Vacuum actuated water valve leak - 69 300

pmschmitt

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Noticed this leaking (very slowly) on my 300 the other day you can tell there is water escaping from the calcium build up.

I checked with O' Reilly they had never heard of the part. The hoses are old and need to be replaced, but I was wondering if this vacuum actuated water valve has a gasket or can be rebuilt or if the whole problem stems from old heater tube lines an poor clamps to seal them off.

Pics attached

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Next time you go there just say:
1969,
Chrysler,
300,
7.2
Heater valve,
With or without A/C.
Period.

Anything more and their brain goes up in smoke.

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Last edited:
Those OEM bakelight water valves are known for their fragility and cracking and warping. They are pretty must toast once they start leaking. You can still find NOS ones for under $100, or you can go with an aftermarket metal unit that will probably last you a lifetime.

This is the one I'm pretty sure I had on my 70 Sport fury with AC....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-1969-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ce53cea9d&vxp=mtr

$(KGrHqZHJBYFHyTwqIb7BS!VZmF2WQ~~60_12.JPG
 
Next time you go there just say:
1969,
Chrysler,
300,
7.2
Heater valve,
With or without A/C.
Period.

Anything more and their brain goes up in smoke.

Posted via Topify on Android

If I recall this is an AC only part, none of my non AC cars (4) had a valve, all the AC ones (4) did.


Alan
 
These valves came on a/c cars only as Alan states, and the original bakelite housings are prone to cracking in about 2 years of occasional use. They are just junk. I have no idea how any durability testing of those original valves could have ever allowed them to be approved for production. While the metal ones do not look original, they will work for a long time.
 
Just checked with RA.
I see they don't have it.
Apparently an A/C heater valve is a tough find? Yes?

2n1uxx4.jpg
 
So it seems ebay is the way to go? Anybody else have a source for this part? Always appreciate the help. I am fine with a metal one I just need it to work
 
The original valves are occasionally found on ebay still, but they are pricey, somewhere just a little south of $100, and for a couple years of use, it hardly seems worth it. Go with the metal valve and then you can forget about it.
 
Has anyone just bypassed this valve (routing water right back into the block)? Mine started leaking today and appeared to be the original component. There's usually not a need for heat down here in south Florida. Jim
 
Has anyone just bypassed this valve (routing water right back into the block)? Mine started leaking today and appeared to be the original component. There's usually not a need for heat down here in south Florida. Jim

Sure you can, then your car becomes like the non-a/c cars. But don't expect your a/c system, if it works, to do much good trying to cool hot air from the heater core should you need cool air in Florida.
 
guessing this was a common issue from what l understand to point even the 71 came modded
 
Mine went too. I looked around when I was at Carlisle and couldn't find one. I have seen some replacements on Ebay.... Just haven't seen one for the right price yet. I did some research into using an alternative from a newer car. The hose configuration is one issue and then most of them work backwards regarding the vacuum signal. Full vacuum opens the Chrysler valve if you're interested.

So... I have a ball valve on my heater hose right now until I figure it out.

The alternatives are you can either put a manual valve in the line like I did or you can just make a loop of hose at the engine and bypass the heater completely. Since you are in Florida, I'd go with the valve as a permanent fix. Then you can use the heat if needed, but for 99% of your driving it will not be needed.
 
I guess I'm good for at least 4 more years. There were two new ones in my stash of parts that came with the wagon.
 
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