disc brake conversion done

[crazyboutwagons]

The disc brake conversion has been completed on my 68 Plymouth wagon. I picked up the car today and drove home the brakes work fantastic. I went the 73 c-body route was the cheapest and easiest.will post better pics once I get them developed. my mechanic took pics of the install with a disposable camera.

 

[65sporty]

Looks good so far but I wont complain about more pic's

 

[jct]

 

[pmschmitt]

Looks great. I am also doing the 73 conversion and can't remeber how the caliper pads clips and pins go together ..those photos would be very helpful

 

[SF-66TC]

Looks Good Congrats!!

 

[crazyboutwagons]

My wife dropped off the disposable camera at Wal-Mart on Saturday will be back this Saturday I will post the rest of the pictures then. Drove it again today and brakes work great no more pedal to the floor to stop.

 

[SF-66TC]

The disc brake conversion has been completed on my 68 Plymouth wagon. I picked up the car today and drove home the brakes work fantastic. I went the 73 c-body route was the cheapest and easiest.will post better pics once I get them developed. my mechanic took pics of the install with a disposable camera.

If you get the chance you should think about changing both the sway bars center link and strut bar to sway bar bushings. Yours look pretty worn and are affecting how your car handles. Both are fairly easy to change and doesn't require more than removing the sway bar. To change the center sway bar bushings you will either need to purchase a link kit from PST or Rareparts (I'd suggest rare parts PN-18110 because they're 30% cheaper).

I got the MOOG sway bar end bushings. They're different than the OEM, but they work. Here's a photo of mine below. You can clearly see the difference between the OEM and reproductions.

BEFORE

AFTER

To change the strut rod to front crossmember bushings you'll need to remove the lower control arms which also means removing the tortion bars. And if you're going to do that you might as well tackle both the upper and lower control arm bushings. It's not really hard work, just time consuming. I just completed rebuilding my entire front end myself with no prior experience, just suggestions from fellas here on the forum. It was actually kinda fun and wouldn't mind doing it again so if there's anyone out here in the SF Bay Area that wants to do a complete rebuild I'd be happy to assist.

 

[commando1]

My wife dropped off the disposable camera at Wal-Mart on Saturday will be back this Saturday I will post the rest of the pictures then. Drove it again today and brakes work great no more pedal to the floor to stop.

WTF? People still do that?

 

[jct]

WTF? People still do that?

there is nothing wrong with film cameras. i got a kodak motormatic i enjoy(ed) the hell out of it. it just got pricey to develop the film and to find a local 1 hr place that still does it...

 

[crazyboutwagons]

that was the best option for me to get in progress pictures. I did not want to give the mechanic my digital camera as my main camera quit working and did not want to risk my backup. i got them on disc so I can download them to my laptop for storage.

 

[commando1]

At Walmart, the little old ladies in line of me in front of me still insist on writing a check.
DEBIT CARD, you old *****. Debit card.

 

[crazyboutwagons]

Here are the pictures as promised. sorry not many of them mechanic is better at mechanics than photography.

 

[crazyboutwagons]

last one.

 

[1BIGFISH68]

last one.[/QUOTE
I have a 68 Monaco, and want to do the conversion. Am I wrong to think that I will need all the same parts as you?
Would you mind posting parts an part numbers needed?

 

[crazyboutwagons]

all the parts I used I bought at Rock-Auto or Autozone. I just got all the parts for the donor car. the donor was a 1973 Plymouth Custom Suburban station wagon.
this is what I bought from Autozone
827964 caliper
827972 caliper
022375 rotor
353503 brake pads
Master cylinder was not usable(could not get it to bleed properly) so I bought a new one
don't know why but calipers were listed as left and right and we installed them that way.

the Rock-Auto parts I bought were the inner and outer wheel bearings, rubber brake lines. I cant find the receipt to give you the part numbers you can get them from their website.
I bought all the donor parts from CT'S AutoRanch inTexas. I got lucky as the lower control arms were like new the ball joints were still firm with no play. I did have to buy new dust boots got those from Summit Racing.

hope this info helps you. from what info I got here any Mopar 73 c-body will interchange.

 

[livininharrow]

calipers are left and right. if you mix them up the bleeder screws will be on the bottom instead of the top. no way to get the air out if on the bottom.

 

[1BIGFISH68]

Thank you very much!!!!

 

[bajajoaquin]

WTF? People still do that?

If 35mm film goes away completely, what will people use to hold their stash?

 

[chaparral2f]

So you used a '73 disc brake spindle? The more read the more confused I am. I am trying to replace my rotors on my '68 town and country and I have been told to use '66-72 drum spindles, someone else said to use '73-80 drum spindles. Not sure what I should be using. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Rene

 

[twostick]

73 disc spindle is the preferred one because the rotor is cheaper than the 69-72 one. The only difference between them is the bearing size. The calipers, caliper brackets, pads, hoses etc are all the same 69 thru 73.

Kevin