Probably the dumbest idea ever

[Grease556]

So I have a 1965 Newport 4-door, as per the status quo it has the 383 in it. I was wondering (yes even after searching many resources) how difficult it would be to swap in a built 318 and trans??? (it will still be a 727 btw but a 1976 set up for a small block instead of the twin pump from 1965) I know there is some mounting boss difference on the engine mounts from 62(?)through 65 than from 66 on but is that a big deal to the point that some other type of mount couldn't be fabricated???

 

[traintech55]

Well lets see, You will have one hell of a time with the motor mounts, then the transmission will not work because 1965 uses a cable to shift the trans, Then you will have to fabricate SO many small parts to long to list. Then to top it off, your 318 (even a built one) would have a hard time moving that car. Why reinvent the wheel, get that 383 running right and you will not be sorry.

 

[Grease556]

Because the 383 is getting a new home in a MUCH lighter vehicle in the spring. And I'm not worried about speed I just want to be able to cruise in town with it. If I could find a decent 383 for the price I can get the 318 for ($200 COMPLETE carb to pan) I'd buy it instead.

 

[twostick]

C-Bodies could be had with a Poly in 65 so other than dealing with the orphan left motor mount, a 318 will bolt in. If you don't mind a non original shifter the trans will fit too.

Kevin

 

[Grease556]

I guess I should say it is a 318LA..... So does that change anything? I know the poly was a big hulking motor compared to the LA but are the mounts close to or the same as LA mounts? Could I modify another type of mount to work for the left side, or would I be better off fabricating new mounts all together? (I have no fear of fabrication btw, just looking for my easiest course of action) I was planning on going with a "rat rod-esque" shifter, tall floor shifter with a beer tap handle for a knob (to match my bobber), so it was already going to be non-stock.

 

[twostick]

I've put an LA where a poly used to be so it will fit. IIRC one bolt on the poly engine bracket is off so only 3 out of 4 bolts will fit the poly bracket to the LA.

You might have to look to Canada for easy to find C-Body Poly engine brackets, easy being a relative term. Big block Dodge and Plymouth C-Bodies were not real common in Canada. Mostly Poly 318's and /6. Chrysler got the big block as standard equipment.

Any time I see a Dodge or Plymouth C-body for sale in the US it always lists a big block for power.

Kevin

 

[BillGrissom]

Search on the A-body Big Block forum. There is also a site www.BigBlockDart.com. Those guys usually go from LA mounting points on the K-frame to big-block brackets. There were a few factory A-body big-blocks, but most use Schumacher adapter brackets. Search their site for ideas. It would be easier going your way, to a smaller engine, and probably any custom headers would then fit. As I recall, the 340 and 360 blocks have a slightly different motor bracket on one side. People cut and re-weld a tab on 318 mounts to fit.

Another idea is to swap in a complete Magnum small-block (5.2 or 5.9L V-8) and its 4 spd transmission. That gives you MPFI, roller lifters, and over-drive. I recall they were 1988 - 2002, used in Dodge trucks and Jeep Grand Cherokee. I see them all the time at junkyards. If they can move a truck, they should have no problem w/ your lighter C-body, and they are built for torque. People swap them into A-bodies, so should be do-able. You use the computer and engine harness, and just connect a few wires (12 V, IGN, ...). You will need a longer sliding yoke drive-shaft, which would probably have to be from a C-body. It is easier to go the other way, shortening a driveshaft to fit an A-body. You can rig a shifter from Lokar parts.

 

[CBODY67]

'65 Chryslers were column shift or floor shift. Last year for push buttons/cable was '64.

Aside from the physical mounting issues, almost everything on the engine is on opposite sides, so that means a great amount of wiring changes under the hood. The single exhaust for LA-motor C-bodies ran on the lh side, B/RB-motor C-bodies was on the rh side.

A friend's father had a '67 Polara and the orig 383 had major issues. It was decided to swap a 318 in its place (the LA 318 was the "standard V-8", 383 optional). Of course, it did fit, but the wiring "mess" under the hood was "hacked" AND obvious.

IF you're ever going to consider putting a B/RB engine back in the car, you might consider using wiring connectors (kind of like an auxiliary fuse block) for the interface rather than splicing with abandon, under the hood.

It all sounds so easy, as it's "production-based", until you start doing it, by observation.

CBODY67

 

[65 500]

'65 Chryslers were column shift or floor shift. Last year for push buttons/cable was '64.

'65 still used cables, just not push buttons.

