Temperature Question

[rexus31]

I had the 300 out today for the first time in about a month. When I got home and parked it, I noticed a very small wet spot on the concrete under the overflow tube. The upper hose had pressure so the cap is doing it's job. This was the first time I ran the car in hot weather (95* here today) this year. Anyway, I got my IR thermometer out and the thermostat housing was 212* but the temp sending unit only measured 187*. Why the drastic change with them being so close together? Is my thermostat going?

 

[1966newport]

sounds normal

 

[rexus31]

I'm just curios why there is such a dramatic temperature swing in the thermostat housing and temp sender being as they are so close in proximity. The little bit of fluid that leaked out the overflow was a little concerning too but the system may have just self correcting itself to the climate.

 

[Bryan]

My car does that regularly when the weather is hot. The engine temp will continue to rise after for a while after you shut the car off and the engine is confined in that little area without a fan, or air and water circulation. It is especially noticeable on a hot day and that is when you will get some overflow from the radiator. A lot of the time, I'll open the hood for an hour or so after I shut the car off on a hot day to help the engine cool down a bit better.

 

[rexus31]

Thanks Bryan. I'm still stumped by the temp change in the areas described in my previous posts.

 

[1978 NYB]

I'm assuming that the 2 points that you took the temperature readings are constructed out of different materials. While these 2 points are subjected to the same temperature of liquid (antifeeze/water mix) they will displace different exterior surface temperatures even though they are in close proximity.

 

[rexus31]

I'm assuming that the 2 points that you took the temperature readings are constructed out of different materials. While these 2 points are subjected to the same temperature of liquid (antifeeze/water mix) they will displace different exterior surface temperatures even though they are in close proximity.

That is a good point but I am taking the temperature readings on the cast iron at the temp sender and the cast iron of the thermostat housing.

 

[commando1]

In labratory tests they would conduct the test 10 times, throw out the high and low, and take the average of the remaining eight readings.

(Sent using Forum Runner)

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

Theirs an addative on the market that helps keep the temp. down a bit when added to the Water+antifreeze blend and they say it works, but my memory banks are drained and I can not come up with the name of the stuff. Racers been using it for years. Anybody care to take a shot on the Name? I'll recognize it if I here it, Jer

 

[rexus31]

Theirs an addative on the market that helps keep the temp. down a bit when added to the Water+antifreeze blend and they say it works, but my memory banks are drained and I can not come up with the name of the stuff. Racers been using it for years. Anybody care to take a shot on the Name? I'll recognize it if I here it, Jer

There are few on the market Jerry. I've tried them in my Goat and they don't work.

 

[rexus31]

I don't think I have an overheating problem, just curious as to why the two areas on the same part are very different in temp.

 

[Fratzog]

I don`t know the answer to your question but speculating is fun. It would seem logical that the coolant flow through the block would result in a gradual increase in temperature as it picks up heat reaching its max just prior to leaving the block for the rad at the thermostat. It would therefore stand to reason that you would get different readings at different points on the block. That`s my theory anyway. I`m running a 160 degree thermostat and it`s never peeed on me yet.

 

[1978 NYB]

I have a 180 thermostat in mine. I was running around in 90 degree high humidity today, heat index at 100 and she ran at the exact normal spot on the gauge as usual. Last year at Carlisle with 104 degree temp and heat index at 113......no overheating or even running hot issues.

 

[polara71]

I`m running a 160 degree thermostat and it`s never peeed on me yet.

Thats where I am at in the convertible, Fred. I also have that overflow bottle that was installed when new.

 

[commando1]

Theirs an addative on the market that helps keep the temp. down a bit when added to the Water+antifreeze blend and they say it works, but my memory banks are drained and I can not come up with the name of the stuff. Racers been using it for years. Anybody care to take a shot on the Name? I'll recognize it if I here it, Jer

It's a total scam. You're talking about WaterWetter and all that other crap. A few drops of Dawn in your coolant does the same thing and gives you the same results, which, by the way, is negligible.

 

[detmatt]

Water Weter is one of them.

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

Thanks Guyz. I had some issues at the Woodward Cruise last year. The temp gage went over the top when I stopped to take of a load of fuel but I couldn't get it cooled down because of the traffic when I pulled out of the station. I had to beg my way across 4 lanes of traffic to make a U-turn and get back on the freeway to get it cooled down again. Guess I'll have to live with the Batwagon being no Parade Queen

 

[commando1]

Nothing that a healthy dose of $$$ thrown at the entire cooling system from A-Z won't solve.

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

There's nothing in the entire system that's been left untouched Stan including a 4 row re-core, heater re-core, new heavy duty water pump. I am running without a fan clutch but their was no room for it with my build! And from everything I've learned adding an electric pusher fan in front is not a solution. My fan is moving at RPM speed if it's running and the factory shroud is in place. It'll be interesting to see if the new cerculation system of water heating the rams will have any effect + or -? Stay tuned, I'll know by the end of next weekend, Jer