Please help, ‘67 Crown Coupe

[Rdtreur]

Hi guys, Today was the big for me to pick up my ‘67 Crown Coupe. I didn’t want to pick it up on a flat bed . The guys at the Auction told me it is a running and driving , road worthy car. So I sat behind the wheel and started the old beauty and started driving.
Then the problems started....
I made a list:

1: Leaky carb.
2: upper radiator hose leaks (a/c belt cut it)
3: horrible noise from under the dash... more speed=more noise.
4: Smoke from A-C pump.

And than I started looking more electric stuff:
5: tail lights: no brake light, no turn signals.
6: no Blower
7: no radio
This new owner is NOT happy at this moment..

So I left the car there because it is not save to drive.
Now my questions:
1: can it be that all the electric stuff is cutt off because some sort of safety/power intervention? (My brothers ‘68 lebarron has some ***. shut off at hard accelleration)

2: the heater hose is re-routed, see photo. Can it be that the heater still works with only 2 out of four connected?

3: the noise from under the dash, can that be the speedo cable? Speedo is bouncing.

4: all advise on the above discribed problems is welcome ;-).

I allready got a 1967 shop manual

Here some pics:
The disconected heater core:

The re-routed heater hoses.

The old beauty:

 

[LocuMob]

Those two nipples are a valve for the heater, your car is an A/C car. There might have been a leak in the valve and they bypassed it.

 

[detmatt]

Your turn signal switch is shot causing your brake lights and turn signals to not work. Tilt/tele? If so that switch is not reproduced and you’re going to need to either find a good used one and/or find a surgeon to rebuild what you have. FYI the ‘68 switch is an improvement over the ‘67.
Noisy speedo cable is entirely possible. You could try removing it, cleaning and re-lubricate.

 

[detmatt]

Those two nipples are a valve for the heater, your car is an A/C car. There might have been a leak in the valve and they bypassed it.

Or the heater core is shot.

 

[70Tom]

Or the heater core is shot.

That would be my guess too. It's probably leaking.

 

[Big_John]

And than I started looking more electric stuff:
5: tail lights: no brake light, no turn signals.
6: no Blower
7: no radio

Easy stuff first.. I believe those are all on one fuse... So check the fuses first.

 

[live4theking]

That's a real bummer.

 

[detmatt]

Easy stuff first.. I believe those are all on one fuse... So check the fuses first.

Nope, tail & stop are on there own, radio has its own as does the blower.

 

[Rdtreur]

Nope, tail & stop are on there own, radio has its own as does the blower.

Thanks for all the comments and help
As for the turn signals, the front works good only the rear is not flashing . I did not know ther are two fuse boxes, I only find the one under the left side of the dash.

 

[OneEyed]

Despite all the problems, that is a GREAT LOOKING CAR!!
Hopefully you got a good deal to offset all the repairs needed.

 

[Big_John]

Nope, tail & stop are on there own, radio has its own as does the blower.

Ahh.... Yea, my car shares a fuse with radio and turn signals.

I'd still check the fuses.... LOL.

 

[Big_John]

Thanks for all the comments and help
As for the turn signals, the front works good only the rear is not flashing . I did not know ther are two fuse boxes, I only find the one under the left side of the dash.

There is only one fuse box.

 

[detmatt]

Thanks for all the comments and help
As for the turn signals, the front works good only the rear is not flashing . I did not know ther are two fuse boxes, I only find the one under the left side of the dash.

That’s good, you’ll want to be really careful with that turn signal switch, it’s a very weak link. There’s like an awful lot of current going to that wall of light above the rear bumper and it all runs through that turn signal switch.

 

[Rdtreur]

There is only one fuse box.

I looked at the fusebox and the fuses all looked good. When I am back at the car I will replace them and hope for the best.

 

[Davea Lux]

If the front turn signal works, you fuse is ok. Check the rear tail light bulbs and also check the ground to the turn signal assembly. Since neither brake lights or rear turn signals are working, you might also have a bad brake light switch. Try turning on the 4 way flasher to see if you are getting power to the rear of the car. Use a test light to verify power. If you have power, try hooking a temporary ground to the tail light assembly to see if any of the lights come on. If you still have nothing, try by passing the brake light switch with a short piece of wire spanning the plug for the switch. If you then have brake lights, you know the brake light switch is bad.

