Melted Firewall Connector Block What would you do? Re-route or Replace?

[mr. fix it]

So as the adventures contunue for my Polara. I am slowly getting the items list completed.

One of the fun things is the firewall connector block is melted in the typical charge wiring location.
Not just the hot going to the amp gauge but the return line as well to the starter relay.
the Hot feed also melted the connector socket next to it as well
So I have cleaned things up and see that I can buy a replacement block for a mere $80US or I can opt to relocate the wiring once I repair the terminals and replace the needed wiring.

Since my car isn't a 100 point restoration, I will opt ot go the secondary route and re-route the wiring into the socket locations that are not being used being careful not to place both the hot & return line next to each other.

 

[N8-96XJ]

This is something I'd like to do to my '65 as well. I am curious to see how its done and look forward to learning more.

 

[70NPORT]

Yeah ditto. My firewall connector block is spotless so I feel lucky, but i'll have this for reference if needed in the future.

 

[mr. fix it]

This is something I'd like to do to my '65 as well. I am curious to see how its done and look forward to learning more.

If caught early, it can be a pretty easy fix as long as you have the spinal cord of a cat from having to lay on your back jammed in below the steering wheel and the front seat.
I thought about removing my seat just to do this but found that since i had the steering column & dash cluster out already it made for an easy access point.

The under the hood should be easy to access as well since you can pull the harness away to replace the male spade connectors.

I'll take some more shots later as I go along and post them.

 

[N8-96XJ]

Thank you very much!

 

[mr. fix it]

I completed the new crimped ends and mounted the firewall block in place.
I had to repair the dimmer switch wiring connectors as well.

I moved the 3 melted connectors which were the hot wire for the amp gauge, the return line for the gauge as well as the "L" wire which I can't remember at this moment what it feeds.

Took me total of about 2 hours to fix including the dimmer connector.

 

[mgm1986]

I had this exact issue on my 68 Fury and found this is a common issue on older Mopar's that pops up after upgrading to a more powerful alternator. I replaced the power block with a spare and then I ran a 10 gauge wire from the alternator output stud to the battery stud on the starter relay. This simply bypasses the main charge going through the power block and Ammeter. Another alternative is to run the extra wire through the firewall to the ammeter and then back through the firewall to the starter relay. I didn't think this extra effort was worth it, of course this latter approach is how the factory solved for the issue on vehicles with heavy duty alternators from the factory.

I ran 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay and used a 14 gauge fusible link to keep it safe.

Helpful links:

From this link :http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

"The second plan is to convert to the ‘80s-‘90s style wiring. Simply connect the alternator output stud, via some serious gauge wire (matched to your alternator’s output specs) to the battery stud on the starter relay. But be absolutely sure you splice in an appropriate length of fusible-link wire into this new conductor!"

This link gives you the more thorough guide of running through the firewall to the ammeter and back through the firewall to the starter relay.

http://www.allpar.com/fix/alternator.html

Good luck!

 

[mr. fix it]

Thanks for that. I had plans to do this as well once things started to come together under the hood.

 

[N8-96XJ]

Thanks y'all. Man I see all those wires and it scares me a little. Never liked wiring problems. At least its not like a new car with thousands of wires and hundreds of sensors and relays. I think I can handle it.

 

[mr. fix it]

Thanks y'all. Man I see all those wires and it scares me a little. Never liked wiring problems. At least its not like a new car with thousands of wires and hundreds of sensors and relays. I think I can handle it.

Just make sure that you get the right crimper tool.
I used masking tape to mark each wire n referred to the electrical drawing

 

[mgm1986]

Thanks y'all. Man I see all those wires and it scares me a little. Never liked wiring problems. At least its not like a new car with thousands of wires and hundreds of sensors and relays. I think I can handle it.

I said the same thing to myself before I started in on this. I took it one wire at a time and it was very straightforward once I started. The hardest part was laying under the dash while swapping every wire from the melted power block to the new power block!

 

[mr. fix it]

Agreed. It worked out for me pulling it back so I could kneel or sit on the rocker sill
I have to be very careful with my lower back. .

Im just about to tackle the headlights switch.

 

[mgm1986]

Agreed. It worked out for me pulling it back so I could kneel or sit on the rocker sill
I have to be very careful with my lower back. .

Im just about to tackle the headlights switch.

Awesome, keep us posted!

 

[mr. fix it]

Here is the headlight switch showing the melted connector block.
I happened to get a replacement from a box of parts I bought earlier this year which saved my bacon here.

I investigated the wiper switch, ignition switch as well as the convertible top controller as well which were all in good condition but I pulled them apart to tighten the connectors up.