1967 Plymouth fury 3
New Member
I was wonder if anyone has a ok kinda cheap switch or knows how to fix a switch
Headlight switch
- Thread starter 1967 Plymouth fury 3
- Start date
Knebel
Senior Member
Send it off to have rebuild, I havent seen one for sale in at least a year. They are worth gold lol
Is it a headlight switch? Get in touch with Devinism (on here), who rebuilds them.
tommy at Parts hound does a great job on them also
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
The difficulty with rebuilding is tapping back the areas of the metal switch box that are peened over the tabs on the black plastic backing plate. Then you can clean contacts with a sandpaper or wire wheel. My repair of a 1970 headlight switch is detailed here: Headlight Switch Disassemble, 1970-1971 Fury
Since the switch may be valuable I'd consider PM to member Devinism to get a rebuild price.
Knebel
Senior Member
By valuable he means $500+ lol
No problem rebuilding it. What exactly is it doing, or not doing?
1967 Plymouth fury 3
New Member
The park lights work but when I flick it on the head lights nothing works
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
You may have contacts like these. The park portion in the middle stays clean and less grooved because it's used less. The lower portion gets more use and a lot more dirty because of the headlights getting more use.
1970 Switch, box and backing plate (spades at rear of backing plate). I cleaned brass contact strips with a red pencil eraser but had to wire wheel lightly to polish everything to the point where I got consistent low resistance at the parking lights position and headlight position of the rocker switch. If Devinism says 1967 is different, go with what he says.
There were 2 different switches that could have been installed.
One with the black plastic body, or one with a metal body (with black plastic back)
Do you know which you have?
One with the black plastic body, or one with a metal body (with black plastic back)
Do you know which you have?
1967 Plymouth fury 3
New Member
You have 2 terminals that should be hot at all times. B1 and B2
If you have an ohm meter you can check resistance
For headlights B1= power in, H=power out (to the floor hi/low switch).
You should see an open circuit between the 2 terminals when OFF and PARK.
HEADLIGHT ON position you should see continuity between the two (B1 & H)
B2 is power in for tail/dash/parking lamps. R is power out to dash/tail lamps. P is power out to park lamps.
Off = no continuity between B2 and R or P
PARK (center position) = continuity between B2 and R and also B2 and P
HEADLAMP ON = continuity between B2 and R
If you have an ohm meter you can check resistance
For headlights B1= power in, H=power out (to the floor hi/low switch).
You should see an open circuit between the 2 terminals when OFF and PARK.
HEADLIGHT ON position you should see continuity between the two (B1 & H)
B2 is power in for tail/dash/parking lamps. R is power out to dash/tail lamps. P is power out to park lamps.
Off = no continuity between B2 and R or P
PARK (center position) = continuity between B2 and R and also B2 and P
HEADLAMP ON = continuity between B2 and R
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