RTE IVR3 install on a 66 Polara/Monaco gauge

edbods

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2024
Messages
86
Reaction score
29
Location
Australia
I've got four eyes but it seems that still isn't enough for me...how do I wire the IVR3 limiter up? The voltage limiter appears to be built into the water temp gauge, I've bent the bimetallic strip back but not sure which terminals to connect the pins on the limiter. My setup is as below:
1725499845194.png

My gauge didn't come with a condenser, probably because it didn't come with a radio. As such, the three studs of the temp gauge are what you see in the edited pic above.
The limiter I've currently got secured in the position that you see in the above pic, via the lone screw that, by all appearances, doesn't have a connection to the underlying trace. I've kept it clear of the board by using a washer, so there's about a 1-2mm gap between the back of the limiter, and the circuit board.
Am I right in that the female spade on the limiter goes to stud #2, then one of the male spades goes to #3?
 
I think I figured it out...almost had it right the first time; limiter output (i.e. the female spade terminal) goes to stud #1 in that pic, while limiter input (male spade) goes to #3.
 
I think you have it right for the fuel gauge, but I'm not sure if the temperature gauge will work unless the internal voltage limiter is bypassed by something like a jumper wire. Or is that why you've bent the bi-metallic strip?
 
Yeah that's why I bent the strip. I thought it's bypassed by the new limiter when connecting them to the #1 and #3 studs.
I probably didn't even need to bend the strip; the riveted contact on the back of the piece of metal that the strip touches was actually broken off.
 
Yeah that's why I bent the strip. I thought it's bypassed by the new limiter when connecting them to the #1 and #3 studs.
I probably didn't even need to bend the strip; the riveted contact on the back of the piece of metal that the strip touches was actually broken off.
I was thinking that it would have to have a jumper wire rather than disconnected.

Whatever you do, please let us know because there's a bunch of cars with the voltage limiter in the tamp gauge.
 
Took a look at both the wiring diagram and the actual water temp limiter, and it all seems good. In fact, it's pretty much like how it's done for the other models that have the internal voltage limiter. Below is how to wire it up:
1725657122931.png

G2 comes from the temp sending unit. The green line indicates that the S stud is connected to the limiter output stud at all times. The 12V and 5V studs have the bimetallic strip that regulates the voltage; this is what gets bent, and the RTE limiter acts as the jumper (and limiter) instead. I used 16 gauge wire to hook everything up, and bolted down the limiter itself to the only screw that didn't seem to have continuity with the circuit board, while also adding a washer to allow a gap between the limiter and the rest of the board:
1725657547662.png

Have yet to test it, but theoretically...it should work.
Edit: awww yisss it works! Fuel gauge goes up and down as intended.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top