Flaming River U-joint Coupler Issues

[Chrysler]

Hi, I'm trying to install Flaming River u-joints in place of the 'biscuit' and lower slip joint.

The top is 3/4" x 36 spline
and the lower is 5/8" 36 spline

Top fits fine,
but I'll be damned if the lower ujoint will slip onto the splines, I've confirmed it is 36 splines and measured with my digital calipers and it's close but should fit, I tried to file down some of the ridges and that seemed to help along with a steeper taper on the ujoint. I ended up getting mad and beat the damn thing on about 1/4" but now its completely gooned. I cut it off and now I'm at square one. It seems to be an interference fit. Has anyone successfully done this or have another option? Thanks

 

[saylor]

I know there is a notch in the gear teeth, like one with different spacing, to line it up.

and I know it took 3 people when I did it with the stock joint. I was in the car floorboard holding the loose steering column, one guy was holding the niblet onto the gearbox gear, and the third guy had a wood block and hammer to hammer the niblet down onto the steering gear.

it sucked out loud.

 

[C Body Bob]

You can see the spaced spline in your top pic. I always mark mine with a straight edge to make sure my steering wheel is not off when reassembled. They make 2 different kinds. A power steer & a manual steer. Don't know if the splines are the same. The length is not. It should go on with just a little tapping. Don't wack it. Take a medium coarse file & try to clean up the splines. Damaged splines will prevent it from going on.

 

[C Body Bob]

Another thing. Your splines look dirty. Clean them good. That grit is not helping. Brake cleaner

 

[Chrysler]

Thanks for the replies. On closer inspection it appears the splines on the steering box aren't 'V' shaped but rather 'U' shaped. That in conjunction with the tight tolerance are making it impossible. The groove doesn't matter in this case because the splines will fill it. So I guess I need to order another u-joint and spend some time with a triangle shaped file.

 

[Senator Leahy]

I installed these on my car. I believe Flaming River sell Mopar specific steering u-joints. Mine went in easy and fast. I bought what you got there. Clean up those splines a little bit she should slip on there

 

[C Body Bob]

I have installed several of these. They can be a pain, but never had one that would not go on. By the way these are not good on your steering column bearing. The rubber biscuit & the slip coupler are meant to dampen the shock through the column. No problem if is a weekend cruiser or race car

 

[Chrysler]

I installed these on my car. I believe Flaming River sell Mopar specific steering u-joints. Mine went in easy and fast. I bought what you got there. Clean up those splines a little bit she should slip on there

Can you post a picture of your setup? I'm also wondering if you had any issues being that the oem setup is designed to extend and retract. Thanks!

 

[Senator Leahy]

My photos get all weird cuz I only have my smartphone. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. I don't have the actual Mopar steering u joints from flaming river, I just have the 2 u joints, 3/4" 36spline and 5/8" 36spline with the DD bar that attaches the two. I was trying to find my invoice for them so I could confirm the u joint sizes. I will try to post a pic for you today or tonight when I get off work

 

[Senator Leahy]

FR1755 is the part number you should need to fit the Chrysler steering gear box. That was the problem I ran into

 

[saylor]

steering column bearing?

wth?

rly?

 

[C Body Bob]

steering column bearing?

wth?

rly?

yea there is a small sealed bearing near the top. Held in by two agrivating snap rings. One for the housing then another for the bearing. Pretty durable bearings. On the cars I have installed the U joints on when you hit a pot hole or something you could feel the shock through the steering wheel. Can't be good on an already aged bearing. C body's don't get beat on as bad as other models so it's probably all good. Happy steering

 

[C Body Bob]

Another thing. You can rebuild the original coupler. Drill/tab a hole for a zerk fitting. Then you can grease it as needed. Just make sure you have room for the fitting as you turn the steering.

 

[Senator Leahy]

I live in California, our roads are fu****. I hardly feel a thing in the steering wheel when I hit a bump or go over train tracks with the u joints. I'm sure if you were building a hot rod or had some custom set up you'd want some cushion between the road and the steering but for a cruiser that hardly sees over 60 mph like mine I'm stoked I switched to the u joints.

 

[C Body Bob]

I mainly do it for header clearance or custom steering columns. I do get a different feel through the wheel. Not a ton, just s suttle amount.

 

[Senator Leahy]

Yeah the header clearance is awesome. The heat from the headers is what fried the rubber biscuit in mine. I don't know if I'll ever put hi po headers on mine. Maybe one day

 

[C Body Bob]

Yep when you put a big block in A body's & some B's you have to get creative with the steering shaft. I had the same problem. The 440 would clear, but the stock ex manifolds where right on top & cooked it. The FR joint solved that. On to the next problem LoL

 

[Senator Leahy]

Got 99 problems but the c body ain't one.

Trying to upload that picture from my phone for you Chrysler but it's not working

 

[Senator Leahy]

 

[tallhair]

You can see the spaced spline in your top pic. I always mark mine with a straight edge to make sure my steering wheel is not off when reassembled. They make 2 different kinds. A power steer & a manual steer. Don't know if the splines are the same. The length is not. It should go on with just a little tapping. Don't wack it. Take a medium coarse file & try to clean up the splines. Damaged splines will prevent it from going on.

If memory serves there are two diff spline diameters on the steering sectors but I cannot recall if that's for manual only or manual and power