Too hot- Part 2: Wrong heater hose routing

[Padre4art]

Still trying to get to the bottom of my hot interior problem. At breakfast today with a sharp 92/year old retired Mopar mechanic, he did say there should already be a water control valve in the heater box. I read the repair manual today, there is one at the water inlet, cable activated.

I also noticed the heater hose routing in the manual is different from what is on my mostly unmolested 21,000 mile ‘64 Newport. See two photos, attached.

Could this be why on ‘cold’ (lever) and ‘air’ (push button) settings I still have quite warm air coming out the floor vent?

Thanks for help!

Art

 

[413]

You have hot water all the time to the heater core, and no heater control valve in the system. You are full hot.

The cable connects to the heater valve circled in red, your is bypassed. No way to get turn off the hot like this.

Those valves go bad an leak, so it is probably bypassed because of that

 

[Padre4art]

Thanks, I will route correctly, put a bunch of towels on the front floor, and see what happens!!

Is that valve serviceable or replaceable?

Thanks again,

Art

 

[CBODY67]

Wondering if the Volvo-sourced water valve kit for the slabs might work? 1955 Chevies also used a similar water valve as the Slabs did, IIRC.

 

[Boydsdodge]

Wondering if the Volvo-sourced water valve kit for the slabs might work? 1955 Chevies also used a similar water valve as the Slabs did, IIRC.

Could you expand on the Volvo-sourced water valve kit? I have a 67 dodge that has a seized water valve. Thanks.

 

[Padre4art]

Took a peek under the dash. It is a cable actuated water valve. Has anyone removed one of these? It’s in a tight spot!

Thanks

Art

 

[413]

Run water through it from the garden hose to see if it leaks, then you don't have to clean up or waste antifreeze. Put a piece of 5/8" heater hoses on each connection and run them upward. Then fill with warer so the valve will be submerged and let it sit to see it if holds or leaks.

They are tight to work on.

 

[CBODY67]

Could you expand on the Volvo-sourced water valve kit? I have a 67 dodge that has a seized water valve. Thanks.

It was mentioned in here a while back. Like a year or so?

 

[noah300g]

There is/was a Ranco valve repair kit available at NAPA about 5 or 6 years ago when I bought one. Really cheap, but you must remove the valve from the car (removing glovebox first helps) and then carefully pry tabs up to dismantle the valve to replace the rubber parts inside.

 

[Gerald Morris]

DISCONNECT THAT HEATER TOTALLY FOR NOW! You don't need it this time of year. Use either plugs or a short heater hose loop for your water pump's heater hose connections.

Now, having taken the steps above, use a 5/8" garden hose on the inlet side of your heater, and for that matter, another on the outlet. Run the outlet to the street if you like. Pressurize, then chase down the leak. If indeed it is the valve, you simply will have to do some "driver-seat-yoga," stand on your head in a pretzel shape, then remove said leaky valve, and the likely short rubber hose bits often used to connect things in the heater box. I have a similar task awaiting me either this autumn or next.

ONE thing I did which has worked well for now has been to slip a 1/2" OD hose inside the heater inlet, which made it past the rotten old rubbers in the box, as I intended, et voila! NO INTERIOR LEAK FOR THE PAST 2 WINTERS!!!

IDK if such an expedient would help you though, but HEY! It did better for us down here than we expected, buying us several years. Sometimes, when thinking "inside the box" one must think "inside the tubing" as well!

You can even resort to using an extra valve, upline of the old one, in the engine compartment, and eliminate what's in your box altogether. There be ways....

Good luck!

 

[Padre4art]

Good evening all…

Wanted to bring you up-to-date on my “too hot“ situation.

Today I unhooked the bypass hose that was attached to the heater control valve put on a couple of 2 foot lengths of heater hose and poured water through it and a lot of it wound up on the passenger compartment floor!

I guess this is not unexpected!

I have read some directions on how to remove the heater control valve by unhooking the bowden cable from the control button assembly. I was not able to remove the control button assembly far enough to see or detach the Bowden cable unit from it.

I was able to get my hand on the heater control valve under the dash, using my best form of geriatric gymnastics. It almost look like I might have room to drag it by the bowden cable, and by the copper filament toward the center of the dashboard and then remove it and remove the Bowden cable at that point just below the heater outlet.

I appreciate all your helpful comments, and hope for a few more!

1) Your thoughts on ‘dragging it out’ towards dash center.
2) Thoughts on how to remove heater button assembly far enough to detach Bowden cable?

The easiest solution would be to put a shutoff valve in the heater hose. But I’m slightly anally retentive about originality!

Thanks all,

Art

 

[Gerald Morris]

Good evening all…

Wanted to bring you up-to-date on my “too hot“ situation.

Today I unhooked the bypass hose that was attached to the heater control valve put on a couple of 2 foot lengths of heater hose and poured water through it and a lot of it wound up on the passenger compartment floor!

I guess this is not unexpected!

I have read some directions on how to remove the heater control valve by unhooking the bowden cable from the control button assembly. I was not able to remove the control button assembly far enough to see or detach the Bowden cable unit from it.

I was able to get my hand on the heater control valve under the dash, using my best form of geriatric gymnastics. It almost look like I might have room to drag it by the bowden cable, and by the copper filament toward the center of the dashboard and then remove it and remove the Bowden cable at that point just below the heater outlet.

I appreciate all your helpful comments, and hope for a few more!

1) Your thoughts on ‘dragging it out’ towards dash center.
2) Thoughts on how to remove heater button assembly far enough to detach Bowden cable?

The easiest solution would be to put a shutoff valve in the heater hose. But I’m slightly anally retentive about originality!

Thanks all,

Art

I can dig the desire for originality! Damned if that sometimes makes for a LOT of agony for the result, but, the value of your machine, aesthetic and fiduciary both increases when it's done right. Hey, for short term, put the ball valve on under the hood, then, when you're good and ready, do the Great Battle. I don't envy you, but I know that sooner or later, I too have such an duty to perform. With your ride, its going to be harder even than mine, so I'll pray to St. Joe that you have Everything Right and Ready when the Ordeal commences. I don't think there is any easy way for it there, really. Maybe find an adolescent assistant, but damned if they can LISTEN to instruction. I'm just glad my old junky joints still permit me to perform Driver Seat Yoga when needed....

 

[Dante64]

You have hot water all the time to the heater core, and no heater control valve in the system. You are full hot.

The cable connects to the heater valve circled in red, your is bypassed. No way to get turn off the hot like this.

Those valves go bad an leak, so it is probably bypassed because of that

View attachment 724644

 

[Dante64]

Greetings,
I have the same situation facing me. In researching I’ve found these outfits. Hopefully will help. In the meantime… I would use the U shapes bypass hose and put in on the water pump housing. That’s worked for me.
Cheers.