Sub-frame Isolators/Insulators on Fuseys

[Husky]

Any of you Fusey owners had to change any of the sub frame isolators? You know those rubber frame isolators, under the radiator yoke, 2 each side on the subframe outrigger under each front door and one each side at the rear of the subframe ...i.e. the fusey only "torsion quiet" feature?

Yesterday I noticed one of the bolts on the subframe outrigger (in the frame under the drivers side) was pretty badly corroded. When I attempted to remove the bolt it cam out along with a pile of rust. What I believe was once a 1/2" bolt (only because it has a 3/4" hex head) was reduced to a rusted 1/4" dia slither which snapped the minute I applied torque to it.

My follow up question is does anyone know if these isolators are still available? In my searching also stumbled across an old Chrysler TSB that goes into detail about the precautions required when replacing these frame mounts - apparenty if not done corrctly, the front fenders can buckle!. If these are not available I'm goig to somehow have to drill out the old rusted bolt and repair it somehow. Not sure how safe to drive like this. What can I say, more worries and headaches!

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[Mr C]

You shouldn't need to replace the rubber isolator, just the bolt. Pull up the carpet and it will be right there. You should not drive without replaceing the bolt.

 

[polarus]

I've looked for new rubber isolators for my Polara but I haven't been able to find any. Doe's anybody repro. these?

 

[Husky]

Thanks Mr C, I did think about that and will check it out. Note, the bolt and washer is so corroded that it has eaten away part of the rubber insulator. Further, this insulator mates with what is called an insert which appears to be the part that rusted away with what was left of the bolt. I have yet to check under the carpet, but I cannot imagine how the threaded portion of this bolt would simply thread into the floor pan under the carpet. I suspect this would be an underlying problem many fusey owners might face without actually realizing it

 

[commando1]

I'm not being facetious when I say this but I once read a tech tip is some Mopar mag a long time ago that said to use (machined down) hockey pucks.
Really.
Don't shoot the messenger.......

 

[Husky]

Hey, Polaris, did you try undoing the bolts that hold these things in place? Mine were so badly corroded it simply broke off leaving part of the stud in place. I'm not game to undo the one next to it in case it too breaks. I'm beginning to get really concerned about what to do next. It appears the whole car body is effectively held on by a few bolts which may all be well rusted out! Yet more problems I don't need.

 

[Husky]

Don't know about hockey pucks (ice hockey isn't big in Australia) but I urge other fusey owners to check this out as it could be a major underlying problem.

 

[bluefury361]

Don't know about hockey pucks (ice hockey isn't big in Australia) but I urge other fusey owners to check this out as it could be a major underlying problem.

Once the carpet is pulled aside you should be able to access the bolt and remove it for replacement.
As for the insulator. I have used sections cut from 10 ply truck tires. Just trim to obtain the desired thickness and drill a hole for the bolt and sleeve.

 

[polara71]

Really? Theres a tip....

 

[commando1]

and use the rest of the tire for sandals for the entire family.

 

[Big_John]

The hockey puck idea probably isn't too bad. They check about 90-91 durometer on the Shore A scale. (Yes... I have actually checked durometer hardness of a hockey puck). I would expect the stock bushing to be softer though... just how much I really don't know.

 

[Fratzog]

Keep in mind convertibles didnt use those isolators. My 70 Polara ragtop didnt have them just large washers as spacers. I suspect the reason being Ma Mopar wanted to reduce the additional flex created by the lack of a solid roof. My point being if the sub frames are actually interchangeable why worry about the isolators at all...

 

[commando1]

Yes... I have actually checked durometer hardness of a hockey puck..

Yet another thing I don't want to know why....

 

[Big_John]

Keep in mind convertibles didnt use those isolators. My 70 Polara ragtop didnt have them just large washers as spacers. I suspect the reason being Ma Mopar wanted to reduce the additional flex created by the lack of a solid roof. My point being if the sub frames are actually interchangeable why worry about the isolators at all...

The 80's Gran Fury cop cars had cast iron isolators instead of the rubber.

That said, my newly acquired 300 vert has rubber isolators.

 

[polara71]

Keep in mind convertibles didnt use those isolators. My 70 Polara ragtop didnt have them just large washers as spacers. I suspect the reason being Ma Mopar wanted to reduce the additional flex created by the lack of a solid roof. My point being if the sub frames are actually interchangeable why worry about the isolators at all...

Excellent point Fred!!!

 

[Husky]

Once the carpet is pulled aside you should be able to access the bolt and remove it for replacement.
As for the insulator. I have used sections cut from 10 ply truck tires. Just trim to obtain the desired thickness and drill a hole for the bolt and sleeve.

yes, the ones at the back of the subframe are bolted down through the body, so the bolt hex is directly assessible by lifting the carpet. But I am talking about the middle ("station 2" as it's officially called), where two isolators are side by side in the frame under the drivers seat. The 1970 Parts catalogue shows these bolts run UP through the frame from below and through an "insert" and then two spacers before screwing into the body. It isn't really obvious what it screws into. Guess I have to do some digging.

 

[Husky]

Keep in mind convertibles didnt use those isolators. My 70 Polara ragtop didnt have them just large washers as spacers. I suspect the reason being Ma Mopar wanted to reduce the additional flex created by the lack of a solid roof. My point being if the sub frames are actually interchangeable why worry about the isolators at all...

That's true...for some reason this "system" was only used on the 2D and 4D hard top and 4D sedan.

 

[monaco75]

There is a guy on the blumo board who used delrin. A hard type plastic, that you can cut down to the form you want. Here is a link to his thread-
http://bluesmobiles.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=owners&action=display&thread=630&page=6

Starts at post reply #78

Heres a few pictures..

 

[Husky]

There is a guy on the blumo board who used delrin. A hard type plastic, that you can cut down to the form you want. Here is a link to his thread-
http://bluesmobiles.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=owners&action=display&thread=630&page=6

Starts at post reply #78

Heres a few pictures..

Great pics! Thanks Monaco75, now that's what I'm talking about. At least the bolt is intact. You don't happen to have the dimensions of the bolt handy do you? Also, where do these bolts screw into? Will I have to cut a hole in the floor to access them? I ask because I fear I need to drill out the broken and rusted bolt and it will be difficult to do from underneath the vehicle (I don't have a hoist).

How does the top half of the original isolator (ïnsert) fit in. It looks like it has a steel sleeve that protrudes into the lower isolator? A close up pic plan view of the original assembly would be helpful as mine is crumbling rust from what I can see . Thanks again.

 

[commando1]

Zac, nice pics. Thanks.