headers for 1974 Plymouth Furo Sport Suburban with 400 c.i. engine

[carlv12]

Hello,
my name is Carlos, I was born in Stuttgart (Germany) = where Mercedes, Porsche and Bosch come from and I live in Valencia (Spain). I am a car fanatic. My question for you, the experts is the following: I want to upgrade my 1974 Plymouth Fury Sport Suburban with 400 c.i. engine and A/C with stainless steel headers, because I alreay have headers fitted in my 2004 Viper, 1972 El Camino, 1969 Corvette Stingray, etc. and they make a huge sound difference together with for example Flowmaster 40 Series exhaust.

I have found Hooker 5113 HKR, but with suffix HB, HJ, HH etc, but I must be sure which part number will fit and if I will have to modify parts due to the steering box or other parts.

Please tell me your experience and opinions.

Thank you and best regards from sunny Valencia

Carlos

 

[Boydsdodge]

TTI exhaust if that's how you want to go.

 

[carlv12]

Unfortunately the TTI website does NOT list any header for 1974 C-body, so who knows more details?

Thank you

Regards

Carlos

 

[polara71]

Hello,
my name is Carlos, I was born in Stuttgart (Germany) = where Mercedes, Porsche and Bosch come from and I live in Valencia (Spain). I am a car fanatic. My question for you, the experts is the following: I want to upgrade my 1974 Plymouth Fury Sport Suburban with 400 c.i. engine and A/C with stainless steel headers, because I alreay have headers fitted in my 2004 Viper, 1972 El Camino, 1969 Corvette Stingray, etc. and they make a huge sound difference together with for example Flowmaster 40 Series exhaust.

I have found Hooker 5113 HKR, but with suffix HB, HJ, HH etc, but I must be sure which part number will fit and if I will have to modify parts due to the steering box or other parts.

Please tell me your experience and opinions.

Thank you and best regards from sunny Valencia

Carlos

View attachment 718500

Just a small voice of experience. A million years ago I dropped a dated 1971 400HP engine in my 71 Polara 4 dr sedan. I was able to purchase off the shelf and install Hooker headers ( from Eastern Speed Shop ) without issue, none.
The leaks and burnt starters were worth the trouble for about a year but damn it sounded great.

 

[CBODY67]

For research purposes, you might network with the www.BBTR.de people. Even going to their event to have a look at their cars and see what is different from what you have, as to space and clearances. That can give you the knowledge to make a more-informed decision.

Back in the middle 1960s, having steel tube headers on a car was a signal that the car's owner was "serious" about going fast and quick with the car. Usually drag racing style, only. In those times, it was generally accepted that headers were worth about 30 horsepower or so over the stock manifolds.

When Chrysler turned that orientation on its head, with the 1967 GTX 440/375, with the "HP" manifolds, which gave header-style power without all of the headaches of headers, reputed to be about 20 horsepower more than the normal stock exh manifolds, it changed things forever. At least in the Mopar ranks, as Chevies and Fords still had their normal exh manifolds, which needed replacing for more power.

Every time one of our friends got brave enough to put headers on their Chevy, the first question was always "What did you have to do to get them to fit?" For most, there were comments about "dinging" or "dimpling" the header tubes for clearance of things that they were supposed to be configured to clear. So what worked best, as to the brand, was widely-circulated. Then, a month or so later, we could hear them coming from a ways off. Header gasket leaks.

In the Mopar ranks, with the factory HP manifolds, all of those things did not apply. The small horsepower loss was worth it not having to endure those "badges of performance" our Chevy friends did. With all of the header company consolidaitons/mergers in the 1980s, many of those issues disappeared. As the legend of the Chrysler HP manifolds grew.

Head over to the YouTube channel, "Nick's Garage" and check out the several dyno tests comparing his "shop headers" to the Chrysler HP B/RB exhaust manifolds. Several videos there. ONE of Chrysler's strong points was that they followed the HP manifolds with a very good under-car exhaust system of ample pipe diameters! No need for loud mufflers, either.

When Flowmasters came out, with their innovative technology, they were the muffler to have. But EVERY 5.0L Mustang GT had to have them, it seemed. I could hear them coming at least a 1/4 mile behind me. I got tired of hearing that sound! Preferring the normal "Street HEMI" muffler sound instead. So I kept my windows rolled up and ignored them. FWIW

The car looks good with the wider factory wheels on it. "Sound" does not equate with "power". Although it can perk-up the ears of others and the police, by observation. Might sound "dull", but going fast in silence can be a better way to do things.

Your money, your car, your dreams . . .

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[King Hooter]

That's one bad a$$ looking Sport Suburban you got there, love it.

 

[413]

I raced a 12 second street car for many years. When the headers leaked at the heads it slowed the car down by a tenth of a second. That means 12.70 became 12.80. Then fix the leak and it was back to 12.70 again with no other changes. And they was monitoring the weather to compare apples to apples,

 

[496 polara]

I would think the the Big Block Mopar Tri-Y Under Chassis Headers would be a logical choice.