The horrible noise from under the dash that increases with speed is either a speedo cable that needs lube or a bad magnetic coupling for the speedometer head. If the coupling is bad, the unit will need to be rebuilt or replaced.

Unhooked heater hoses usually indicates a bad heater core as mentioned in the previous posts. The blower might be just a blown fuse. Could also be a bad heater switch or a burned out resister block for the blower speed control. If you have no blower function at all speed settings, it will usually be a bad fuse, switch or blower motor. You can test the blower motor by unplugging the wire to the motor and hooking it to a power lead. If the blower motor runs, your resister or switch is probably bad.

It looks like the upper radiator hose was cut because someone did not properly route it or the installed the wrong hose. That will need to be replaced.

Smoke coming from the A/C compressor indicates a failing clutch or a seized compressor. Try unplugging the blue wire from the clutch assembly and see if it stops smoking. If so your compressor is most likely seized. If the hub assembly still smokes and squeals after it has been unhooked, the bearings in the clutch have failed and will have to be replaced before the car can be driven as the belts will fail in short order. You can test for a seized compressor by hooking a socket and breaker bar to the bolt as the center of the clutch assembly. If you can turn the compressor shaft by hand a couple of full revolutions, the compressor is probably still working. (Be sure the ignition is off when doing this test).

Dave

 

[Rdtreur]

If the front turn signal works, you fuse is ok. Check the rear tail light bulbs and also check the ground to the turn signal assembly. Since neither brake lights or rear turn signals are working, you might also have a bad brake light switch. Try turning on the 4 way flasher to see if you are getting power to the rear of the car. Use a test light to verify power. If you have power, try hooking a temporary ground to the tail light assembly to see if any of the lights come on. If you still have nothing, try by passing the brake light switch with a short piece of wire spanning the plug for the switch. If you then have brake lights, you know the brake light switch is bad.

The horrible noise from under the dash that increases with speed is either a speedo cable that needs lube or a bad magnetic coupling for the speedometer head. If the coupling is bad, the unit will need to be rebuilt or replaced.

Unhooked heater hoses usually indicates a bad heater core as mentioned in the previous posts. The blower might be just a blown fuse. Could also be a bad heater switch or a burned out resister block for the blower speed control. If you have no blower function at all speed settings, it will usually be a bad fuse, switch or blower motor. You can test the blower motor by unplugging the wire to the motor and hooking it to a power lead. If the blower motor runs, your resister or switch is probably bad.

It looks like the upper radiator hose was cut because someone did not properly route it or the installed the wrong hose. That will need to be replaced.

Smoke coming from the A/C compressor indicates a failing clutch or a seized compressor. Try unplugging the blue wire from the clutch assembly and see if it stops smoking. If so your compressor is most likely seized. If the hub assembly still smokes and squeals after it has been unhooked, the bearings in the clutch have failed and will have to be replaced before the car can be driven as the belts will fail in short order. You can test for a seized compressor by hooking a socket and breaker bar to the bolt as the center of the clutch assembly. If you can turn the compressor shaft by hand a couple of full revolutions, the compressor is probably still working. (Be sure the ignition is off when doing this test).

Dave

Thanks Dave, a lot of great info in your post. I got some things to Check

 

[LocuMob]

Or the heater core is shot.

The coolant flows to the valve, then to the core, which is still hooked up. That's my logic on it. I know there's a thread hiding here somewhere that explains it better.

 

[detmatt]

The coolant flows to the valve, then to the core, which is still hooked up. That's my logic on it. I know there's a thread hiding here somewhere that explains it better.

I don’t think any of those hoses are attached to the engine though.

 

[LocuMob]

I don’t think any of those hoses are attached to the engine though.

No, I guess I was saying I think the heater core is fine, as the bypassed the valves inlet and outlet without saying it. Coolant goes from the engine to the nipple on the right, then from the nipple on the left to the heater core, then out and back to the water pump.

 

[Davea Lux]

No, I guess I was saying I think the heater core is fine, as the bypassed the valves inlet and outlet without saying it. Coolant goes from the engine to the nipple on the right, then from the nipple on the left to the heater core, then out and back to the water pump.

If memory serves me correctly, there is a branch fitting inside of the heater box that has two short sections of heater hose hooking things together. Often, the two short hoses are what is leaking. In any case the heater box will have to come out either to fix the hoses or to replace the core, a major pain in the butt job. Before doing that I would suggest pressure testing the unit to see if it will hold without leaking.

Dave