Fuel pump replacement

[Edison]

Hey everyone! Hope you guys are well. I haven't been around much because my Newport has been out of service and I finally made some time to figure out what is going on. Been too busy working on everyone's car BUT mine.

Looks like I'm not getting fuel. First I checked for spark and I was getting spark. I checked it by just pulling a wire and plugging a dummy plug into it and watching it arc against the body. So today I picked up some starting spray and it fired up and ran for a second until the spray was burnt up. I had a shop replace the fuel lines not long ago (the feed line rotted out while I was driving so I had to have a shop pick it up). It ran for a while perfect but the week after the 4th of July it started this again so I am assuming the fuel pump.

They look to be priced VERY affordable, and I know the pump is located just below the alternator. I have a 66 with 383. My question is the pump accessible easily from the engine bay or is it easier on the 383 to put the car in the air and go at it that way?

Thanks for any tips you guys have! Hope to be back soon.

 

[commando1]

Welcome back and absolutely put it up in the air. It will knock 75% off of the replacement time and aggrevation

 

[Edison]

Thanks! Looks like it is just bolted into the block with two bolts, right? Looking at pics I'm assuming you undo the two lines going into it, mark them as to which goes where (but it looks like they use two different connections so might be dummy proof) and then undo two bolts that connect it to the block. Does the mechanical pump work by having the lever coming out the back of the pump tap against the cam or something and then drawing fuel that way (via mechanical vacuum or something)?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m3672/overview/make/dodge

 

[Edison]

One last question. Is the cylinder next to the pump the fuel filter? I'm assuming so and I would be wise to replace both at the same time surely.

 

[detmatt]

Yes that cylinder is the filter and should be replaced at the same time and don't cheap out on it! The pump runs off the cam but has a pushrod that needs to be pushed up as you're inserting the arm of the pump in the block. Sometimes tricky but usually not.

 

[detmatt]

Sounds like you need the factory service manual.

 

[Edison]

Sounds like you need the factory service manual.

Yep I sure do. I was going to buy a service manual when I buy the pump and filter. This is my first car with a mechanical pump, so I apologize for all the questions. If it was one of my other cars, I'd had been done by now as I've replaced tons of those

 

[commando1]

Yes, always replace the fuel filter if you haven't done so.
When you put in the new pump, the arm sticking out sits on top of a cam lobe and you then press down on the pump and snug it in and up up against the block to remount it. Very simple.

 

[commando1]

OOps. Matt beat me to it. LOL

 

[53ryder]

I just replaced the fuel pump on my '67 Monaco 500 (383). There is a plug, with a hex head, just above the fuel pump. Take off the plug and the push rod should drop out. When it comes time to put in the new fuel pump remove that push rod or it'll be in the way and you'll never get the pump in place. Grease the push rod, which will hold it place and shove it back into the hole. I used a screwdriver to gently push in as far as it would go. Then I quickly installed the new fuel pump and got everything tightened down. And 'bingo'! Hope this helps!

Of course your model year may be different!

Glenn

 

[detmatt]

I haven't had to go through the trouble of pulling the rod just to replace the pump, fast fingers are all you need. It wouldn't hurt to pull the rod to check its condition and measure it for length and check it against the factory spec.

 

[53ryder]

Now that I've done it once I'd be willing to try 'fast fingers', all the while knowing if I was too slow to pull the push rod.

Glenn

 

[commando1]

Throw some gunky grease on it. It slows it down.

 

[Edison]

Would you guy think its worth the effort to replace the push rod while I'm doing all this? I bought my pump and filter already, and sprayed all the fittings I could reach with PB Blaster to make sure they come off with ease.

 

[Edison]

I have my new fuel pump on, but I'm kind of concerned about it. I see the push rod in there, and I felt the hex key. The push rod didn't fall out of the block when I took the pump off. How does the rod work? I was expecting the rod to sit on and tap the end of the top side of the plunger on the pump. But with the way I see the rod in the block and the way the pump went in, I can't imagine how that would work. If I had x ray vision, I would expect to see the plunger riding on top of the rod the way it is now.

Am I making sense to anyone?

 

[detmatt]

The pushrod won't come out unless you remove plug in the block below the pump. The rod rides on top of the lever of the pump.

 

[bluefury361]

With the pump removed the push rod normally, but not always, slides down but not out of it's bore. A little bearing grease applied to the rod will hold it in place once you slide it back up with your finger. Then install the pump.

I have never seen a fuel pump push rod wear out.

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

You're a lucky man Will. I've replaced 2 on my toyz and helped a car-bud replace 1 more in hiz 300 '63 Silver Addition when he got stranded in the middle of the Ambassador Bride trying to get into Windsor several yearz ago. With me that little push rod iz at the top of the list when ever I invest in any new to me RB Car. OH and Edison, Don't settle for those Haine's or Chillson toilet paper copies of the real deal. Get on eval-bay and find and pop for the original CHRYSLER FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL. WHEN YOU BUY RIGHT THE FIRST TIME YOU DON'T HAVE TO SPEND TWICE, Jer

 

[Edison]

Thanks guys. I'll try again tomorrow. 53ryder gave some great advice, but without knowing how it all looked once apart I was confused as to what to expect.

I was expecting the pushrod to be sitting on top of the lever and to literally fall out there. I felt around and it seems the hex bolt is beneath the opening where the lever fits into the block. To get the push rod back on top of the pump lever do I HAVE to take the hex bolt off or can I reach in with my fingers and push it up? That's what I gather from Bluefury361 but I thought basically the only way to move the push rod to take it out with the hex plug off and put it back in.

That's where I was confused ahead of time. I though the push rod basically went up and down like when you hold a pencil in between your thumb and first finger and move it to make it look like rubber when we were kids. lol Instead it looks like it goes in and out in a diagonal patch to tap the lever?

Sorry for so many questions, I am getting a manual but I want to get the car back on the road ASAP and am trying to do it before it would arrive in the mail. I got rear ended in my Civic and am down to one car besides the Chrysler, and need two operational vehicles. My GF delivers pizza so to keep one of us covered, we need three running cars for when one of ours breaks.

 

[1978 NYB]

Yep I sure do. I was going to buy a service manual when I buy the pump and filter. This is my first car with a mechanical pump, so I apologize for all the questions. If it was one of my other cars, I'd had been done by now as I've replaced tons of those

Don't buy a Chilton manual....those are junk.

Go on EBay and buy the Factory Service Manual and the Parts Manual. They are cheap and will be the best investment that you'll make.

You can get them on CD at this place. I have both paper and CD manuals.

http://www.autobooksbishko.com/search.cgi?year=1966&make=Chrysler&category=All