Head over to
www.hamtramck-historical.com and look in the "Library" section for order guides, sales/trim guides, and such. Then you can head over to
www.eatondetroitspring.com . . . fill out the vehicle information in the menu, then when the page with their parts for the car happens, click on the Pentastar on the rh end of the upper tool bar to get a copy of the New Car Sales brochure. From those TWO resources, you can see what the NEwport has on it or could have on it.
If it's a Newport and a 2bbl, it's a 361 V-8. A smaller-bore 383. Same things which fit a 383 will fit that 361. Somer'62 361s could have factory 4bbls. Even with the 2bbl, you might be surprised how responsive it is off-idle and how it cruises easily on the road. Key word "cruises", as it was designed for highway performance rather than 1/4 mile racing. Adding a 4bbl might look "performance", but also consider that the primary side of a 600cfm 4bbl is the same size as the throttle bores in that 2bbl carb already. So not a lot of additional performance, in normal driving, from going to the effort and expense for a 4bbl, except at WOT and how much does that really happen, fwiw.
You might have to find a Mopar-only salvage yard to get that piece of trim, but some will only sell a complete door with the trim attached. Murray Park can be a resource for this.
ONE thing to remember about Chrysler products is that Chrysler designed "package vehicles", meaning that everything was built/designed to work together synergistically. Engines and transmission, too. Ford and GM did not do that as well as Chrysler did, back then. Which means, basically, that dual exhaust might be good, but headers might not, per se, for the benefit received other than visual. Rebuild and firm-up the suspension with some KYB shocks and it should be better than you might suspect . . . as to ride and handling. OEM, they rode more responsively and firmer than similar Ford or GM cars, but with a bit more road noise, by observation. Which also means they'll corner flatter and better, too! That was one of the beauties of Chryslers back then! Agile, responsive, and efficient operation.
Back then, EACH OEM had their own feel and such. THAT is what made Chrysler products GREAT, to me, but alien to people who were used to driving GM cars. SO . . . do NOT try to make this car act like something you might be used to (Ford or GM), but rather celebrate and enhance the Chrysler Character that these cars had . . . period. We all know that it takes headers to make a Ford or GM V-8 run well, but Chrysler usually had better-flowing exhaust systems from the factory than either Ford or GM, by observation, although it might not look that much different. That, plus underhood space limitations, is why I recommend only a dual exhaust (up to 2.5" diameter pipes and mufflers) rather than headers, for the best "bang for the buck". Plus the cost of headers, these days, not to forget the B/RB HP cast iron exhaust manifolds!
You'll need a good trim shop to recover the seats, plus using the Chrysler "French Seam" method of sewing things together. SMS can be the resource for fabrics, possibly.
When you remove the seats for repairs, you can get some DynaMat (or similar) for the floorpans to insulate better and help with the road noise.
DO check the threads in here on "Ammeter
It sounds like you are looking for more power. I would get the car road worthy before looking to make upgrades on the engine. I would go with a 4 barrel carb and aluminum manifold as well as duals. If it is a 361, don't over cam it. You could use the 383/440 cam from 69/70. The suggestion about using the high-performance exhaust manifolds is a good one, but they will most likely cost as much as headers. If you do a lot of around town driving, then a better set of gears would help your off the line performance. Good luck.
Bypass", too, doing that one upgrade to the charging system wiring.
Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67
