Playing the no start game.

[Jimmyse23]

Well as the title states I'm playing games with my 66 300 383 4bbl. I finally got around to replacing the coil, cap, rotor, points and condenser as part of my just purchased maintenance. Of course she won't start now.

Triple checked the plug wires on the cap and the firing order. Even put old cap on.

Swapped back to the old rotor and points.

Put old coil back on. Checked all the specs and the fell with in the specified numbers per the FSB. 1.6-1.8 ohms between pos and neg posts and then 10,100 to the tower on both coils.

Voltage was correct to the proper terminals of the ballast. But what struck me as strange was the 5 volts I was getting to the coil right before I called it quits for the night. Any ideas? Ran great before I did the cap, rotor, points and condenser.

 

[65sporty]

Did you get the points gapped correctly? You had it on one of the dist cam lobes when you set them?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Change the condenser back Mike Z had 2-3 brand new ones bad and has been running on the old one. Apparently the Chinese have not got the manufacturing of capacitors sorted out.

 

[Jimmyse23]

Did you get the points gapped correctly? You had it on one of the dist cam lobes when you set them?

I thought I did. I guess I'll double check again.

Change the condenser back Mike Z had 2-3 brand new ones bad and has been running on the old one. Apparently the Chinese have not got the manufacturing of capacitors sorted out.

The one I installed was an NOS mopar one that came with the car. It's older but looked brand new. Anyway I replaced everything with the stuff I took out and still no go. I'm pretty stumped.

I followed this diagram for my plug wires and firing order. Can someone bobble check it.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Voltage was correct to the proper terminals of the ballast. But what struck me as strange was the 5 volts I was getting to the coil

Should be higher than 5 volts. If you have between 8-11 key on run at ballast and not that at coil your wire is bad but you should check this with points on a high spot. If the points are closed they will allow current to flow heating up ballast and coil which will increase resistance and lower voltage. Or just ohm out the wire from ballast to coil to see if it has high resistance.

 

[Jimmyse23]

Well I feel like an idiot. I didn't get around to cranking the car up but, I'm prettty sure I didn't gap the points right. I set the gap to .015 for starters but then fatherhood called. I'll see what happens after work tomorrow. I blame kids and working on cars too late at night.

 

[Snotty]

Had the same problem. Turned out a loose wire on my ballast resistor was the problem. Put it back on and varoom! How's yours?

 

[Jimmyse23]

Well we'll find out tonight

 

[Jimmyse23]

Funny thing when you set the correct gap....lights right up. Live and learn.

 

[65sporty]

Glad it was a easy fix.

 

[70_NPORT]

Glad you got it worked out. Non starting mopar is prob the suckiest thing in the world to deal with.
So are ya Dead set on the points setup; or might you consider electronic ignition?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

With your points not opening that explains the 5volts at coil.

 

[Jimmyse23]

Glad you got it worked out. Non starting mopar is prob the suckiest thing in the world to deal with.
So are ya Dead set on the points setup; or might you consider electronic ignition?

Yea, I had the gap set way too big at first. I have it set now at .015 and got the idle and timing set and locked in. I plan on making the switch at some point. Summit has the whole setup for $199 with the orange box.

With your points not opening that explains the 5volts at coil.

Sure also explains the smoking hot ballast and the super warm coil.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I must admit I think I am becoming a convert. I kind of like the dizzys that pace performance is offering, the street one is less than $100 and I think they said $12 for a replacement module that takes the place of ballast resistor you should already have in your glove box. I'm normally not a fan of aftermarket drop in, all in one or petronix conversion, and the like because of side of the road parts availability on Sunday afternoon if any of above fail. The Mopar factory parts are also becoming not available at chain stores so carrying all the parts to get up and running is getting rather large, and their pile of spares is smaller and not big $$.

 

[Jimmyse23]

I hear you here. One thing is for sure though, points rarely fail, and ballast resistors and condensers are fairly cheap. I thing the spares I have would last a lifetime and I'm not going to race my car. Just cruise with it.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I hear you here. One thing is for sure though, points rarely fail, and ballast resistors and condensers are fairly cheap. I thing the spares I have would last a lifetime and I'm not going to race my car. Just cruise with it.

Agreed points are easy especially if your only running casual mileage like we do with these old cars.