Give me a break, I mean brake!!!!!!

robndi43

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Okay, I'm picking brains again, so I hope I've come to the right place!!!!

I want to upgrade the brakes on my '61 Newport coupe. I have a disc set up from a '73 New Yorker that I want to use. I also want to go with a modern dual brake booster and master cylinder. I know I'll need some type of proportioning valve, but not sure how all that works and what I need to get a donor part from for that.

I've searched for help, but haven't ran across anything yet. Is there a site for info on this? I need it drawn out for a third grader on the booster, porpotioning valve part of it.

Hope I don't upset the purists, but I'm planning on a lot of cross country driving and, from a childhood experience, I don't trust these single line brakes.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!!!!
 
With the 61 suspension setup the lower control arm has the bottom ball joint screw into it. Unfortunately the 73 spindles have a ball joint bolt to them making this setup incompatible with your car. But never fear, there is hope, with the later C-bodies the 74 to 79 formals have a similar setup with the ball joint in the lower control arm. So the spindle assy out of these can work, the only question will be if the pin diameter is right, also check the spindle height too. If the formal units are too big and wont work then you could check out a Dodge Diplomat or similar because these vehicles also carry the same type of setup.
 
I would just Scarebird.com the brakes that way you will have calipers and pads of every auto parts shelf across the country (90s dodge ram). For the proportioning valve just get a adjustable one $40-50 Jegs, Mancini racing, Summit, finding OE for a 61 will be a waste of time if they exist, and were never disc brakes on these cars in 61 so how effective would it be. Booster and dual master I am not much help on, there are people more familiar with these bellows cars. As Gary said if a formal spindle fits that is a cheaper than 73 spindle and more readily available pads and calipers than 73 also.
 
Plumbing the master will be fun. The rear chamber (Large one) on the master is for the front brakes. The forward chamber (Small one) is for the rears. For the fronts run a line with a "Tee". For the rears install the adjustable valve in line. Bleed the brakes with the valve full open, then close half way and drive on road with enough room to make some panic stops. Close valve until rear brakes just start to not lock up when applied.
 
Make fronts lock first, if rears lock first car will come around on you and snap back when released, fronts will just plow and gain steer back when released.
 
Hope I don't upset the purists, but I'm planning on a lot of cross country driving and, from a childhood experience, I don't trust these single line brakes.
I'm no purist, and these mods that your doing are great, but I would be a little upset if you dumped the cool pushbutton trans, and hacked a 4 speed into it. I know you mentioned in an earlier post your dad had one with a manual trans.
Your car is in way to good of shape for that!
 
I'm no purist, and these mods that your doing are great, but I would be a little upset if you dumped the cool pushbutton trans, and hacked a 4 speed into it. I know you mentioned in an earlier post your dad had one with a manual trans.
Your car is in way to good of shape for that!


It's become way to complicated of a swap to do and it didn't make the budget cut.
I didn't have a 4 speed, it was a rusty '62 Chrysler, non letter, 300 donor car equipped with a 3 speed manual complete with block off plate for the push button. I hadn't planned to "hack" it in, but when I finished I planned for it to look factory installed, just like the one I learned to drive in so many years ago. The only thing i was regretting to have to do was change the tranny tunnel to accommodate the shifter. I was planning to keep all the original parts so one day I could put it back like it was.
I have since reconsidered and decided I didn't want to go there after all.
I appreciate the input and agree that it wouldn't be appropriate to butcher this car. It's a really solid example for this year.
 
With the 61 suspension setup the lower control arm has the bottom ball joint screw into it. Unfortunately the 73 spindles have a ball joint bolt to them making this setup incompatible with your car. But never fear, there is hope, with the later C-bodies the 74 to 79 formals have a similar setup with the ball joint in the lower control arm. So the spindle assy out of these can work, the only question will be if the pin diameter is right, also check the spindle height too. If the formal units are too big and wont work then you could check out a Dodge Diplomat or similar because these vehicles also carry the same type of setup.

Disc Brake Conversion to 1961 Chrysler 300

With the 61 suspension setup the lower control arm has the bottom ball joint screw into it. Unfortunately the 73 spindles have a ball joint bolt to them making this setup incompatible with your car. But never fear, there is hope, with the later C-bodies the 74 to 79 formals have a similar setup with the ball joint in the lower control arm. So the spindle assy out of these can work, the only question will be if the pin diameter is right, also check the spindle height too. If the formal units are too big and wont work then you could check out a Dodge Diplomat or similar because these vehicles also carry the same type of setup.
 
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