Trouble with manifold nut.
- Thread starter Shamu70
- Start date
Xenon
Senior Member
Six point thin wall 3/8 drive deep well.....
Never use an open end wrench.....
Never use an open end wrench.....
If the exhaust manifold stud is original, and if your don't do as 413 suggested (I would soak it in Kroil), you will likely break the stud, and then you will have even have more fun.
From my experience, it seems in 1971 the studs were a little higher grade steel than the factory 1970 ones. Those earlier ones broke really easily.
Also, I have found that trying to tighten the nut a little before trying to back it off might also save the stud from breaking (after cleaning the threads and soaking the studs)
Good luck.
From my experience, it seems in 1971 the studs were a little higher grade steel than the factory 1970 ones. Those earlier ones broke really easily.
Also, I have found that trying to tighten the nut a little before trying to back it off might also save the stud from breaking (after cleaning the threads and soaking the studs)
Good luck.
69PHOENIX
Active Member
Forgive Me if I'm Wrong. (I'm Not Used to Being Told I'm Wrong, I've been a Bachelor All My Life.)
But as I Remember The Studs go All the Way Into the Water Jacket.
Great Care & Patience needs to be Used, Otherwise "There Will be Tears"
I seem to Remember My Nephew telling his Mother he had learned some New Words from me the Day I Broke a Couple of Studs.
Boy Did I get into Trouble. (Rotten Little Dobber.)
Eventually the Engine had to come out.
Patience & Plenty of Backwards & Forwards is All I can Suggest, Hope It's Not Your Daily Driver.
Anyway if You can Afford it I'd check the Price of Stainless Replacements.
I Know, I Know, They've Lasted 50 Yrs this Time But You Never Know.
Best of Luck, Tony.M
But as I Remember The Studs go All the Way Into the Water Jacket.
Great Care & Patience needs to be Used, Otherwise "There Will be Tears"
I seem to Remember My Nephew telling his Mother he had learned some New Words from me the Day I Broke a Couple of Studs.
Boy Did I get into Trouble. (Rotten Little Dobber.)
Eventually the Engine had to come out.
Patience & Plenty of Backwards & Forwards is All I can Suggest, Hope It's Not Your Daily Driver.
Anyway if You can Afford it I'd check the Price of Stainless Replacements.
I Know, I Know, They've Lasted 50 Yrs this Time But You Never Know.
Best of Luck, Tony.M
Do you have an oxy/acetylene torch? Then heat the nut to a dull orange and let it cool for a few minutes, then wire brush it and spray it, the nut will come off easily. Doesnt need to get bright orange.
The studs are 3/8” and good quality. I reuse the originals plenty of times. Use anti seize lubricant on reassembly,
The studs are 3/8” and good quality. I reuse the originals plenty of times. Use anti seize lubricant on reassembly,
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
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Even MAP gas would get it hot enough.
When I rebuild an engine, I put grade 8 studs in place and use stainless nuts or maybe brass and also use anti-seize compounds on them. I also use exhaust manifold gaskets despite the engines originally did not have them.
Any better ideas out there?
Any better ideas out there?
The second one from the back is also a problem ,feels like the stud is turning out.
It's a toy car, so I'm not in a hurry. Thing is, I put that manifold on 6 years ago.
That nut up front that I can't get a socket on, I can feel that the nut is very close to the manifold body; how'd I get it on?
Maybe I can use an adjustable wrench?
Still looking for a thinwall socket though.
It's a toy car, so I'm not in a hurry. Thing is, I put that manifold on 6 years ago.
That nut up front that I can't get a socket on, I can feel that the nut is very close to the manifold body; how'd I get it on?
Maybe I can use an adjustable wrench?
Still looking for a thinwall socket though.
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