Heat adjuster slider

[Red63440]

Hey guys, I have a problem here, not major but its not good either. My slide lever heat adjuster runs through a plastic or nylon slotted bushing that is captive in the body of the lower heat adjuster housing below the push buttons. The design that year must have had over travel in it so to make it work they made the lever 2 piece with a slotted pivot on it to allow for the over travel. On the part that exits the front of the control panel they installed a rectangular bushing that the lever passes through and then pinned the lever to the bushing so it would stay straight in the housing. The bushing has fallen apart so the control lever being that its slotted just flops around and makes it difficult to adjust and it looks like crap. I have never seen one like it and I am asking that if anyone has one I could really use it. The cable connects at the lower black circle end and the plastic bushing was pinned on the arm at the upper black circle

Thanks all!

 

[Fratzog]

Suggest you contact Murray Park.

 

[Red63440]

Murray has one for $125.00 plus shipping, thats just pain crazy!

 

[commando1]

In Murray's defense, here's a chat I once had with him:
Me: What?? That much???
Murray: It's going to take me two hours to pull it.

I thought about it. It's not like he has a dozen min. wage yard monkeys stripping and inventorying parts all day long and he simply walks over and grabs it off a shelf.

I don't know if that takes the sting out or not.

 

[Fratzog]

Red: That shouldn't surprise you. 10 years ago I got the dash pad for the Polara in a wrecking yard in Sodus NY of $100 and the guy pulled it for me. Finding it in a wrecking yard or at a swap meet are your only realisitic alternatives for paying less.

 

[Red63440]

In Murray's defense, here's a chat I once had with him:
Me: What?? That much???
Murray: It's going to take me two hours to pull it.

I thought about it. It's not like he has a dozen min. wage yard monkeys stripping and inventorying parts all day long and he simply walks over and grabs it off a shelf.

I don't know if that takes the sting out or not.

It will take him 10 min. to pull it

 

[Red63440]

Red: That shouldn't surprise you. 10 years ago I got the dash pad for the Polara in a wrecking yard in Sodus NY of $100 and the guy pulled it for me. Finding it in a wrecking yard or at a swap meet are your only realisitic alternatives for paying less.

We both know how long it take to pull a dash pad without damaging it so its probably a fair price.

 

[Red63440]

Think I will check at Carlisle....worst that can happen is I won't find it.

 

[crazyboutwagons]

that design sucks. i replaced my control panel with a salvage yard one took a couple hours to get everything apart then back together. lasted about a month and that one broke. 45 yr old plastic /nylon cant be expected to last. cost me $65.oo went back to seller and bought another have to install that one going to lube it up good this time (ok start the jokes) and check the cable for any binding so it works smoothly

 

[Red63440]

that design sucks. i replaced my control panel with a salvage yard one took a couple hours to get everything apart then back together. lasted about a month and that one broke. 45 yr old plastic /nylon cant be expected to last. cost me $65.oo went back to seller and bought another have to install that one going to lube it up good this time (ok start the jokes) and check the cable for any binding so it works smoothly

The cable works very smoothly, I just feel that the plastic dried out and finally fell apart. I can still use it the way it is, I am just anal about that kind of thing. Where did you get yours?

 

[crazyboutwagons]

sorry have been busy havent had time to check the forum. both control units i bought were used from a salvage car.

 

[Knebel]

That same thing happened to me too. I have put in an universal inline heater valve cause my heater was always on and the price for the orig. Part made me almost pass out. Anyways, on that lever/nylon bushing thing, i took the whole assembly out and welded the arm straight on where the pivot is (make sure you get the right lenght). It just angels now from warm to cold but looks like its stock. Only thing was, you have to mess with the cable adjustment to get the valve balanced out so it closes and opens enough. Works plenty for me....

 

[Fratzog]

Thanks for the info. Right now I too many other little things on my to do list. But your idea will be added to the list.

 

[Scotty]

That same thing happened to me too. I have put in an universal inline heater valve cause my heater was always on and the price for the orig. Part made me almost pass out. Anyways, on that lever/nylon bushing thing, i took the whole assembly out and welded the arm straight on where the pivot is (make sure you get the right lenght). It just angels now from warm to cold but looks like its stock. Only thing was, you have to mess with the cable adjustment to get the valve balanced out so it closes and opens enough. Works plenty for me....

I did the same exact thing! Works great

 

[BigAsAWhale]

I made a new one from a piece of polyurethane bushing I had laying around.

 

[Knebel]

Yeah, figure out the right length and then put a little weld on it "til you find a new one". Worked for me but you have to readjust the cable cause it will either not close or open all the way!

Edit: d'oh..... i thought that was a new topic and didnt see it had 2 pages....

 

[68blackbird]

Supply vs demand...if I have it, and you need it, you will - 1. Pay for it. 2. Do without. 3. Do without while you keep looking. Not trying to be a smartazz, just the way it is, especially for us C body guys/gals, just not many choices out there...my 2¢

 

[vdk2010]

Like said before, I would try to file a new one out of a block of nylon. The part doesn't look to complex to try that!