Need pics of 2bbl 383 linkage

[FinallyGot1]

Hello all. I am in the process of returning my '68 Newport's 383 back to the factory 2bbl setup. I have the original carb, air cleaner, and manifold. Problem is, the original linkage was severely butchered during the changeover. I'm not sure how many parts/pieces were lost in the process and I have no idea what it's all supposed to look like since the conversion was done by the previous owner. If anyone has any decent pics of what the factory 2bbl linkage setup is supposed to look like, I'd really appreciate seeing those.
The manifold coming off is a Holley Street Dominator single plane that they don't make anymore so I think I'll hang onto it for now. Carb is a 600cfm Eddy that may be used on my built motor. Works fine but just not right for the way I drive this old girl.
Any help here would be much appreciated. TIA everyone!

 

[MYSINBIN]

These are of a Stromberg 2bbl on a '67 Newport w/383 before rebuilding:









Different '67 Newport, same carb and engine.






Hope the pics help. I can take more if need be.

John

 

[Wollfen]

I have a holley 2bbl on a 383 here, i will check to see if the setup is any different and take pics if necessary too.

 

[saylor]

hey whats the proper setting on the kickdown link?

 

[FinallyGot1]

Thank you so much! I think this is pretty darn close to what mine is supposed to be. There's just so much I don't know about this car. I'm trying to reverse engineer my way back to original based on the parts I have on the car.....not knowing which have been changed, modified, or discarded. This should help get me started. Thanks again!:yourock:

 

[FinallyGot1]

hey whats the proper setting on the kickdown link?
View attachment 56300

It's my understanding that the kickdown link should be all the way forward so that none of the slot is showing behind the throttle stud. I couldn't make that happen with my 2bbl linkage cobbled up to a 4bbl Eddy carb. I ended up using a short screw with 2 jam nuts to effectively move the back edge of the slot forward. That worked. Now it actually downshifts when I stick my foot in it.

Thanks for the pic. Gives me a good idea of what I need to arrive at when I'm done. Don't suppose you have a view from the front do you? That would be immensely helpful in figuring out how this whole mess is supposed to hook up & look. :sSig_thanks:

 

[saylor]

ill have to dig out the manual.. I would have bet $.25 that it said 3/4 inch gap on the slider... but maybe that was some other adjustment and im old and confused.


choke side - manual choke cable. as opposed to that pic above ^^ I think that pic above is a thermo controlled choke I think

 

[saylor]

the frontals:

View attachment 56329

 

[FinallyGot1]

Amen to "old and confused". I get more of both every day. Maybe the zero gap setting worked for me because everything is/was so out of whack on my setup. I just kept adjusting it a little at a time until it started acting right when I drove it.
That's been kind of a theme with this car.
Only 6 cylinders were firing when I got it so the previous owner cranked up the idle speed to compensate. One of the metering rods was stuck in it's bore in "full rich" position so he put the absolute softest step-up springs in to get the OTHER rod into full rich mode as soon as the throttle was touched. Of course, the stuck metering rod also meant he had to set that idle mixture screw about 1/4 turn open and the other idle screw about 6 turns open to make it idle right. And all of this with a single plane manifold which Edelbrock says this carb is all wrong for in the first place. UGH! Oh, and instead of replacing the voltage regulator, he gave it a trickle charger and just plugged it in every night. Not to mention the overheating issue.... This has all made troubleshooting a bit of a challenge.

 

[FinallyGot1]

the frontals:

View attachment 56329

Pic didn't come through. Dunno if the error is on my end or not though....

 

[FinallyGot1]

Got the swap done. Put a new radiator in while I was at it. Original was too clogged and too old to be saved so I got an aftermarket all-aluminum 3-core to replace it.
Anyway, I got it all buttoned up, turned the key annnnd.....no spark. UGH!
Of COURSE it won't fire. Makes perfect sense because I didn't touch ANYTHING ignition related. It worked BEFORE I didn't touch it so it makes perfect sense that it wouldn't work now that it hasn't been touched. Fuel system yes. Ignition system no.
I don't get it. It cranks over strong and there's gas at the carb but no spark......
I don't even know where to start. Baffled.

 

[Yatzee]

I would like it if you went to this site ( not for it's instructions ) and scroll down to see just what your up against. If you manage to find the parts to connect the carb I doubt anyone would really know if they are original to that vehicle because of the numerous combinations.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transm...wdown-on-stock-torqueflite-kick-down-linkage/

 

[FinallyGot1]

Yup. Already have that page bookmarked. I know it's a mess. I'm betting that the previous owner didn't change many parts during the 4bbl conversion. He changed the throttle cable bracket and didn't have the original....but I found one on ebay so I'm good there. Just trying to get everything adjusted back to stock. Can't get the damned thing to fire though.....no clue why. Grr

 

[FinallyGot1]

Okay. I got fire! Woohoo! I got fuel too. Carb is so far out of whack it's not even funny....but it runs.