67 Fury III, 383 2 barrel
Problem at idle: fire up and run fine. Will sit and idle. Once up to temp, it stalls. It won’t start again until cool. Or if it does start, it doesn’t stay running. Even if pumping the gas.
Problem driving: if I fire up the car and drive it I can do 2 circuits of the neighborhood and it just dies, in almost the exact spot every time. Acts like out of fuel. If I pump the gas it just coughs and sputters , but still won’t stay running. Restarting is same as above. Best to let cool, then it fine.
What I’ve done so far: (some related some not. Some helped a little. Seems to be a collection of little problems I’m eliminating as I go, but still stalls)
New timing chain and water pump
New cap, rotor, plugs, wires, points and condenser
New ballast resistor (found 12v going to coil) now I have 10v
New coil, in case the old one was cooked
Replaced voltage regulator
New fuel pump
Remanufactured carb
Rerouted fuel line and covered it in heat shielding
Check the exhaust manifold flap to see if it was seized closed (it has been removed by previous owner)
Cleaned all contacts at firewall plugs
Found slightly melted wire that went to ballast resistor (feed wire) replaced it.
Also found melted wires from the alternator and replaced them.
The results: after fixing the melted wires the will idle but when it normally just dies quick, now the rpm’s drop to about 700 from 1000. Then jump back up to 1000 for few seconds then drop again to 700. It does this several times, going back and forth like a switch bring flicked on and off. Then die. Also noticed my amp meter was reading low, when I tried to rev it up, car died.
I then disconnected the alternator with the same results as above, but tested the alternator output while not hooked up to the car. It was all over the place bouncing around 3v to 17v and everything in between.
So I replaced the alternator.
Still the same stalling problem.
Someone suggested carb again. So I turned the idle screws out 3.5 turns each. Then slowly turned them in half turn each until the engine started to stumble, then back out a half turn.
It seemed to work. Car idles for awhile. I fixed it I thought.
Until I did my 2 laps around the neighborhood and it died in its usual spot. I backed the idle screws out another half turn. Fired up and did a half lap, died again. Both times I looked in the carb to see if I could see gas shooting in when I pumped the gas. Yes I could.
Backed out the screws again, fired up and made it back to my driveway. Then while idling in the driveway it died. Tried starting and it is turning slow. Temp is in the normal range. So I’m thinking battery. Checked it has 12.4 v
That’s where I am. Where do I go from here? I’m still thinking it’s electrical like there is a draw somewhere. Though adjusting the carb did seem to help.
I’m about to go checking wiring under the dash. I know all the power goes through the amp gauge. Could it be that? Carburetors and electrical are my 2 weakest spots in my knowledge. I’m at a loss.
Help please.
Problem at idle: fire up and run fine. Will sit and idle. Once up to temp, it stalls. It won’t start again until cool. Or if it does start, it doesn’t stay running. Even if pumping the gas.
Problem driving: if I fire up the car and drive it I can do 2 circuits of the neighborhood and it just dies, in almost the exact spot every time. Acts like out of fuel. If I pump the gas it just coughs and sputters , but still won’t stay running. Restarting is same as above. Best to let cool, then it fine.
What I’ve done so far: (some related some not. Some helped a little. Seems to be a collection of little problems I’m eliminating as I go, but still stalls)
New timing chain and water pump
New cap, rotor, plugs, wires, points and condenser
New ballast resistor (found 12v going to coil) now I have 10v
New coil, in case the old one was cooked
Replaced voltage regulator
New fuel pump
Remanufactured carb
Rerouted fuel line and covered it in heat shielding
Check the exhaust manifold flap to see if it was seized closed (it has been removed by previous owner)
Cleaned all contacts at firewall plugs
Found slightly melted wire that went to ballast resistor (feed wire) replaced it.
Also found melted wires from the alternator and replaced them.
The results: after fixing the melted wires the will idle but when it normally just dies quick, now the rpm’s drop to about 700 from 1000. Then jump back up to 1000 for few seconds then drop again to 700. It does this several times, going back and forth like a switch bring flicked on and off. Then die. Also noticed my amp meter was reading low, when I tried to rev it up, car died.
I then disconnected the alternator with the same results as above, but tested the alternator output while not hooked up to the car. It was all over the place bouncing around 3v to 17v and everything in between.
So I replaced the alternator.
Still the same stalling problem.
Someone suggested carb again. So I turned the idle screws out 3.5 turns each. Then slowly turned them in half turn each until the engine started to stumble, then back out a half turn.
It seemed to work. Car idles for awhile. I fixed it I thought.
Until I did my 2 laps around the neighborhood and it died in its usual spot. I backed the idle screws out another half turn. Fired up and did a half lap, died again. Both times I looked in the carb to see if I could see gas shooting in when I pumped the gas. Yes I could.
Backed out the screws again, fired up and made it back to my driveway. Then while idling in the driveway it died. Tried starting and it is turning slow. Temp is in the normal range. So I’m thinking battery. Checked it has 12.4 v
That’s where I am. Where do I go from here? I’m still thinking it’s electrical like there is a draw somewhere. Though adjusting the carb did seem to help.
I’m about to go checking wiring under the dash. I know all the power goes through the amp gauge. Could it be that? Carburetors and electrical are my 2 weakest spots in my knowledge. I’m at a loss.
Help please.
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