Gluing floorpans
- Thread starter myskin
- Start date
Look for "structural adhesive" in the 3M automotive products catalog. Same thing used on modern cars to glue the roof center panels to the outer body areas.
Might ad a few sheet metal screws to ensure the location of the new panel stays put as the adhesive cures. Or possibly a pop rivet of so? Of course, probably need to grind the metal to "clean metal" on both pieces to be bonded.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Might ad a few sheet metal screws to ensure the location of the new panel stays put as the adhesive cures. Or possibly a pop rivet of so? Of course, probably need to grind the metal to "clean metal" on both pieces to be bonded.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Get some good advice at a professional autobody supplier. There are literally 50 different ones to choose from
Darter6
Active Member
A friend has owned a body shop for 40 years. 3M makes something called Panel Bond.
He has been using it for years. Very strong hold just like weld.Showed me as a test bonding sheet metal scraps.
Destroyed the metal trying to break the bond .
My three 67 Polaras
Member
Rather than grinding rivet heads if a flush installation is desired, countersink cutters and countersunk rivets are available from McMister Carr.
McMaster-Carr (countersink cutters-make sure the degree angle matches the rivets you are using)
McMaster-Carr (120 degree countersunk rivets)
Some body shops use TEK screws (self-tappers) to hold the panels together while assembling with the 3M panel bond. My rusted in half 2008 Accord was rebuilt that way, replacing both the outer rockers and even an inner rocker on one side with 3M panel bond and self-tappers. Preparation on the parent metal included sandblasting. The body man ground the heads off the self tappers using a miniature hand held belt sander once the panel bond had cured. There have been no problems in 45,000 miles/3 winters/and some country rode driving. What I really like is water can't get in between the two.
McMaster-Carr (countersink cutters-make sure the degree angle matches the rivets you are using)
McMaster-Carr (120 degree countersunk rivets)
Some body shops use TEK screws (self-tappers) to hold the panels together while assembling with the 3M panel bond. My rusted in half 2008 Accord was rebuilt that way, replacing both the outer rockers and even an inner rocker on one side with 3M panel bond and self-tappers. Preparation on the parent metal included sandblasting. The body man ground the heads off the self tappers using a miniature hand held belt sander once the panel bond had cured. There have been no problems in 45,000 miles/3 winters/and some country rode driving. What I really like is water can't get in between the two.
Thanks.
As you can see I’ve spot welded the passenger front pan to the sub frame. But, the trans tunnel is weak and too complex to refabricate for my limited abilities- this is a bucket seat center console car. So I want to bond to the tunnel in the hope it’ll add strength. While there’s less rust on the driver’s side it’s also more complex. The rear driver’s side is clean. Haven’t ground down the welds yet. But, after I do I’ll coat the seams with something. (Panelweld?)
I thought of that. But, ensuring the locations of the console mounts (which are still solid) made me decide to try this route
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