Success, the car is alive

tbm3fan

Old Man with a Hat
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So after a week gathering the parts I needed I spent the last two days putting the HEI ignition together. Pulled (in) power from the starter relay over to pin 30 on a Tyco relay. Ground out of pin 85. Trigger, from coil brown wire, to pin 86. Power out from pin 87 feeding two 14 gauge wires into a 12 gauge terminal. From there one power wire to the module and the other was from the coil's B side. So both coil and module get power from pin 87 together.

Then double checked everything once placed in car. Then triple check again. Pulled spark plugs and opened gap to 0.45". Time to start. Sprayed some starter fluid into the carb and went to use the key to start for the first time in several years. Bam was on in 1 one thousand two. Timing a little off and went around to advance it before putting the timing light on it. By ear I had placed it at 8 BTDC, idle settle down to a super stead 750 in neutral, and power to coil was at alternator output.

Getting dark but took the car out. I could tell right away the idle was very smooth and the only thing that gave away that it was on were the mufflers. The car took off sprightly and was a whole lot quicker in moving from 25-50 mph on the boulevard. Felt nothing holding the engine back. A freeway ride at 65-70 was not in the cards for today.

Last thing that I need to get used to. I stopped for gas and when I went to start the car I never even heard the starter turn. The engine was just on and I need to be quicker releasing the key.
 
Some pictures

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This is the factory splice on an 8 gauge wire off the alternator. Heat burned and somewhat crispy. Was going to cut out and then put in a splice in a small section to join the two halves. Yet, I thought it was in two halves for a reason. So I stopped and am looking to see if I can find any 8 gauge male/female terminals that could go in and keep the two halves separate. I guess it was to ease replacement in needed given the exposure of the first half running over the engine from the alternator???
rsz_mopar_splice_burn_01.jpg
 
Congratulations and nice detailed progress of the installation.
 
This is the factory splice on an 8 gauge wire off the alternator. Heat burned and somewhat crispy. Was going to cut out and then put in a splice in a small section to join the two halves. Yet, I thought it was in two halves for a reason. So I stopped and am looking to see if I can find any 8 gauge male/female terminals that could go in and keep the two halves separate. I guess it was to ease replacement in needed given the exposure of the first half running over the engine from the alternator???
View attachment 192444
I seem to recall those connectors are associated with fusible links...
 
where did you source your parts from?
 
With a mounting plate for the hei to be placed upon
 
where did you source your parts from?

Coil: Standard Ignition FD478
Harness: Standard Ignition S539
Module: Standard Ignition LX-301
Coil cable: Standard Ignition 814CA
Mounting for module. Comes with hardware: Mopar HEI Conversion

Used 14 gauge wire. I use red for power, black for ground, and green for trigger. Insulated, shrink, 14 gauge female terminals for Tyco/Bosch relay (no cheap stuff here). One in line fuse holding a 15 amp glass fuse and 14 gauge lead wires with a round terminal to attach to the starter relay. A 12-14 gauge non-insulated butt connector where I could solder the ends and then cover in shrink insulation for the other end of the fuse line. This line terminates at pin 30 on the relay.

Get my electrical parts form this place in Sparks, NV. Easier then driving all over my place looking for it. Such as the fuse where I changed out the 20 amp fuse for a 15 amp.
Inline Heavy Duty Glass Fuse Holder 20 Amp 14 Ga. - WiringProducts

The bracket for the coil one has to make for yourself. Needed to mount the coil lower on the bracket than I show in the picture. Once I saw the air cleaner hit the plug terminal I removed it and drilled new lower holes. Also moved the 1/2" bolt hole from center to one side to set the coil away from the distributor for extra room. Just made it. I used the lower bolt hole on the OEM coil bracket only.

This fellow showed how to do it for Slant Six engines and was a guide. Needs a slightly better schematic which I am drawing up as per my method.
HEI Electronic Ignition Retrofit How-To - Slant Six Forum
 
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I seem to recall those connectors are associated with fusible links...

I wondered that too. Only it looks like the other end would be buried in that taped up wire loom just behind. There was one on the other side from battery to relay with the same connector. Only it was smaller gauge and easy to replace. This one has an 8 gauge terminal which seems to be not common after searching for one.
 
I looked at the wiring diagram and that's not for a fusible link.

Well that is good yet I am still stuck on whether I should fuse the two lines together or put a connector in place. Assuming I can ever find something for 8 gauge.
 
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