LCA Pivot Shaft Crooked?

[65Fury440]

I have the engine out of my car, was cleaning up and noticed something doesn't look right.
The pivot shaft looks off center in the hole?
Anyone care to school me on what needs to be done to fix this?
Apologies for the potato phone pics.
Thanks.

 

[65sporty]

Hard to tell from the pic, what is the condition of the bushing? Looks like the bushings need to be changed.

 

[65Fury440]

That's kinda what I was asking, is there a bushing at that point? I'm looking at this FSM pic, but not understanding where the bushing would be.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Center, just below dead center, shaft> bushing> into control arm t bar hex/anchor, t bar is into the rear of that.

 

[65Fury440]

So there's no reason for that nut to be crooked?
Looks like a washer should be on the end, being that the nut is out a ways from the bushing, could I be lucky that it's just the washer missing?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

There is no nut on control arm side it is on the front side of the stub frame section. It looks like your bushing has seen better days. The pivot shaft is pressed into the bushing which is pressed into the LCA held onto the car by nut in front and trapped in the rear by t bar.

 

[65Fury440]

Yea Dave, you're right. In a way it is a blessing. I have had an issue with "bump steer", and have looked over everything trying to figure it out. Maye those bushings will fix it.

The garage that does a lot of work for me said they weren't really up to speed with the old Chrysler suspension, but they couldn't find anything obvious.

The strut bushings are newer, an when the car is on the lift, there really isn't any fore and aft play, but then again, there is a lot of pressure from the torsion bar.

Looks like it's time just to drop it all out and redo the front.

Question is, to go Rock auto stock stuff or one of the upgrade companies.

My car is a straight line car, how do you guys that have used both feel about the extra cost of components to go ?

 

[saylor]

p-s-t

do the whole front end - don't do just bushes or such. do it all.

there is a commando thread here - he was the first to do the write up (of course) I based my rebuild off that.

we kicked it around pretty good back then its all part#s listed and whatnot.

try not to die -

- saylor

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I don't think you can get a urethane bushing for the lowers anymore everyone started to realize there was nothing actually holding the LCA to the pivot except the pressed on bushing (urethane bushings do not press) so in a extreme circumstances it could come off although I think it is highly unlikely you know how lawyers are. I would just change the bushings if your ball joints are tight they will not get any tighter with new, I'm guessing this because your garage checked for problems. One thing to remember is do not tighten pivot nut LCA, or cam bolts UCA until suspension is at ride height this will insure the bushings are relaxed at ride height and make them last longer, the lower needs any help it can get. Doug if your garage is not that schooled on old Chryslers make sure no one puts a toothed clamp on the T bars to remove, since you are removing the LCA just loosen the pivot and pry it and T bar back. I have used urethanes on UCA but the beat up stuff I replaced was so bad anything would be a improvement. I think urethanes are excellent upgrade on sway bars and tension rod bushings but above that unless you are planning some low profile sticky tires the benefits are limited. My 2 cents FWIW.

 

[65Fury440]

Thanks for the response guys.

Someone previously replaced front end parts on the car. Most of the rubber was replaced, The only thing I found marginal and replaced was a drag link.

I have always planned to do the whole front end when I did the disc brake upgrade. I'd like to do it all once and do it right, just timing is bad.

I'm just going to do the LCA bushings now while the engine is out, much easier accessibility wise.

I don't think the torsion bars will be too hard to get out. The car is a lifelong Alabama car, fairly clean in the socket area, but honestly, I've never pulled a T bar.

So Dave, are you saying one of these tools is a no go?

 

[65Fury440]

PS I'll be doing all the work myself, the garage I use are mostly truck and equipment guys.
I use them when I need stuff like pins pressed, or specialty equipment.They are real mechanics, but mostly geared towards big trucks.

I have trust issues letting someone work on my "special" cars.I may not know everything, but, I'd rather try and learn, than get someone else educated at my expense.

A $400 map sensor to fix a gas mileage issue was my latest experience. It didn't help. The sensor is $60, and the rest was the cost to mis-diagnose.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

That tool is fine just no vise grips, pipe wrenches they nick the bar and it will fail in that spot. You will need a press to get the sleeve out of LCA and to put it back together, a really big vise will work also but the jaws need to open like 2" further than the pivot shaft sticks out of LCA, so a 6" home depot one is not going to cut it.

 

[65Fury440]

I spent some time in daylight looking at the setup. As usual Dave, you're right on.

I can just disconnect the strut rods , loosen the pivot nut and smack the shaft back with a dead blow, then pry the LCA backwards.
I shot everything with PB blaster, hopefully the T bars slide out.

Thanks for taking the time to advise.