steering motor overhaul

ALLAN

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the steering motor (not the pump)on my 1970 Polara needs an overhaul, weeping from shafts and generaly lazy,question is, should I boldly go and do it myself or get a recon? I'm told setting them up can be 'interesting'. Are there different types? I notice there are different seal kits available, if so, are the differences obvious ? I can only find some numbers on the casting, no names.
 
I suspect by "motor", you're referring to what we would call "gearbox" and what Chrysler terms "chuck".

As an aside, IF the fluid in the unit is red in color, my experience with hoses indicates that only a fluid change to a Genuine Chrysler-spec power steering fluid for the model year of vehicle you have might be all that's needed, or at least might help. In our Chryslers, as they went from recently-new to "used", I always kept the correct fluid in them, which is clear and a little waxy looking. NO seal leaks or seeps through the rubber in the hoses. Period. But if the fluid in the cars I bought had a red tint, there usually were seeps and such. I drained the reservoir, replaced that fluid with Chrysler or GM Power Steering Fluid (this was in the 1980s), repeating as the flush progressed, and the seeps through the rubber in the hoses stopped. IF here might have been some exterior o-ring leaks, they were fixed, but the basic gearboxes have never been into. Perhaps I'm lucky, but on multiple cars?

In the USA, Valvoline has a line of "Max-Life" lubricants which are for high-mileage vehicles, so these lubes have a small amount of "seal conditioner" or "seal sweller" additive to help lessen/stop leaks from seal wear against metal shafts, for example. That fluid is clear, too.

The issue with seal leaks against metal shafts is that with time, the seal can wear a shallow groove into the shaft, which means that even a new seal will not stop the leak for long, as it too wears. Many times, replacement seals are repositioned slightly in their metal housing, to put the seal surface in a slightly different location where "new" metal can be sealed against, sometimes.

So, although many of the seals that might be leaking CAN be replaced, you'll probably be better off in the long run to get a reman unit, keeping your existing unit and paying the core charge. Places like RockAuto.com probably sells them, as do other USA auto supply chains. There are a few Chrysler-specific steering gear rebuilders/vendors in the Indiana and Ohio areas. Firm-Feel and Steer and Gear are their names. I have no personal experience with them, but you might contact them for information and "how to proceed", remembering what business they are in, at the same time.

Rebuilding a power steering gearbox can get complicated and require many special tools and such. NOT something the average mechanic might undertake with just wrenches and sockets. Changing the outer shaft seals and such might be the easiest things to do in the garage, BUT as others in other forums have discovered, their gearboxes also have enough wear on their internals that they can't be rebuilt (worse case scenario). As a result, they take a different course into the Borgeson website for upgrading to a later model gearbox (usually from a late-model Jeep Grand Cherokee application) for "Modern Feel and responsiveness". More money but a good alternative for continued parts support of an OEM application.

I'm speaking in generalities, not knowing which specific model year of Chrysler product you might have. Others might have more specific information and recommendations.

CBODY67
 
The issue with seal leaks against metal shafts is... the seal can wear a shallow groove into the shaft,
So, although many of the seals that might be leaking CAN be replaced, you'll probably be better off in the long run to get a reman unit...
I refuse to believe any companies "remanufacturing" steering boxes these days are replacing the shafts, if they are grooved. New seals, close enough, ship it.
 
My guess after all these years is it is just plain worn out. If you are mechanically inclined and your steering box performs good just leaks, I would rebuild what you have. If not buy a rebuilt one. They are pretty much the same with some different specs by year.
 
My guess after all these years is it is just plain worn out. If you are mechanically inclined and your steering box performs good just leaks, I would rebuild what you have. If not buy a rebuilt one. They are pretty much the same with some different specs by year.
Other than seals, where do you find replacements for the wornout hard pieces?
Raiding a dz used boxes?
 
I went the part store reman route and am satisfied with the unit I got. a lot of ppl go firmfeel.

the 'interesting' thing you mention - you may be talking about the possibility of getting the balance out of center - there is an adjusto screw that is left/right bias. if you crank that too far to one side or the other, the steering will ( possibly violently ) turn that direction, power assisted. if you are travelling down a road, you will quickly be in the ditch when this happens.


try not to die -

- saylor
 
I refuse to believe any companies "remanufacturing" steering boxes these days are replacing the shafts, if they are grooved. New seals, close enough, ship it.

At the "Rebuilder level of things", they can get those "oversize seals" needed to compensate for the "grooves". Polish them to remove the burrs, turn them town, put a stainless steel sleeve over that section, re-weld and machine . . . what ever works for them, it can be done in the reman operation. Not unlike the stainless steel sleeves for the front crankshaft seals that have been around for ages. In the realm of rear axle seals, some seal manufacturers state that they reposition the seal inside of the metal housing, so it seals again "different metal" than what the orig seal contacted (and worn against).

NOW, some rebuilders might do everything that another rebuilder might do! It's NOT a generic process! "Rebuild" is not necessarily the same thing as "Remanufacture", by observation.

CBODY67
 
At the "Rebuilder level of things", they can get those "oversize seals" needed to compensate for the "grooves". Polish them to remove the burrs, turn them town, put a stainless steel sleeve over that section, re-weld and machine . . . what ever works for them, it can be done in the reman operation. Not unlike the stainless steel sleeves for the front crankshaft seals that have been around for ages. In the realm of rear axle seals, some seal manufacturers state that they reposition the seal inside of the metal housing, so it seals again "different metal" than what the orig seal contacted (and worn against).

NOW, some rebuilders might do everything that another rebuilder might do! It's NOT a generic process! "Rebuild" is not necessarily the same thing as "Remanufacture", by observation.

CBODY67
Please don't ask me to believe Cardone does all that.
 
The sector gears and the recirculating balls, "worm gear" are the only things that are wearing, and do not get replaced. If the balls and it's worm gear track are worn it would drive so poorly and so much effort you have to know it pretty much scrap iron before it comes out. The sector gears are another bad spot but they only turn maybe ninety degrees, so barring it being in a flood for 3 weeks galling the hell out of the teeth chances are it is okay to use.
Most of the play is from worn thrust bearings or lack of preload. This can be seen on the box by sector shaft or pitman arm up and down movement, correctable to some extent by top adjusting screw. The worst offender in loose steering is the input shaft/worm gear in and out. I've seen many that have over a 1/8" in and out movement and according to FSM, I believe it is spec'd at .004...... there is your loose feel.
If you open it up and find bad galling of ball track and or teeth on sector I would scrap it.
 
Most of the play is from worn thrust bearings or lack of preload. This can be seen on the box by sector shaft or pitman arm up and down movement, correctable to some extent by top adjusting screw. The worst offender in loose steering is the input shaft/worm gear in and out. I've seen many that have over a 1/8" in and out movement and according to FSM, I believe it is spec'd at .004...... there is your loose feel.
If you open it up and find bad galling of ball track and or teeth on sector I would scrap it.

Adjusting the "top adjustment" affects only that one segment of the operation. The input side wear will not be affected, as I found out years ago on my '70 Monaco. There is an adjustment up there, too, but takes a special tool to do it right.

CBODY67
 
Adjusting the "top adjustment" affects only that one segment of the operation. The input side wear will not be affected, as I found out years ago on my '70 Monaco. There is an adjustment up there, too, but takes a special tool to do it right.

CBODY67
Yes.
Special tool and a ***** to move being aluminum in a steel case. Throw in battery tray, exhaust manifold and a big block, good luck. Better off pulling it out, and at that point why not throw a $30 kit in it.
 
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