to work in. It was also a bench seat column shift car, so no console mounting brackets to trip over, either.
Doing this car in the same assembly orientation as the assy plnt proved the viability of this approach, to us. In most cases, easier and less-involved than trying to do things as we might perceive as "normal" in the field. The engine, front frame/transmission were installed from the bottom, which meant NO issues with chipping the fresh paint on the inner fenders or having to install the hood, afterwards. Having a body-contact lift was necessary, which was in the shop.
Just some thoughts and experiences,
CBODY67
volksworld
Well-Known Member
on my 68 the main pia is the fact that the windshield needs to be removed as the screws that go through the body into the dash are buried under the rubber seal...pretty sure the 66 is the same deal
I've had a couple out. All the Mopar ones come out about the same, but the upper fasteners differ over the years and models. A few minutes with the FSM will give you the upper fasteners and what you need to remove. Hopefully, it doesn't involve removing the windshield like some B-bodies.
Once you have the upper fasteners figured out and removed, there are a couple bolts down under the kick panel. The lower mounts on your dash should be slotted, so just loosen the bolts and rotate the dash towards you. Now you can reach behind and unhook anything you couldn't get at from the bottom. With a helper, lift the dash off the bolts and slid it out. I just dropped the steering column down, but it may be easier to pull the column. You be the judge on that.
Once it's off, you'll want a stand. I made one from old bed frame. It's just 2 pieces, welded in a tee configuration with appropriate holes. The '53 dash had to have some bolts welded to the top, but you get the idea.
Here it's holding a '53 Chrysler dash
and the '70 dash. complete with messy table and sleeping Great Dane.
Similar threads
