Fuse box diagram

hholtkamp1227

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I've been searching for a fuse box diagram for my 76 New Yorker Brougham, without any luck so far. Clock, cig lighter, and power antenna are not working. Can anyone help me?
Thank you,
HH
 
When the fuse block is found (seems like it screws-down from its "hiding place"?), each of the fuses should be labelled as to what they are and their amp rating.

Clock and cig lighter will both be "direct feeds", which means they are on all of the time, not "switched", which are on only when the ign switch is "on". The power antenna is probably switched, as it is only needed when the radio is on, I suspect.

Power antenna mechanisms can fail on their own, though, so making sure that fuse has not failed is important and then that the antenna mechanism gets voltage to operate. In many cases, the power to the unit is fine, just that the mast's internal items have separated.

The heating elements in the cig lighter can fail with use, by observation. Getting clogged with tobacco, for example, from lighting many smokes. If that cig lighter is used as a power source for some other devices, it might well be that the electrical interface in the housing does not match-up with the item being inserted into it. I discovered that there can be a difference between a "cigarette lighter" and a "Power port" . . . both look the same but take a different plug-in plug.

Electric clocks, the non-quartz movement versions, can just stop working with age. Usually, the combination of internal oil getting gummy and the contact points getting corroded with time. Similar to ignition contact points, cleaning them can make them operational again. Plus some new light oil for the mechanism. NOT "transistorized" or "electronic" like later versions were.

I wanted to mention these things to ensure you were aware of them, for good measure. No more, no less.

Find the fuse block and get it down to where you can look at the fuses. Sometimes, the old glass fuses might look good, but could have issues in their ends (which could not be seen internally). A simple test light could indicate if they are good. As mentioned, each should be labeled as to function and amperage.

As the 1978 C-body began life in the 1974 model year, you might find some information at www.mymopar.com in the Chrysler MasterTech downloads and also possibly at www.hamtramck-historical.com, with their "Library" section for 1974 Chrysler vehicles, in the "Data Book/Order Guides" sections. In the MasterTech segments, look for "New for 1974" titles.

Take care,
CBODY67
 
Page 61 of your owner's manual...Do your brake lights come on? They are on the same fuse.

Your fuse panel is drivers side between the steering column and the left side of the car. Just look up...it's right there.

Cavity 6 20 Amp- Clock, Stop, Dome, Aft Dome & Glove box, Map & CLt, Time delay relay for Ign Sw Lt & Key Buzzer.
 
When the fuse block is found (seems like it screws-down from its "hiding place"?), each of the fuses should be labelled as to what they are and their amp rating.

Clock and cig lighter will both be "direct feeds", which means they are on all of the time, not "switched", which are on only when the ign switch is "on". The power antenna is probably switched, as it is only needed when the radio is on, I suspect.

Power antenna mechanisms can fail on their own, though, so making sure that fuse has not failed is important and then that the antenna mechanism gets voltage to operate. In many cases, the power to the unit is fine, just that the mast's internal items have separated.

The heating elements in the cig lighter can fail with use, by observation. Getting clogged with tobacco, for example, from lighting many smokes. If that cig lighter is used as a power source for some other devices, it might well be that the electrical interface in the housing does not match-up with the item being inserted into it. I discovered that there can be a difference between a "cigarette lighter" and a "Power port" . . . both look the same but take a different plug-in plug.

Electric clocks, the non-quartz movement versions, can just stop working with age. Usually, the combination of internal oil getting gummy and the contact points getting corroded with time. Similar to ignition contact points, cleaning them can make them operational again. Plus some new light oil for the mechanism. NOT "transistorized" or "electronic" like later versions were.

I wanted to mention these things to ensure you were aware of them, for good measure. No more, no less.

Find the fuse block and get it down to where you can look at the fuses. Sometimes, the old glass fuses might look good, but could have issues in their ends (which could not be seen internally). A simple test light could indicate if they are good. As mentioned, each should be labeled as to function and amperage.

As the 1978 C-body began life in the 1974 model year, you might find some information at www.mymopar.com in the Chrysler MasterTech downloads and also possibly at www.hamtramck-historical.com, with their "Library" section for 1974 Chrysler vehicles, in the "Data Book/Order Guides" sections. In the MasterTech segments, look for "New for 1974" titles.

Take care,
CBODY67
Wow! Thank you so much for the information, and for being so generous with your time. Henry Holtkamp
 
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