evans waterless coolant

[The Mechanic]

Hello to all c-body folks,
I am just sending this out there to the general public to see if anyone has first hand knowledge on this waterless coolant.... does it work? is it worth the extra cost? how many times did you have to flush out your system?? (aka evans flush) I am thinking about filling my system with it since I have a new radiator going in, and an engine that was only ran on the dyno then drained, so I definitely should only need to run the flush through it once, then fill with the actual coolant. Please let me know what you guys think!!

Thanks

 

[CBODY67]

Jay Leno uses it in his vehicles. I considered it, but balked at the price and such. For somebody with a fleet and a good local supplier, it might save money after the initial installations.

 

[73Coupe]

Never heard of this....Is it a dry cleaning chemical or something?

I have a buddy with a Corvair, it also uses waterless coolant.

 

[Xcudame]

Water cools better! Water is the liquid of life! The waterless coolant is flammable, runs at a lower pressure (+7 psi instead of 15 or 16 psi) and will actually make your engine run at a higher operating temperature. Stick with water and a little anti-freeze.

 

[OldWarHorse300]

Been in use 6-7 years, zero problem...

 

[edbods]

Water cools better! Water is the liquid of life! The waterless coolant is flammable, runs at a lower pressure (+7 psi instead of 15 or 16 psi) and will actually make your engine run at a higher operating temperature. Stick with water and a little anti-freeze.

honestly this kinda sounds like the FUD around HC12/hydrocarbon refrigerants. There was a pretty big scare campaign in the early 00s by one of the aussie HVAC associations around it, and they tried to scare people off it by showing videos of them going out of their way to ignite the refrigerant. They really didn't want regular people filling up their car AC with cheap, effective refrigerants.

Anyway, the evans stuff does work. But it's not cheap at all, and for the average joe, demineralised water + antifreeze/antiboil works perfectly fine, especially if you replace it at whatever intervals it calls for.

 

[73Coupe]

EVANS COLLECTORS CHOICE WATERLESS COOLANT

$55 / gal - coolant x 3 (assume 2 gallons will almost fill the engine, plus need some extra)

$35 / gal - prep fluid x 2

$32 - refractometer (to test for water)

= $267 n.i.c. shipping & taxes

 

[edbods]

Yeah...looks like something that would be suited for someone like Jay Leno who has a humongous car collection, and can't possibly drive every single car all the time, so maintenance intervals would be stretched out or more critical since it's not good for cars to sit unused for very long periods. And also he has a shitload of cash.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Never heard of this....Is it a dry cleaning chemical or something?

I have a buddy with a Corvair, it also uses waterless coolant.

Stuff's been around some years now actually. Esta MUY caro! No me gusto. If I ran a new engine and had NO reason to expect breaking any seal on it for at least 100K miles, I'd think about using the stuff, maybe. I'm quite happy with Zerex Original Green w what I have now though all the same.

 

[73Coupe]

Stuff's been around some years now actually. Esta MUY caro! No me gusto. If I ran a new engine and had NO reason to expect breaking any seal on it for at least 100K miles, I'd think about using the stuff, maybe. I'm quite happy with Zerex Original Green w what I have now though all the same.

Claro que sí, joder!

 

[Andrew Ryan]

Hello to all c-body folks,
I am just sending this out there to the general public to see if anyone has first hand knowledge on this waterless coolant.... does it work? is it worth the extra cost? how many times did you have to flush out your system?? (aka evans flush) I am thinking about filling my system with it since I have a new radiator going in, and an engine that was only ran on the dyno then drained, so I definitely should only need to run the flush through it once, then fill with the actual coolant. Please let me know what you guys think!!

Thanks

I’ve been running it for about 5 yrs. Really good product. Cons- cost. Pros - no corrosion or scale build up. Engine runs hotter so more efficiently. The product boils somewhere around 300 degrees so at normal operating temp, you can take the radiator cap off without danger. Since it doesn’t boil at normal operating temp, there’s no pressure on the entire cooling system including soft parts (hoses) so there’s no danger of blowing a hose.

I installed Evans because Southern California summer temps would make me subject to boil overs occasionally even with a 3 core radiator, electric fan and a radiator shroud. Ever since switching to Evans, I’ve never had a problem even cruising at idle in the summer.

 

[The Mechanic]

I’ve been running it for about 5 yrs. Really good product. Cons- cost. Pros - no corrosion or scale build up. Engine runs hotter so more efficiently. The product boils somewhere around 300 degrees so at normal operating temp, you can take the radiator cap off without danger. Since it doesn’t boil at normal operating temp, there’s no pressure on the entire cooling system including soft parts (hoses) so there’s no danger of blowing a hose.

I installed Evans because Southern California summer temps would make me subject to boil overs occasionally even with a 3 core radiator, electric fan and a radiator shroud. Ever since switching to Evans, I’ve never had a problem even cruising at idle in the summer.

Thanks to everyone who responded. This site is a great place to bounce ideas off of other car guys!

