No lights.

[carguy300]

Got dash back together, hooked up. Brand new battery, motor over ok. No headlights, park lights, flashers, turn signals, windows or horn.Dome light, map light and seats work. Any ideas? Im at a loss.

 

[live4theking]

Time to get the FSM out and go to the wiring diagrams. I would start with each circuit that isn't working and trace it back to power. You'll either find something that have in common or each individual problem.

For instance the parking lights, flashers, and turn signals are all the same lights. They are keyed.

Headlights and horn should be always hot.

 

[carguy300]

Have no brake lights either. I still have the front seat out, time to go dash diving again. The amp gauge also pulses when wipers on and engine turns over.

 

[carguy300]

Ive got the book, just need to get back out to garage/shop. Going back in 100s it texas, gets REAL hot in there! I do appreciate all the imput.

 

[Big_John]

Probably the fusible link.

 

[carguy300]

I just did a quick voltage check coming out of fuseable link into bulk head, 12.5. Looks like Ill be going back under the dash this weekend.

 

[Omni]

Good Evening
Did the lights work before? If so, then need to recheck everything that was disturbed (I know, just what you wanted to hear).
I have been chasing an electrical gremlin in my '65 Newport. The oil light will come on when cruising down the road. It will stay on for a few miles then go off. It may come back on or it may wait for a few weeks. I replaced the switch with no improvement. I have a mechanical gauge which does not indicate any issues. It's just damn unnerving to have that red light staring at you.
I just today rewired the under hood circuit and the light went off. Found no issues with the wire that was removed. Is it fixed or a coincidence? Time will tell.
Moral of the story is that electrical gremlins can be exasperating.
Omni

 

[carguy300]

Good Evening
Did the lights work before? If so, then need to recheck everything that was disturbed (I know, just what you wanted to hear).
I have been chasing an electrical gremlin in my '65 Newport. The oil light will come on when cruising down the road. It will stay on for a few miles then go off. It may come back on or it may wait for a few weeks. I replaced the switch with no improvement. I have a mechanical gauge which does not indicate any issues. It's just damn unnerving to have that red light staring at you.
I just today rewired the under hood circuit and the light went off. Found no issues with the wire that was removed. Is it fixed or a coincidence? Time will tell.
Moral of the story is that electrical gremlins can be exasperating.
Omni

Unfortunately I bought this car as a project. Was told ran when parked about 15 yrs ago. Old man owned it, started doing work on it, got to old, went in storage. The dash was all apart, some pieces missing. Got everything, put it all back together, hooked up new battery and this is where Im at. Had to to alot of motor work also. Not ready to try and start it yet, but it does turn over. The fuse link is good.I have to go back and start checking more in detail, Im hoping its something I am overlooking. The bulk head is not real bad but I will probably change it out. I had to with my other 300 but it had major melt down. Yes wiring is my weakness! All wires under dash look good, I think there was wiring issue with blower motor, nothing else was spliced or butchered. I need to ck all fuses. All that work are elec seats, dome and map light and wipers. Like I said, I hope its something simple!

 

[Omni]

Good Morning
Looks like your in for the long haul. As a project, you have no idea what was/wasn't done. You might end up removing the dash (w/wiring) and checking each circuit.
Not an easy/enjoyable task, but it is far better than working on your back with your head stuck up under the dash. Replacement harnesses (if obtainable) are insane in price. Evans Wiring MAY be able to duplicate yours but you would probably have to send it to him. If your wiring skills are shaky, this is an opportunity to get better. (I'm a glass half-full kind of guy.) If you do go this route, don't cheap out using butt connectors and scotch locks. Purchase the Packard style terminals and housings and the proper crimp tool. Use shrink tube, solder and vinyl tape to wrap the harness once it is done. You only want to do this once and you want to be proud of what you have accomplished.
There are probably You Tube videos on building harnesses.
The completed dash was installed as a unit when new, so it is doable. Having an extra set of hands would be great.
Personally, I have done A, B and M body dashes, no C body (yet). Take a look at the service manual and see what is involved in dash removal. A bright side (!) is that it would be a great time to remove the heater box to renew gaskets and have a look at the heater core and A/C evaporator and renew any missing deteriorated insulating material.
Good Luck and God Speed.
Keep posting what you are doing
Omni

 

[carguy300]

Good Morning
Looks like your in for the long haul. As a project, you have no idea what was/wasn't done. You might end up removing the dash (w/wiring) and checking each circuit.
Not an easy/enjoyable task, but it is far better than working on your back with your head stuck up under the dash. Replacement harnesses (if obtainable) are insane in price. Evans Wiring MAY be able to duplicate yours but you would probably have to send it to him. If your wiring skills are shaky, this is an opportunity to get better. (I'm a glass half-full kind of guy.) If you do go this route, don't cheap out using butt connectors and scotch locks. Purchase the Packard style terminals and housings and the proper crimp tool. Use shrink tube, solder and vinyl tape to wrap the harness once it is done. You only want to do this once and you want to be proud of what you have accomplished.
There are probably You Tube videos on building harnesses.
The completed dash was installed as a unit when new, so it is doable. Having an extra set of hands would be great.
Personally, I have done A, B and M body dashes, no C body (yet). Take a look at the service manual and see what is involved in dash removal. A bright side (!) is that it would be a great time to remove the heater box to renew gaskets and have a look at the heater core and A/C evaporator and renew any missing deteriorated insulating material.
Good Luck and God Speed.
Keep posting what you are doing
Omni

I am getting to old for alot of this wiring stuff. I did have to replace bulkhead and a new under hood harness from Evans a few years ago on my other 68 and said Id never do that again. I stiil have drivers seat out so I will climb back under again! Hoping and Praying it is something simple. It was inside stored, no rodent or moisture damage. I dont why the old man took apart this dash, he did do alot of other repairs but ended up in a nursing home. He donated the car to an auto museum in california. Thats where I got it. I gave a good price, I thought it had alot of potential. Does have some rust in areas around back glass, vinyl top. I havent given up yet..!

 

[PH27L7]

My best guess from afar is one or more of your quick connects is not making a good connection. I would start with the 10-pin one by the steering column that goes to the turn signal switch, most of your described problems go through this one. Next I would remove the bulkhead connection at the firewall & examine every connection for full engagement & corrosion.

 

[carguy300]

I have had bulk head apart, typical load line has been hot, some plastic melted. Going to bypass that connection and clean the rest real good then climb back under the dash. Thanks for the tips!

 

[polaratherapy]

Check your grounds!

 

[57fury440]

I would start with the light switch. That should always have power to it.