LH motor mount change

boyd36

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Cold lake , alberta , Canada
I just wanted to share this with all members , likely a lot of you already know . When I decided to put a build a stroker motor for my 65 N Y . I was so excited with planning and getting parts that I failed to notice that the 440 block I had just had all this machining work done to and was building , had no holes in the front of the block to install the motor mount for the 65 .!!! I had planned on getting new mounts and called Schumacher industries . Told them of my dilemma , feeling I just wasted 10 k $. . They have a mount that fits this application , with instructions on how to drill 2 holes in the front of the block and tap the holes . The mount fits perfect . So glad . I had to trim the mount slightly to make clearence for the power steering pump . If your stuck with a block without these holes there is an answer .
 
Hmmm, if you're drilling and tapping two holes in the block it sounds as if they've just copied the original mount, I'd always understood their product to be an end-around to having the block drilled/tapped although I'd never really investigated it. Any pics of what you bought, and of course curious minds want to know what you paid.........
 
So here is 4 pics of my 440 block with the 2 , 7/16 holes drilled and tapped . The original 413 has the boss with mount holes higher up on the cyl. Also a pic with mount held in place , and by itself , the notch I made was for p.s pump clearence .my original style would not fit . I had some old pump brackets in a box given to me , so don’t know what they were from , but fit nicely with some grinding to the new Schumacher mount . These are the poly loc mounts they offer .
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Drilling is scary !! It is not solid cast . You drill through holes going the opposite way , did holes in 3 steps . Broke one bit , but come up with next size bigger and just pulled out . Holes are 1 in deep .
 
After dyno pulls , we cut my wix filter open . Nice and clean . They fit the motorcraft filter on to seal engine . Will be replacing before run up .
 
Aha, I see now what they did, thanks for the photos. The yellow is the original mounting provision and the red is the ones they have you drill into the base area where the oil pump is located. So it is a different design.
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Schumacher poly locks rock! My son and I built a 360 when restoring his truck and it`s a damn powerful little LA motor that went through 2 sets of stock mounts in his 72 D100. After the second event and all the repairs (rad, shroud, fan, valve cover), I spent the money on the polys and never looked back. Highly recommended to anyone considering getting them.
 
Yes Polara , thanks , that is the perfect picture to show the difference . Schumacher had told me when I had called that the original idea was from an old Mopar racer that had basically made the same mistake and drilled the holes and made a mount , they just copied this and make these mounts .
 
Just be aware that those poly lock mounts do not tolerate heat. If you have header tubes that run close to them, the poly part melts. You will need to fab some kind of heat shield to make them live.

That kit uses a Bbody mount. I would look at putting a bolt thru the left one or making a strut to limit engine movement.

Kevin
 
Thanks for that info twostick , I have the tti ceramic headers which I hope will help with heat , I was wondering about how much engine will flex with the added tq and hp with this 513 engine . Has anyone added a limiter or strut that has a pic /
And where can I get one ? I hope to get engine in car in next month and would probably be easier installing or fabricating now .
 
Here's a pic of a torque strap from the mancini webpage. RB application:

mancini-racing-torque-strap-22.gif
 
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