As I recall . . . proportioning valve would be "natural" brass
booster would be either black (semi-gloss) or cad, depending upon which one it was (brand)
spindle probably "natural cast", as with the caliper
stub would be black, semi-gloss
rotor, natural cast
everything else might be variable as to plant it was built in, who was supplying parts at that time, etc. control arms would be semi-gloss black, but might be partially unpainted.
When I say "semi-gloss" black, it'll be a gloss almost exactly like what came on the factory black air cleaners and engine brackets. NOT a hard, shiny black, but "softer" gloss. NOT the "chassis black" that many sell, either.
The ONE thing you will also need to do is the "inspection marks/daubs" for bolts/nuts which had to be torqued/verified for final inspection. Many of these things can be found in places like Roger Gibson's company or B/E-body restoration vendors.
HOPEFUYLLY, you noted the colors on the parts you have as you disassembled and cleaned them! That's the best gauge of what was originally on the car, rather than "a list of colors". Things weren't built as uniform as many might perceive, by observation. PLUS any paint stripes that could be used as ID of the parts themselves, aside from any inspection marks/daubs. And, also by observation, just because a generic restoration paint company sells "a color", does not mean it's exactly accurate fo ryour vehicle.
The other thing is that NONE of those items mentioned had really good paint coverage or finish smoothness as the exterior paint would have. They were painted quickly and some "holidays" might exist around the edges. Put any paint on just like you found it upon disassembly, IF you want it to be correct for your vehicle. In other words, the desire might be there to "make it better than new", but don't do that as it's not correct. Some items weren't sprayed, but dipped in a container of water with a layer of paint on the top of the water. "Runs" did happen in this situation.
Hope this helps,
CBODY67
