Torqueflite 727 or Torque converter Problems ???

BigBlockJoe

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Hello to all Car Friends,

I am a newby member from Hamburg Germany. I am a owner of a 1978 Chrysler Newport with a 400 cui engine. And this is my very first post.

First I want to thank a lot of different People. I gathered a lot of different valueable informations for my Projects.

Now a description of my little "Problem"

In the last two month i spend a lot of time with a tiny caburetor repair. At the end it was a total let me say "Chrysler Lean Burn Carnage / removement "

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This is what i swapped / changed:

1.) New 1905 Edelbrock Q-Jet
2.) New Mopar ECU ( the orange box ) with a new distribtor with vacuum advance
3.) New Edelbrock Air Cleaner
4.) A new high energy MSD Blaster2
5.) 8 new spark cables and plugs
6.) New Breather
7.) PCV Valve to air cleaner ( not to the edelbrock PCV port )
8.) New Voltage Regulator
9.) All hoses has been renewed
10.) All vaccum plugs has been renewed
11.) The Kickdown linkage hast been checked and reset to factory values.
12.) All fluid Levels are within specifications

Additional to this i gave the car to a Special Garage in Germany. The carburetor was calibrated, The ignition Timing was set to 14 degrees btdc Initial. The Intake manifold has been resealed ( no air leaks at all )

Now everything seems to be fine. the car is starting just second after cranking. The car is idling very smooth. The accerleration from the traffic light ist good ( for a 2 ton car ). No hestitations / No backfires etc. The tranny is shifting very smooth without runaways or other Problems. the car shifts good. The Engagement is very smooth.

But if i push the pedal to the metal ( Kickdown 3rd to 1st gear, the accerleration is very poor. It feels like the car is connected to a big rubberband. But when i release the throttle for a quick Moment and push the pedal again the car is accerlerating fine. It seems to be that this Problem just happens when i push the pedal 100 percent ( the tiny kickdown Switch / resitance in the pedal )

I am running out of ideas.

:70s_rule:

Can anybody enlight me what the Problem could be.

Thanks i advance

Markus
 
Welcome!

I am not sure why you chose the Edelbrock Quadrajet replacement rather than the Performer AVS series that would more often replace the stock Thermoquad, but in any case, it seems most likely that you need to readjust the secondary air valve, which I am pretty sure that carburetor you have does have. It is too tight, which ends up restricting air flow when you open the throttle fully. You need to loosen the adjustment so the air valve opens a little more easily. I would go back to the technician that did the service/installation on the vehicle and have him look at this setting. If the transmission is fine every other way, and really does kick down from 3 to 1, but the engine just bogs, the transmission is likely fine. And then if it isn't really kicking down as it should be, then you might need to adjust the kickdown linkage to make sure you are getting the throttle shaft to go fully rearward at wide open throttle, so the 3 to 1 kick down really does happen. Given the different linkages you must have needed to install a quadrajet based carburetor, that too could be a likely source of problems. It could be one or both areas need attention. Good luck.
 
Hello saforwardlook,

thank you for your quick reply.

the 1905 was recommended from a big sped shop in Hamburg.

But your idea to take care of the air valve sound Logical, because everything seems to be fine ( expected the kickdown )

I also think that the Garage did not pay any Attention to this part. i will ask them tommorow.

Now I know what i have to check when get back to my car.

Do you have any documents / WWW liks or other Information to set the air valve to the right Settings.

thank you

Mopar rules

:sSig_greetingsthor:

Markus
 
So all the new ones left are in Europe now I guess. That carb was discontinued by Edelbrock a long time ago.

Posted via Topify on Android
 
Hello saforwardlook,

thank you for your quick reply.

the 1905 was recommended from a big sped shop in Hamburg.

But your idea to take care of the air valve sound Logical, because everything seems to be fine ( expected the kickdown )

I also think that the Garage did not pay any Attention to this part. i will ask them tommorow.

Now I know what i have to check when get back to my car.

Do you have any documents / WWW liks or other Information to set the air valve to the right Settings.

thank you

Mopar rules

:sSig_greetingsthor:

Markus

Markus, I am only familiar with the secondary air valve settings for the Thermoquad and AVS carburetors that came from the factory. And while those carburetors had factory specifications specific for each model, even then it still took some trial and error to eliminate a bog from too loose (opens too quickly and leads to a lean out situation) or too tight, which means it is too hard to open for the airflow desired, leading to a rich bogging condition. For the Edelbrock Quadrajet based carburetor you have , you will have to play with the settings until you get it right, taking it out for a test drive with each adjustment. Also, even though your carburetor was discontinued, as Stan said, some time ago, calling the Edelbrock hot line for information may be your best bet, as they are usually pretty good at actually helping their customers get the results desired. Just to be clear, the air valve must open just the right amount at just the right time to have an even transition without bogging on heavy accelerations, which is governed by the amount of spring tension on the secondary air valve located above the secondary throttle plates. So you need to play with the wind up spring tension until you get it right.

Also, as stated previously, make sure then the throttle is wide open that the throttle pressure lever shaft on the transmission also goes fully rearward to ensure you get the 3 to 1 kickdown as desired. Good luck.
 
Hello Saforwardlook,

sorry for the very late response. I went back to my car and checked the secondary air valve. Your tip is a 100 percent hit. The problem was, that the flap of the secondary jammed a little bit to the carburetor housing. I removed the flap an grinded it a little bit. Now the flap ist moving soft and without any Problems.

Now the car is running perfect. When i push the pedal to metal the tires are writing some black lines into the street.

Thank you so much.

Markus

:3gears:
 
I have 2 1978's.......a NYB and a Newport.

Do your windshield wipers work? If they do....be very careful when operating them in cold weather. Don't try to turn them on when the wiper blades could be frozen to the windshield and don't try to clear the snow off the windshield if you have snow on it. The wiper cam will break and there really isn't anything (that really works) as a replacement. You'll have to mod the wiper motor linkage to the 74-77 small cam.
 
As far as your kickdown problem....

Carsten mention the carb possibly not being able to go to WOT. Check that first before messing with other adjustments. I had to redrill a hole on the kickdown lever because it wouldn't go to the WOT position. Check how far it will go back with the linkage hooked up and then disconnect the linkage and see if the carb opens up farther. That was a problem on my NYB. I have an Eddie 1406 on an Eddie Performer intake and I used the stock linkage and I wasn't getting WOT on the carb. BTW, I still need to drill the hole....I'll get to it one of these days. LOL!
 
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