Using boiled linseed oil on enamel paint

yellowkeeble

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Hello everyone-

I'm planning on washing my car pretty thoroughly this weekend and attempting to use boiled linseed oil to give it some shine again. The paint is all original, 67 Plymouth Fury III, but no where near show quality. It's not in the budget to paint anytime soon but i wanted to get some luster back. My buddy suggested the boiled linseed oil as it helped his 55 Dodge pickup look pretty good, accentuating the patina with trying to cover it up.


Does anyone have any tips or techniques that would give me the best results?

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Are you flucking nutz?
That ain't a house you're painting.


Or are you goofing on us?

Leave that grungy body as is. Perfect backdrop to the surprise under the hood.

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Great car, love the roofline!
 
My son sells for a large oil and lubricant distributor. They also sell a line of auto detail products and he gave me something to try.

It was called Hydro Shine by Auto Magic. You wash the car and then spray this stuff on while the car is still wet and towel it off. I tried it on my company car that only gets washed if it rains. It was amazing.....

I was at a customers the next day.... One of the guys working there came up to me and asked if that was my Impala parked out in the lot.... I said yes and was expecting to get told I have to move it when he told me how nice the paint was on it. Yea.... It did that good a job.

I've brought back paint jobs like yours from the dead.... Most of what you have on there is oxidation. Red is really bad for that. I've used different products, but it's all pretty much the same stuff. If I were to do it today, judging by the pictures, I'd first would give it a good wash with dawn dishwashing detergent. Next I would claybar the entire car. It really doesn't take that long to do and that would pull all the crap off the finish. Then I'd use a foam pad on a orbital buffer and a decent quality buffing compound. Wash again and apply your favorite wax.

It will look a lot better than wiping linseed oil all over it.... Yea, it will kill an afternoon rather than a few minutes.... but your car will be much better for it.

Obligatory "cloud in the hood reflection pic" from my old GTP Grand Prix.

 
It was amazing.....

I just sent 26 bucks to Amazon for a qt of that Hydro Shine because of you.
It had damn better be good... :D


Damn that Amazon Prime one-click shopping... grrrr
 
I just sent 26 bucks to Amazon for a qt of that Hydro Shine because of you.
It had damn better be good... :D


Damn that Amazon Prime one-click shopping... grrrr

Hey... I didn't twist your arm...

Seriously... search Hydro shine on You Tube. There's a bunch of Russians using the stuff on black cars that's pretty impressive.
 
I used the clay bar on my imp when I got it and the paint had a similar lack of shine that yours does, it worked wonders. Don't forget that that's single stage paint and could actually be color sanded with care and probably shine like new provided it's not too thin.
 
just a good old buffer and meguiars steps 2 and 3 will make a big difference. my newport has been sitting in a barn since 96 and i put that on it and thats all i have used on all of my cars
 
just a good old buffer and meguiars steps 2 and 3 will make a big difference. my newport has been sitting in a barn since 96 and i put that on it and thats all i have used on all of my cars

Agreed I have buffed out every car with old tired paint, with great results. I have had the best results with 3M Imperial polish. If this doesn't cut it you can use the 3M rubbing compound but that is very aggressive. I always start with the imperial polish first.

You need a real spinning buffer not a vibrating type. The other has its place but not paint in your condition. Be very carful on the edges you can burn through paint right now. If you are a beginner, I would buy some 1/4 to tape any of the edges to protect the paint. When you are done you pull the tape and lightly buff.

For nasty paint this is a must. A cleaning spur, cleans out the buffing pad.

~

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Here is an example.
The 1st is washed and the left side is buffed out.

Second as it was pulled out of the po garage

~

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I love looking at your car Mike, you just never see cars in that color......Carlisle is mandatory for you this year
 
Boys ya done good on this thread. I've got some products to purchase (Hydro-Shine) and a clay bar to use in the meantime. I admit that I rather pull the negine out and put it back in all day long over cleaning and deatiling but this old mare ain't gonna clean herself.
 
You can actually buy a clay bar mitt that works much better as it covers a larger area and is very efficient. Mind you, it's not real clay on one side but it works perfectly well. The back side is foam so you can wipe off the spot you just barred. Rinse it off in a bucket occasionally, apply some lube, and carry on. This one is probably more than you wish to spend but it works great with no scratching. You can find them all over the net.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Surface_Cleansing_Mitt_Fine_Grade_Clay_Kit_p/cly_311.htm
 
Never saw one of those.... Interesting. I wonder how long it lasts. With regular clay you kneed it to get a new surface... and you toss it after a while or if you drop it on the ground. They don't say anything about that in the video.

I read once, but never saw it confirmed, that Chemical Guys make all the claybar products for everyone. That doesn't surprise me. I worked next door to a company that made a lot of waxes and polishes for other companies. I never found out which companies. There's a few places around the country that do the same. Adams, for example, doesn't make their own stuff...
 
I took teh clay bar to sections of the car and used a buffing compound to bring back some of the shine, all Meguiars products. It looks much better but may need a wet sanding to get rid of the orange peel.
 
Also, my trans guy (not transexual you weirdos) adjusted the valve body and I've got 3rd gear. Hale-freaking-lujah!!!! I'm going to clean up the paint as much as possible and replace the rest of the rubber shortly. I replaced teh trunk and found that I'm getting water through the moulding holes into the trunk. So new moulding nuts have been ordered with the neoprene backer to stop th ewater infiltration. Then I can go about replacing the trunk as winter will be here shortly.
 
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