Tie down points when trailering a car ‘68 Polara

HWYCRZR

Old Man with a Hat
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I am taking my car to get exhaust on a trailer. As I was starting to tie it down, I wanted to get some opinions on the best or proper way to tie it down. It has been over 10 years since I strapped it down. My thoughts would be I should tie down the axle and front a arms and let the suspension and shocks do their job.
I tie down compact construction machinery all the time but they don’t have suspension.
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You are on the right track. Up front, I use axle straps around the lower control arms close to the wheels. In the rear I also use axle straps around the axle between the leaf spring and the brake drum but you need to carefully feed the strap under the brake line. Been using this method for 25 years with no issues.
 
Some people have the rear straps going to the opposite side of the trailer, forming an X.
 
Why is it on transporters on newer cars it seems they are hooking to the top unibody or subframes? I notice that there were what look like hook spots on the rear unibody frame. Is that where transporters used to tie down? I can’t see a carrier driver taking the time to thread an axle strap past the brake lines.

Sorry, I have to suck up all the knowledge I can get. I need to find an old carrier picture and see how they did it.
 
Why is it on transporters on newer cars it seems they are hooking to the top unibody or subframes? I notice that there were what look like hook spots on the rear unibody frame. Is that where transporters used to tie down? I can’t see a carrier driver taking the time to thread an axle strap past the brake lines.

Sorry, I have to suck up all the knowledge I can get. I need to find an old carrier picture and see how they did it.
Many newer carriers use over the tire wheel straps to tie down. This allows suspension movement, something that old-school chain tie-downs tried to eliminate by compressing the suspension fully.
 
I may drive it home from the exhaust shop. Technically it will be legal for daytime driving. Turn signals brake lights and tail lights. No headlights yet.
Is also licensed and insured.
 
I couldn’t get the straps I had around the axle and under the brake line. I used the holes in the rear frame rails that the original transporters probably used and the pockets in the front sub frame and cinched it down compressing the suspension. It rode quite well.
Looking at my old pictures this is how I hauled it the 900 miles from Colorado in 2007.
 
As long as your anchor points are close they would. Although it would be pretty tight getting up in the wheelwell with the strap to loop over the tire.
Guess it can be done. Found this pic. Doesn't look super tight. This was my 72 coupe shipped from Ohio.
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