This question is to Andrew Ryan..... you mention your car runs at a higher temperature, do you know what that temperature actual is? I was always under the assumption that the cooler your engine ran the better, if your running just a little hotter, that is one thing, but if your running 20-30 degrees hotter that is another. I have been driving these old mopars for 30 years and it seems like they always ran hot and seemed to boil over often, I now have a very expensive engine and don't want to take the risk of overheating and doing damage, but even though it may not boil over with the Evans coolant, is the engine getting too hot in those certain situations, like heavy traffic on a hot day? Just trying to educate myself!

 

[Big_John]

Thanks to everyone who responded. This site is a great place to bounce ideas off of other car guys!

This question is to Andrew Ryan..... you mention your car runs at a higher temperature, do you know what that temperature actual is? I was always under the assumption that the cooler your engine ran the better, if your running just a little hotter, that is one thing, but if your running 20-30 degrees hotter that is another. I have been driving these old mopars for 30 years and it seems like they always ran hot and seemed to boil over often, I now have a very expensive engine and don't want to take the risk of overheating and doing damage, but even though it may not boil over with the Evans coolant, is the engine getting too hot in those certain situations, like heavy traffic on a hot day? Just trying to educate myself!

I have no experience with the Evans coolant. I have read a little about it and as I understand it, the coolant has a much higher boiling point, but it doesn't have the same ability to absorb heat like water or water/antifreeze mix, so the engine can end up running hotter. How much hotter I don't know, but I can't help but think that if you have an engine that tends to run hot anyway, this isn't going to help. I did find a couple of websites mentioning an increase of cylinder head temperature of over 100°.

On the other end, it takes longer to warm up, which makes sense because it's not absorbing heat as well. I even read of it getting thick at cold temperatures, although I didn't see how cold.

I've also read that where the stuff does excel is in old unpressurized systems. As you know water has a higher boiling point under pressure, so a coolant that has a higher boiling point makes some sense.

It's noteworthy that a lot of what is available to read on Evans is either from their website or is from some Evans sponsored source. I had to go a few pages deep in a Google search to find some objective comments on its use. Here's two websites that I read that seem to spell it out well. 10 Evans Waterless Coolant Problems (Troubleshooting Guide) and 17 Waterless Coolant Pros and Cons This web site is more technical, but it is from a competitor. No-Rosion Products Technical Questions and Answers

So, after what I read, IMHO, if you are worried about overheating the engine, this isn't the stuff to use. Since there seems to be increased cylinder head temperature, that could lead to needing a higher octane fuel to avoid knocking. With the gas we have to run now, I'd say that's another reason not to use it.

 

[Andrew Ryan]

Thanks to everyone who responded. This site is a great place to bounce ideas off of other car guys!

This question is to Andrew Ryan..... you mention your car runs at a higher temperature, do you know what that temperature actual is? I was always under the assumption that the cooler your engine ran the better, if your running just a little hotter, that is one thing, but if your running 20-30 degrees hotter that is another. I have been driving these old mopars for 30 years and it seems like they always ran hot and seemed to boil over often, I now have a very expensive engine and don't want to take the risk of overheating and doing damage, but even though it may not boil over with the Evans coolant, is the engine getting too hot in those certain situations, like heavy traffic on a hot day? Just trying to educate myself!

I forget the specs but something like 5% - 10% hotter. Sitting still on a hot day I easily exceed 220 but that’s the whole point since the boiling temp of Evans is 375 you don’t boil over. It’s not the temp that can harm your engine it’s the runaway that happens when you lose coolant.

Anyway, reading all the replies I see there are doubters and I’m not an evangelist, I just happen to have some experience with it. My primary reason for switching was to stop any further engine block corrosion and any scale build up in the radiator. My car (maybe like many others) sits for long periods of time. I also switched over to silicon brake fluid for the same reason it preserves the brake system and I’m hoping over time preserving those two systems is an investment in having a functional driver as it approaches 60 yrs old and many yrs beyond that.

 

[The Mechanic]

Thanks for sharing your experience, I was looking for someone who had first hand experience with this type of coolant. The main reason I am considering going an alternate route was I have a brand new radiator, and an engine that was broke in and tuned on a dyno, then drained completely, so I was thinking for the initial start up I could fill the system with the flush, then drain and fill with the coolant knowing that I would have gotten all of the water out of the system for sure. Then with my past experience of boiling over, this coolant would prevent that. I have a ton of money in this motor and need to make sure over heating does not occur! I guess I have a decision to make! Thanks again to all who chimed in on this topic!

 

[Xcudame]

Last I looked, glycol is indeed flammable! And it's proven to make your engine run 20 to 30 degrees hotter. Be sure to run some kind of oxide inhibitor if you have any aluminum parts (cylinder heads, water pump, water pump housing, etc) because it corrodes that too! And it is a fact that it is it's very slippery, so when you drip some on the pavement on the hot asphalt at a stop light or stop sigh, don't get made when the motorcycle behind you zips by and flips you the bird!