Did you ever notice somethings quite not right?

Wow, well you are definitely in the "Active Mode" in this hobby. Good for you. Yeah, it's amazing the things you find when you start looking under things and peeling things back. Well, until I get corrected again, I am going to call your wheels, Mopar Road Wheels, (aka and generically speaking, Magnum 500 Wheels to Ford and GM). I'll call the other style of Pressed steel wheel with the 10 or so bell shaped holes around its perimeter and that uses a 5"dia. pot metal Center Cap, and painted in Argent Silver.., I'm going to call that a Rallye Wheel. Thanks, for sharing about your R/T. Again, It sure is beautiful!
 
Did you ever notice somethings quite not right?

That's exactly what I thought while looking at those rims. Thanks for sharing the story.
There's no car in the world I would trailer anywhere, that's sort of a mobile declaration of bankruptcy to me.
 
sixpkrt said:
You might be onto something there.
Click to expand...
a friend of mine had new tires put on his 32 ford street rod. the one rear tire was full of weights on the inside. I asked him what the deal was and also told him I thought his choice of rear tires didn't suit the car . told him they weren't tall enough. he agreed and had his tire guy replace the rear tires to a higher profile. the tire guy had found his half inch wrench he had been looking for. didn't need near as many weights this time. this is no bullshit story.
 
CBODY67 said:
Does the V-shape of the "roller skate" make for what Goodyear terms "ride disturbance" after sitting there for the winter? If so, how long does it take to act normal? Just curious.

CBODY67
Click to expand...
I've had a set of these casters or very similar for years. Mine are more bowed. Never had a problem with them distorting the tires. You'd be screwed in this situation without them! At least moving the car away from the wall was easy peasy!
Beautiful car BTW:thumbsup:

And we don't need no stinkin trailer queens:lol:
 
Update...got the flat fixed after trying to get in at 3 different places on New Years Eve. 3 to 4 hour waits everywhere, but the guy at Firestone let me cut in front of the line since I had the tire in my truck. Said it should be 30 minutes.
I was there for a little over an hour waiting for them to balance it and they had a hell of a time. At the end of the day, I still have 11 oz in weights on the rim to get the reading correct. At this point I was asked to come in their shop for advice.
I think it may be the tire. The tech pointed out the code on the tire indicated it was popped in '87 by showing me the last numbers on the inside wall. I'm not sure if that code is the actual repop date, but if that tire is 30 years old, so are the rest of them, and definitely time to be replaced.
RT flat6.jpg
RT flat5.jpg
RT flat4.jpg

I'm posting the pic with the code and the "new" weights.
Also had time to p/u the addition 2 dolly's and the car rolls a lot easier on these.
 
The dollys I got have a smooth curve the tire contacts, rather than just two main pressure points.

One day, I had a conversation with a Goodyear tire rep about what they term "ride disturbance" or what might be termed "balances, but circumference not round" situation due to how the unmounted tires were stored. Putting them in a rack, vertically, with only two support/contact areas on the tires to the rack, that can cause what appears to be an unbalanced situation when they are balanced perfectly.

This really is apparent with "Road Force" Balancing of the tire/wheel. When the "road force" situation came up in the 1990s, we had to purchase an electronic balancer that would do this. Some new tires were "out of spec" under GM specs. BTAIM

CBODY67
 
sixpkrt said:
Update...got the flat fixed after trying to get in at 3 different places on New Years Eve. 3 to 4 hour waits everywhere, but the guy at Firestone let me cut in front of the line since I had the tire in my truck. Said it should be 30 minutes.
I was there for a little over an hour waiting for them to balance it and they had a hell of a time. At the end of the day, I still have 11 oz in weights on the rim to get the reading correct. At this point I was asked to come in their shop for advice.
I think it may be the tire. The tech pointed out the code on the tire indicated it was popped in '87 by showing me the last numbers on the inside wall. I'm not sure if that code is the actual repop date, but if that tire is 30 years old, so are the rest of them, and definitely time to be replaced.
View attachment 160057 View attachment 160058 View attachment 160059
I'm posting the pic with the code and the "new" weights.
Also had time to p/u the addition 2 dolly's and the car rolls a lot easier on these.
Click to expand...

The date coding was changed in 2000. More likely that is a 1997 tire. Still old and needs to be replaced, and I'm a little surprised the tire shop didn't refuse to work on it.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11
 
I've said many times before to NEVER drive on tires that are more than 8 years old. The DOT says the same thing with all the research they have conducted on tire safety. In the desert, that time frame for tires is even less. A number of years ago, I had a left/rear tire that wasn't more than 5 years old self destruct on my 1978 NYB on the way to Carlisle on I-83. Luckily, I got the NYB slowed down and off the road without hurting anybody else or my NYB. The problem after I stopped was the spare was 30 years old and dry rotted. I reluctantly put that spare on and limped about 12 miles to a Mr.Tire and bought a new tire so I could get to Carlisle. I will NEVER drive any car ever again with tires more than 8 years old. There are better ways to die besides having a tire failure.

DSC03477.JPG
 
All I can say is I'm glad the flat happened when it was parked instead on having a blow out when driving. The outside of the tires don't show signs of any dry rot, but I guess in reality that's just 1/2 the real picture of what I have overlooked. I'll be checking my other cars now as well.
Pricing out new Polyglas tires on the web looks like they're around $300+/per tire.
 
There is a reason they don't sell bias tires on new anything. Take the Mustang wheels off and run some wooden spoke model T wheels and tires.
Bias tires are for stagnant Museum displays. Please don't ever drive on the highway near me or my family with those unsafe tires.
I believe that anyone running bias tires should have to sign their car properly to warn the rest of us, and stay off main roads.

Your car looks nice, don't take the chance bending it up with poor technology tires. Static display only.
 
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sixpkrt said:
All I can say is I'm glad the flat happened when it was parked instead on having a blow out when driving. The outside of the tires don't show signs of any dry rot, but I guess in reality that's just 1/2 the real picture of what I have overlooked. I'll be checking my other cars now as well.
Pricing out new Polyglas tires on the web looks like they're around $300+/per tire.
Click to expand...

Ouch that hurts the wallet.
 
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