Dumb Question: Alternator Mounting

[Chicago Bluesmobile]

Dumb question, does it matter if the alternator ear is mounted inside or outside of the factory bracket?

Upgraded to a Powermaster, they’re supposed to be the same size, but the square back is noticeably larger.

Wouldn’t fit within the mounting bracket and block, but fits great on the outside of the bracket. All belts aligned and everything.

 

[CBODY67]

(Model year and engine in what car?)

 

[Chicago Bluesmobile]

1974 Dodge Monaco, 440.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

What matters is that the belts line up with the pulleys. That said, most all A/C dual-belt configurations had the front tab the alternator forward of the water pump bracket from around that time. early seventies big blocks.

 

[Chicago Bluesmobile]

Thanks @72RoadRunnerGTX. The belts line up and the alternator is grounded and kicking out 14.5 volts. Now I just have to figure out why it’s not getting to the battery lol.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Thanks @72RoadRunnerGTX. The belts line up and the alternator is grounded and kicking out 14.5 volts. Now I just have to figure out why it’s not getting to the battery lol.

Check your charging loop conductors. Start with each end. Are they nice and shiny? Are the lugs tight? Do you have AN ADEQUATE SIZED CHARGE LEAD OFF THAT ALTERNATOR? I run a 95A PowerMaster myself, and use #8AWG directly to my battery, run around the front of the engine compartment, fusible link (#12 AWG) at the battery. I disconnected that dinky little #12 wire Ma Par provided for the 30A alternator they originally installed at both ends. I beefed up my battery wire from the starter relay to the fusebus also to #8 AWG, as one should for the increased ampacity of the alternator, even though the battery itself can be treated as a large resisitive branch load on my bypass charge loop. By doing so, I also reduce the resistance of the conductor, which, with such low voltage as 12VDC, MATTERS QUITE A LOT. I run this through a rubber grommeted hole in the firewall, avoiding the bulkhead connection, which also has been disconnected at both of it's ends.

Does your ammeter still work? If it's still in your charge loop, check it's terminals. I HATE that damned series charging circuit, but if you like it and plan to keep it, then by all means check every part of it. Is your fusible link at the bulkhead still good? Et cetera ad absurdum, you need to check some old wires I reckon.