Both actually now that you mentioned itAre you talking about the nut on the rear end holding the yoke to the pinion shaft or the straps holding the u-joint to the yoke?
"till they are about to strip"wrist tighten till they're about to strip then back em off a 1/4 turn
start to strip is just as bad.
How do you know when they are at the point where they will strip if you go further.
Now thats just bad advise ........ He might take you seriously.....!!!! Torque specs are only effective on the tighten direction. Once you "back off" a fastener the torque load changes and is no longer effective.wrist tighten till they're about to strip then back em off a 1/4 turn
Now thats just bad advise ........ He might take you seriously.....!!!! Torque specs are only effective on the tighten direction. Once you "back off" a fastener the torque load changes and is no longer effective.
Not sure about the pinion nut but the u joint strap bolts are 25 LBS. You really should locate a FSM.
Thank you, you've been the most help with this problem so far. I really have no way of getting a factory service manual right now or I definitely would have done it already. The pinion nut is really bothering me, I'm going to pull it in a few minutes but I really wanna know some torque specs before I put it back on.Now thats just bad advise ........ He might take you seriously.....!!!! Torque specs are only effective on the tighten direction. Once you "back off" a fastener the torque load changes and is no longer effective.
Not sure about the pinion nut but the u joint strap bolts are 25 LBS. You really should locate a FSM.
Thank you, you've been the most help with this problem so far. I really have no way of getting a factory service manual right now or I definitely would have done it already. The pinion nut is really bothering me, I'm going to pull it in a few minutes but I really wanna know some torque specs before I put it back on.
How in depth of a tear down would it be? I have been trying to replace the pinion seal because I've had a leak. What kind of tools and such would I require? And if theres no other option how much do you think a shop would charge to do it?Okay - went out and looked at a 67 FSM - the drive pinion flange nut torque is 200 - 220 ft/lbs. Now, since no one else said it, (surprisingly), without an FSM and a few expensive special tools you do not want to touch that nut. If you do there's a few other things that should be done which basically require complete rear end tear-down so you can verify pre-load, backlash, etc.. If you should happen to find it loose you should be able to tighten it so you can drive it to a repair shop or get it home, but that's the only reason I'd do it. The torque spec for the driveshaft retainer bolts is listed at 170 - 200 inch/lbs which is 14 - 16.5 ft/lbs.
Mike
How in depth of a tear down would it be? I have been trying to replace the pinion seal because I've had a leak. QUOTE]
A leaking pinion seal usually indicates a worn pinion bearing, which would indicate additional worn parts. A rebuild requires several specialized tools, best left to a pro shop ....... Be ready to drop $500.00 plus.
If it's not leaking to badly, or if there are no strange noises coming from the diff then just keep it topped off with lube and drive it........