Stalls when put in drive!

[scamp13]

Hello, recently bought a 1962 Chrysler 300. She has a 383 with the push-button trans. Car starts and idles fine, But when put into drive stalls out. Does anyone have a idea what would cause this. Any help would be Great. Thanks

 

[Big_John]

First thing I would try is to bump the idle speed up just a little and see if that does anything.

From there... basic stuff... Make sure the choke is working correctly Check the timing and point gap, maybe new plugs etc. Check the fuel pump volume. After that start looking for vacuum leaks.

 

[detmatt]

Big John has got you pointed in the right direction so welcome to the site from the Motor City! You added a picture without prompting so you're off to a good start, now tell us your story with it.

 

[commando1]

Welcome to FCBO. You came to the right place.
Yes, as stated above, any and every screw on the carb should be turned in and out to see what happens.

 

[Fratzog]

Great looking car. Welcome aboard. If you don`t have one get a FSM. As mentioned a brief history, plans and a few more pics would be great.

 

[70NPORT]

Taking a long shot but, crimp in fuel line somewhere? Just enough to allow idle but starves the carb out when you open it up a little? I would check that out too. At this point nothing should be dismissed. You'd probably get brief smell of gas fumes though however.

 

[Adebrea]

sounds like timing to me warm it up, block the wheels and put it in gear to check the timing and if thats right check for vacuum leaks. take a hand propane torch and turn the gas on but don't light it and run it along the intake manifold gaskets, vacuum lines, and around the carb. if there is a leak the engine will rev up slightly when it sucks the propane in. if no leaks are found then either the carb settings are wrong or you have bad plugs/wires/dist. cap

 

[bajajoaquin]

I would start with the plugs, wires, timing, cap, rotor and points. It's not necessarily more likely to be those things, but it could be, and you'll want to do them anyway. They are all pretty easy things to do, and will familiarize you with the stuff under the hood.

 

[1978 NYB]

All good ideas.

I would start with a good tune up.

I would then use carb cleaner (I myself play on the dangerous side with ether) and spray the intake manifold gasket area and carb mounting gasket area using a straw so I can't concentrate the spray to the exact gasket area. If the engine RPM's go up.....you have a leak. I also check anything hooked up to vacuum. I'll conduct this check immediately after start up on a cool engine......never on a hot engine.

 

[Dale Michaels]

I would check the timing chain,,my 70 T&C wagon did this,,it would start and idle just fine,,I could rev the motor also,but as soon as I put in gear it would die,I did the plugs/wires and even rebuilt the carb twice,but in the end it was the nylon cam gear missing all it's teeth.

 

[saylor]

mine was bad carb / misadjusted carb when my car was doing this. I had bought a reman 2bbl carb from summit, and the idle circuit in the carb was not adjusted / set correctly. it was so far out of spec it could not be adjusted properly. I ended up sending it back and they sent me another one - bolted right on and worked fine out of the box.

to the point of the posts above ^^ clean the hell out of your carb. maybe even remove it from the intake and clean it or go get it rebuilt or something. or buy one from summit and bolt it on. I'd do that before chasing vacuum leaks if it can sit there and idle with no issues.

 

[Pete Kaczmarski]

My money is with the choke on the carb. Either with its function or adjustment. Refer to you factory service manual. Have someone watch its function on a cold start up and as it slightly opens up before putting the car into gear. Let us know what happens.

 

[BillGrissom]

I had a 69 Dart slant six that acted like that for years. Usually wouldn't stall, but would idle much slower and rough in D or R. The 4th carb fixed it. Most commonly, this is due to running too lean at idle. First, check for a vacuum leak. Plug the hose to the brake booster. Insure the carburetor base gasket is tight. Some claim flowing propane (or spraying carb cleaner or starting fluid) around all intake seals can find it (engine smooths out), but never worked for me. Could also be you need more spark advance at idle. I think ~15 deg BTDC usually works better than the book value. It could also just be marginal overall and the extra load shows it. It almost certainly isn't the transmission. If you don't care about original, you can get a new electronic distributor w/ HEI module for your car for just $60 on ebay that should give a better idle and mileage.

 

[tdenkler]

Torque Converter. Did you put warmer cam in? Stock converter won't hold much over 1000 rpm.
Saw this in a hopped up Dart.
He put 2500 stall converter in, worked fine. He could not keep motor from stalling EVERY time he put it in gear!

 

[carsucharda]

i had an issue once where one of the vacuum lines to the carb was attached to a breather on the valve cover and the breather started to leak to atmosphere. the car would idle just fine then immediately die in d. i did a bunch of things including spray the engine with carb cleaner but that didnt find it. my suggestion is to plug off any vacuum lines to the carb one by one and check if you can keep it running in drive.

 

[commando1]

I had a vacuum leak I chased for months. No matter what trick I used, I couldn't find it which kept me thinking it had to be something else causing the symptoms. Extremely frustrating.
One day I had to change a fuse under the dash and when I stuck my head in there, I hear a pfffffffffffffffffffff...
Damn automatic parking brake release....

 

[BillGrissom]

Lots of replies. Can we hear back from the O.P. or were we just wasting our time trying to help?

 

[Big_John]

I'd bet you aren't gonna hear back until the next problem.

 

[polara71]

Another "just passing through“?

 

[commando1]

Many enlist but can't make it through boot camp.