Seeking Advice on Oil Sending Unit Location

My 68 300 with 440 is back of block close to the firewall. Hard to see, angled towards driver side. I think all 440's the same.
 
Back behind the air cleaner and intake right before the bell housing on the top of the engine.
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I kind of wondered if that could be done by removing other plug, I thought about that with mine, have 2 seperate monitors.
 
I kind of wondered if that could be done by removing other plug, I thought about that with mine, have 2 seperate monitors.
Yes, that opens right into the same oil passage. I think it was there so the oil passage between the left and right oil galley could be drilled during production.
 
And you can make a tee at that location if you want to use the dash oil light AND a pressure gage (the large shiny unit). Piping connections are at any hardware store.

View attachment 711923
Just be aware. The mass of the sensors may cause the fittings to break. I had a nipple break and I suspect that the part was chinesium brass…
 
As the Imperials had a "Master Gauge" light plus an oil pressure gauge on the dash, there might be TWO units on the block for such. The shorter one in the image is for a light. The larger, bell-shaped one is for a gauge. Perhaps a FSM indicates how the Imperial items mount back there? Using the same hole or both holes? I concur about the weight of the combined items in one brass fitting possibly causing fatigue issues of the soft brass.

How the "Master Gauge" operates might be an issue. If it runs from all of the various sensors or used a contact on each gauge to trigger that light?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
As the Imperials had a "Master Gauge" light plus an oil pressure gauge on the dash, there might be TWO units on the block for such. The shorter one in the image is for a light. The larger, bell-shaped one is for a gauge. Perhaps a FSM indicates how the Imperial items mount back there? Using the same hole or both holes? I concur about the weight of the combined items in one brass fitting possibly causing fatigue issues of the soft brass.

How the "Master Gauge" operates might be an issue. If it runs from all of the various sensors or used a contact on each gauge to trigger that light?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Thank you very much !!
 
As the Imperials had a "Master Gauge" light plus an oil pressure gauge on the dash, there might be TWO units on the block for such. The shorter one in the image is for a light. The larger, bell-shaped one is for a gauge. Perhaps a FSM indicates how the Imperial items mount back there? Using the same hole or both holes? I concur about the weight of the combined items in one brass fitting possibly causing fatigue issues of the soft brass.

How the "Master Gauge" operates might be an issue. If it runs from all of the various sensors or used a contact on each gauge to trigger that light?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Thank you very much !!
 
As the Imperials had a "Master Gauge" light plus an oil pressure gauge on the dash, there might be TWO units on the block for such. The shorter one in the image is for a light. The larger, bell-shaped one is for a gauge. Perhaps a FSM indicates how the Imperial items mount back there? Using the same hole or both holes? I concur about the weight of the combined items in one brass fitting possibly causing fatigue issues of the soft brass.

How the "Master Gauge" operates might be an issue. If it runs from all of the various sensors or used a contact on each gauge to trigger that light?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Thank you very much !!
 
Just be aware. The mass of the sensors may cause the fittings to break. I had a nipple break and I suspect that the part was chinesium brass…
Indeed, you certainly don't want a tall "tree" of piping vibrating and the fracturing. Keep 'em short as possible.

Fortunately, I have a bunch of 1/8th NPT nipples and fittings from the early 80's....definitely not Chinesium.
 
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