Alright guys. I need your help again. I can’t get my power to my fuse panel instrument fuse . I researched and believe power goes through panel switch. I have power there on yellow wires , no power out on tan wire to fuse block. I bought new panel switch same result. I jumped yellow To tan and they worked . Iam lost on this , is there a way to test new switch, or is there something else going on . It’s a 68 newyorker been in a barn for many years, yes rats did some damage but not to bad. The bulk head is in great condition no burned up wire , and there was very little corrosion, which I cleaned up . Any help would be appreciated.
Power to instrument fuse block.
- Thread starter frankiln
- Start date
What about the third wire going to the dimmer switch? Usually black (I don't have a '68 FSM), that is the wire from the headlight switch. That would have power when the headlights are on.
The yellow wire is for the dome light.
The E1 18-T (tan) wire does not feed the fuse block. The Tan wire comes off the fuse block to feed the panel dimmer switch/dial.
Q3 12-R (red) is the big wire feeding power to the fuse block (battery feed). It looks like it connects to a splice-junction which joins with J1-12R (goes to ignition switch) and R6-12 BK (black) which goes to the bulkhead connector (the middle connector) pin P which (in the engine compartment) goes directly to the BATT post on the alternator.
If you have a volt/ohm meter with long lead wires, I'd measure the resistance from the alternator output post to the big red wire at the fuse block. (disconnect the positive battery cable when doing this). This should be a direct connection.
Your problem is that you are not getting power to your fuse block - yes?
Q3 12-R (red) is the big wire feeding power to the fuse block (battery feed). It looks like it connects to a splice-junction which joins with J1-12R (goes to ignition switch) and R6-12 BK (black) which goes to the bulkhead connector (the middle connector) pin P which (in the engine compartment) goes directly to the BATT post on the alternator.
If you have a volt/ohm meter with long lead wires, I'd measure the resistance from the alternator output post to the big red wire at the fuse block. (disconnect the positive battery cable when doing this). This should be a direct connection.
Your problem is that you are not getting power to your fuse block - yes?
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Actually, it does. There are two buses on the fuse block, one on with the ignition with the other hot all the time and then one other on the end. That's the dimmer getting its power from the headlight switch via the fuse.
Yes I see what you mean. Maybe more than 2 buses:
Accessories feed comes from the ignition switch. I'd bet that's where the problem is.
(this diagram from '67 Polara/Monaco, I don't have any '68 manuals)
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Here guys:
Say 2.5 busses if you like; Batt, Alt, and Inst Panel lights, from Fuse G. That last circuit is controlled by that rheostat dimmer adjacent to the headlight toggle switch in our 67-68 slabbies, I'm glad I have that extra panel, complete with switches, speedo and such. I really preferred the earlier headlight switch on the '66, which can be found for MANY vehicles, but I've learned my '68 circuits fairly well now.
I believe the yellow wires usually are switched grounds, while most lamps get their + current from orange wires. I have to replace my turn signal switch again soon, and plan to clean up my instrument panel a bit more while at it. I probably will lay more copper foil down on that damned old cicuit board also. Maybe I'll get the spare ready instead, then just swap them..... All this depends on how much time I get from my mutants.
The yellow wire is probably getting power by back feeding through the bulb filaments in the dome light. Try shutting the door when you check it. But you really need to not focus on that.
The black wire should be hot when, and only when, the headlight is on. That is the one to check. It is the feed for the dimmer and it comes directly from the headlight switch.
I don't have a '68 Chrysler FSM, so I'm not 100% sure what the purple wire is. I do have a '67 Polara FSM that should be very close though and there is a purple wire that feeds the console shifter light (not the courtesy lights). If that is the shifter indicator light, it's been wired so that light isn't dimmable. Since the original insulator/plug is gone, it's hard to know what has been changed, or if it's been changed.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Yes, the yellow wires are hot, but they're still switch leads. If you care to examine the dome light and door pin switches, you will find that they yellow wires are hot on these also. Be WARY of using these for any purpose other than what they're dedicated for!!! MoPar (and the other US automotive manufactories) used switched grounds back in the day. Nothing more disconcerting than to be fooling with lights and switches in an old rod, then to get a nice big SPARK! before blowing a fuse when you labored under the delusion that a switch lead wasn't hot.
The tan wire is the supply to Fuse G, which indeed protects the instrument panel lights. You can temporarily heat it up from any number of "hot" wires but be damned sure you DON'T USE ANY FOR A FIX EXCEPT WHAT IS MEANT FOR IT!!
Attend:
Note the plethora of purple and yellow 18 AWG wires here fr p8-87 of the 1968 FSM. The courtesy lamps ALL are switched by the YELLOW wire, and this wire remains hot until a switch grounds it. The purple leads are used for the interior lighting often, unless you've somehow got a turn signal lead loose. Go to Service Manuals – MyMopar and download the '67 FSM if you're driving a '68, as that will most closely resemble what you have. I copped my '68 FSM for some $, and you should get one too if you need it, but the '67 has MUCH of the same exact composition.
The yellow wires are switched to ground at the door switches. If they were hot, you'd short every time you opened a door.
3175375
Senior Member
What did you do to get the instrument lights working?
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