Sorry about not being more clear. I do have a set of reconditioned Power brake 4-speed pedals from Brewers when they had them in stock and I’m going back to a Manual setup on my disc-drum combo because of Vacuum issues with a sold flat Tappet cam. I haven’t installed the pedals yet and just wanted to see if the Power set would work for a manual setup. Thank You for your response.no idea what ur asking
Hi Ross, Thank You for your quick response. I bought a set of 4-speed Power pedals from Brewers many years ago and haven’t installed them yet and wanted to know if they would work on the Manual setup. You have answered that question for me. Thank You very much. I just checked Brewers webpage and they’re out of stock with the Manual.No - the leverage in a power brake pedal setup is NOT enough for a manual disc system. You need a manual brake pedal - it has greater leverage.
The other way around (using a manual pedal on a power brake system) is doable, but not really recommended.
I assume your car is a four speed - therefore, there are MANY manual brake manual trans pedal sets out there if you wanted to swap to manual brakes in your car, however, POWER brake manual trans pedal sets are very rare. You could sell the power brake setup and make all the money to buy the manual brake pedal set and have a handsome profit too.
Hey Ross, I was thinking about going with a 15/16” Master cylinder bore for the Manual setup. Dr. Diff sells one that I think would work.Looks like we both posted at the same time! Lol!
Thanks for clarifying the bigger picture.
You need to ensure that the master cylinder you choose has the proper bore for use in a manual brake system along with the manual brake pedal setup - then things will be fine.
You may (likely will) experience severely underpowered brakes if you use the power brake pedal in a manual brake setup. I don't condone it.
I bet you can find a manual set quite easily. Good luck.
1965 Plymouth Sport Fury. Originally had a 383 auto, engine and trans were gone when I bought the car. Upgrading to 440, Manual.What car are we talking about Here?
Hi Jake, I do see what you’re saying about sticking with the Power setup. It took me years to procure all of the stock components to upgrade to discs on the front. I’m right on the border line with a solid flat Tappet cam I chose. It’s 236 and 242 at .050 lift. Lift is .501 intake, and .511 exhaust, so I think it might be an issue with vacuum. So that’s why I’m just kicking around the idea of going with the Manual setup. Lots of great advice from everybody that has responded. Thanx to everyone. It helps to make an informed decision.Highly recommend looking into vacuum issues and sticking with power brakes.
Hi Ross, I was actually lucky enough to get a 67 Bendix dual- diaphragm booster a long time ago and had it sent out to Booster Dewey for a rebuild. In your experience, do the vacuum canisters get the job done. Could you recommend which ones are better? ThanxSo - if things are cammed up enough to make vacuum for accessories less than ideal, you may wish to look at using a vacuum pump and tank to assist the power brakes, and keep your pedals. However, getting the right disc brake booster (Bendix Dual Diaphragm) presents its own challenge!!
Luckily, since your car is a floor shift, you have choice - you can use the 70 and later single diaphragm disc booster which is much easier to find.
Thank You Ross, Great advice. I believe it would be wise to just go with everything I’ve been rounding up over the years. Plus it’s all Chrysler stock items.I don't have personal experience with a canister and pump, but if that's the only concern, I'd do some hard investigation into it before going down the road of a mix and match manual disc brake setup - too much potential for needing to fiddle around and face dissatisfaction, when you've got the proven setup in your possession.
Thanx for the link Ross. Lots to choose fromI saw a bunch just now on Amazon:
Amazon.com : universal power brake booster 12v electric vacuum pump kit