 

[Bighead440]

Leave it 383, that's my suggestion. NO the 318 "A" Poly WILL NOT mate to your "B" series trans bellhousing. Back in high school, a friend of mine inherited his Grandpa's 1965 Fury III 2dr.htp. with Poly 318 power. It ran fine, pulled okay with factory 2.93 gears, etc. until his Dad had someone (a Chevy guy) "supertune" it, and it ran like dogs#it from then on (valves overtightened, timing way off, etc.). Out of frustration we swapped a '72 400 BB in (had to fab that pesky left side motor mount bracket) and had to get a '65 Monaco 383 trans core and have it rebuilt to work with the cable linkage. What a pain in the ***, just leave it alone and put a different 383 or even a 440 in your lighter chassis. Believe me, the funds and aggravation saved by leaving your '65 intact will finance the race car swap!!

 

[Ripinator]

Because the 383 is getting a new home in a MUCH lighter vehicle in the spring. And I'm not worried about speed I just want to be able to cruise in town with it. If I could find a decent 383 for the price I can get the 318 for ($200 COMPLETE carb to pan) I'd buy it instead.

I know $200 sounds like a deal, but how much is your time worth? You are gonna spend many aggravating hours trying to get this un-holy combination to work. I bet you could find another 383 out there for about the same money. . .

 

[Big_John]

My 2¢....

If you are building a "Bobber" and a low rider, and fabrication doesn't scare you, then this is all up to you how to do this. You'll need to fabricate motor mounts along with some sort of shifter. You might be able to use the upper part of the mount and build/adapt to the lower mounts. There are aftermarket shifters that you can use, or build something on your own, but obviously the stock stuff isn't going to work.

If you are looking to make it easy.... Then take a long look at putting the 318 combo in the bobber. Unless you are planning to go through the 383, it ain't gonna be a tire roaster anyway... The 318 is lighter, easier to fit into whatever frame you are using etc. Probably gonna be just as fast and cost you less money. Then leave the 383 where it is.

 

[traintech55]

So your looking to put this 383 into say an "A" body car? You will be WAY money and time ahead, just buying a core engine and building it up for your race car project, and enjoy the Chrysler as your tow car.

 

[Big_John]

So your looking to put this 383 into say an "A" body car?

I think he's building a "bobber" truck.

 

[twostick]

'65 Chryslers were column shift or floor shift. Last year for push buttons/cable was '64.

Aside from the physical mounting issues, almost everything on the engine is on opposite sides, so that means a great amount of wiring changes under the hood. The single exhaust for LA-motor C-bodies ran on the lh side, B/RB-motor C-bodies was on the rh side.

A friend's father had a '67 Polara and the orig 383 had major issues. It was decided to swap a 318 in its place (the LA 318 was the "standard V-8", 383 optional). Of course, it did fit, but the wiring "mess" under the hood was "hacked" AND obvious.

IF you're ever going to consider putting a B/RB engine back in the car, you might consider using wiring connectors (kind of like an auxiliary fuse block) for the interface rather than splicing with abandon, under the hood.

It all sounds so easy, as it's "production-based", until you start doing it, by observation.

CBODY67

What wiring is on the opposite side?

The only major difference that I can think of is that the distributor is in the rear on a small block instead of the front.

Battery is in the same place as is the alternator and starter.

Exhaust on my 65 Polara with a Poly exits on the right side. I don't recall seeing a left exit unless it was a /6.

I am however with the majority here that would just leave the 383 where it is. Just find a 440 to put in the lighter car if going fast is your goal. It will be less effort in the end than what you are proposing here.

Kevin

 

[twostick]

If you are building something like that truck above, a warmed up 318 is more than capable of scaring the $hit out of you.

Kevin

 

[traintech55]

65 Chryslers were column shift or floor shift. Last year for push buttons/cable was '64.

Just to clarify this,
1. 1964 was the last year for the push button shifter.
2. 1965 although Chrysler did switch to a column, or floor shifter it still used a cable instead of hard linkage.
3. 1966 and up used hard linkage and a different case for the transmissions.
4. A 1966 or newer transmission will not fit a 1965.

 

[oliver]

Please help prevent another C-Body from being lost and keep the 383 in the Newport. Thanks.

 

[Bighead440]

I think he's building a "bobber" truck.

My partner's 383 Rat Truck.. '65 300 4dr. engine/727 trans/8.75"-3.55 gears.
View attachment 147740

 

[fury fan]

I agree with Twostick, that 65 Poly mount will be hard to find. I looked for years for even a usable picture, to figure out if a Maggie would fit in a 65 C. Finally found a mount, but OMG was that part elusive.

I'd bet that a 318 Mag (with all the benefits that brings over an LA), the OD trans, and a set of 3.91 gears (to match the OD) would make that C-cruiser change a lot of minds vs a -516-headed 383 2-barrel. And a small cam change (maybe 260°) and that Hughes Airgap intake would wake it up the Mag even more.