Stalling Fury.

[Micmaynard]

1970 Fury III, stock 318, I finally got the suspension and alignment sorted out so I decided it was safe to go to a cars and coffee show this morning. It was warm, 80-ish, not sunny, around 40 minutes of highway at 55-65.
seeing as this is the first real highway this car has seen in at least 5 years, it was a fantastic ride and a great show. I stayed at the show for +/- 2 hours, got back in the car, and headed home.
Around 3/4 of the way home, I decided to get off the highway and take back roads the rest of the way.
Here's the issue: at the bottom of the exit is a stop, where the car started running rough and nearly stalled. it did stall at the next intersection, and I had to drive two-footed at the following three stop signs until I got home. it was barely idling when I pulled into the driveway. I did notice that at the stop signs, I got a quick whiff of very rich exhaust.
Temp and oil pressure were normal.
let the car sit for an hour or so and restarted it, it wasn't hard to start, but it did run rough and smelled rich.

Before I dive in and start chasing my tail, I figured I would ask some seasoned veterans!

 

[halifaxhops]

Really have to see if it is a fuel problem or ignition can be either, have to find it when it happens yes a PIA

 

[CBODY67]

To me, the easiest thing to get off is the BBD 2bbl carb. Look for sloshing sounds in the brass floats. Also look at the tops of the brass tubes that stick up above the venturis, in the venturi cluster. Those are calibrated air bleeds, they need to be fully open without obstructions in them. If they close up, that sends the idle mixture toward the rich end of the scale on each venturi. If one was obstructed on the bottom of them, as in the solid brass tube without holes in its side, that would restrict idle fuel flow and the car would not idle after it got warmed up and came off of the automatic choke.

On my '80 Newport 360 2bbl, mine would not hot base idle after it came off of the fast idle cam. If I backed out of the throttle to slow down for an off-ramp, it'd die at 60mph. Finally found out about the "Low Speed Jet" near the bottom of the idle feed tube. It's flow car cleaner, but it was caked with hard deposits. After I got a twist drill set and went large enough to "get brass", problem vanished.

Being a '70, presuming it still has ignition points? Check the dwell reading. Then maybe test the current condenser against another good used one like it. If electronic, might need a new quality control box.

I suspect the plugs are sooty, so you can pull them and run a bent-wire gap gauge through them to clean the sparking surfaces. Maybe also knocking off the soot from the ground electrode, too.

Please let us know what you find,
CBODY67

 

[Micmaynard]

So, by "sloshing in the brass floats" you mean that the float may have a leak and gas may be inside the float causing it not to... float?

 

[CBODY67]

So, by "sloshing in the brass floats" you mean that the float may have a leak and gas may be inside the float causing it not to... float?

Yep. Requires new floats, unless you drill a new hole to drain them, then silver-solder that hole shut.

CBODY67

 

[Jakter]

I agree about the idle circuit in the carburetor.
If you haven't put a carb kit in it in years, I would start there with a cleaning and a kit.

 

[Micmaynard]

The carb looks terrible as it is right now, I think I'm going to bit the bullet and buy a rebuild kit. How hard could it be...

 

[Jakter]

Yep. Requires new floats, unless you drill a new hole to drain them, then silver-solder that hole shut.

CBODY67

I had a hard time soldering a float years ago. The heated expanding air would blow a hole in the solder. I eventually got it but I'm certain I did not use silver solder.

Is silver solder the trick to getting a seal easier?

 

[halifaxhops]

To me, the easiest thing to get off is the BBD 2bbl carb. Look for sloshing sounds in the brass floats. Also look at the tops of the brass tubes that stick up above the venturis, in the venturi cluster. Those are calibrated air bleeds, they need to be fully open without obstructions in them. If they close up, that sends the idle mixture toward the rich end of the scale on each venturi. If one was obstructed on the bottom of them, as in the solid brass tube without holes in its side, that would restrict idle fuel flow and the car would not idle after it got warmed up and came off of the automatic choke.

On my '80 Newport 360 2bbl, mine would not hot base idle after it came off of the fast idle cam. If I backed out of the throttle to slow down for an off-ramp, it'd die at 60mph. Finally found out about the "Low Speed Jet" near the bottom of the idle feed tube. It's flow car cleaner, but it was caked with hard deposits. After I got a twist drill set and went large enough to "get brass", problem vanished.

Being a '70, presuming it still has ignition points? Check the dwell reading. Then maybe test the current condenser against another good used one like it. If electronic, might need a new quality control box.

I suspect the plugs are sooty, so you can pull them and run a bent-wire gap gauge through them to clean the sparking surfaces. Maybe also knocking off the soot from the ground electrode, too.

Please let us know what you find,
CBODY67

So you got it?