Help ID a A833 manual trans

Chrome58

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Hello,

Can someone help me ID this A833 manual trans ?
Thank you.

A833_A1.jpg

A833_A2.jpg
A833_A3.jpg
A833_A4.jpg

A833_A5.jpg
 
I'm no expert, but based on where the shifter mount is and the "ball and trunion" u-joint flange, I'm pretty sure it's an 1964-65 A body trans.

I think there were two versions, one for a six and one for an 8 cylinder car.

BTW, the plant were they made these used to be here in Syracuse. They closed a few years ago.
 
I looked around a little and I think I'm incorrect about a 6 and 8 cylinder version.

Should be a 3.09:1 first gear ratio, but you'll want to verify that.
 
Thank you for the information.

I'm thinking about mating a 4-speed A833 transmission to a 440 V8 engine for my next resto project, so I'm on the lookout for trans, parts and informations.
 
I would use a B body or a B&E body like the bottom one in pic above. Will make the shifter come through the floor on the right spot on a actual c body.
 
Thanks.

What I gathered so far :
- For a mild 440, a 23-spline A833 is acceptable, but a more powerful engine would require a 18-spline unit. As those units are more expensive, I think I'll stick to a mild 440.
- Indeed, the L6 and V8 versions have different gearsets. The first gear is a 3.09 on the L6 and 2.66 on the V8, for example. This was done to help increase the torque needed on breakaway for the L6.
- Of course, a specific bellhousing is needed, and that doesn't come cheap.
- OD is available on later units, but I'm still on the fence about that one
 
Thanks.

What I gathered so far :
- For a mild 440, a 23-spline A833 is acceptable, but a more powerful engine would require a 18-spline unit. As those units are more expensive, I think I'll stick to a mild 440.
- Indeed, the L6 and V8 versions have different gearsets. The first gear is a 3.09 on the L6 and 2.66 on the V8, for example. This was done to help increase the torque needed on breakaway for the L6.
- Of course, a specific bellhousing is needed, and that doesn't come cheap.
- OD is available on later units, but I'm still on the fence about that one
It might be worth buying a rebuilt trans from this guy Passon Performance | Passon Performance | Get your SHIFT together! rather than scrounging up a used unit.
 
It all depends what you're gonna put it into. If possible I'd use the later slip yoke output vs ball and trunnion, mostly 'cause there's very few places that can/will work on a ball/trunnion driveshaft and that'll be an issue if you don't have the correct one for your application.

However, I did once put an 833 from my totalled road runner into a 65 Polara 4d sedan and that was not a good fit - I had to either remove the rear torsion bar support or lift the engine to get the transmission out far enough to change a clutch. That's the reason I looked long and hard to find the correct ball/trunnion transmission to convert my next 65 Polara and that works much better but for the issue of trying to get a b/t driveshaft balanced or things like that.
 
In almost all cases, the 23 spline transmission will work fine except for the most brutal drivers. The 18 is needed if the clutch is being dropped in a heavy car. The OD is not as strong as the typical A833OD, because the power flow through it is harder on the counter shaft. I've never broken any 23 spline or OD, and in my youth I was using nitrous assist and side-stepping the clutch at 3200rpm. I have broken B727 cases with the same car. If this is just a fun project for cruising and stoplight antics any 23 spline will be fine, and I'd advise the aluminum OD with a steeper set of gears in the rear axle.
 
I did manage to waste an aluminum A833OD in my truck. Had it behind a mild 360 with 3.55's out back. Didn't hammer it all that hard, I think the towing over 10K was what did it in (found out after the fact the trucks with those tranny's were rated to tow either 1 or 2 K lbs max by the Owners Manual).
 
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