ideologist
Member
I'm thinking my regulator crapped out, does anyone know which replacement part is correct? I see NOS units for $180 but I'm not paying that. I have a 65 NYer
Voltage regulator
- Thread starter ideologist
- Start date
Get one from @FURYGT . They look close to the OEM, or at least like the replacement aftermarket units that you would have bought when the car was new, but they have the electronic internals.
ideologist
Member
Thanks, I'll send a PM
volksworld
Well-Known Member
just got one of those myself to replace the old direct connection electronic one (running electronic ignition)...havent installed it yet though
Thanks John! Patrick, I have replied to your PM.
The Goose
Senior Member
stubs300
Senior Member
Good Luck!
swisherred
Senior Member
Id like to hijack this thread.....as its related. I bought the VR from furygt and have been very happy with it. I also replaced the dash VR with the solid state one. Cant remember but it might have come from him too. I am still seeing my interior and dash lights increase brightness with RPM though. Thoughts? ammeter increases with rpm too. idle is just below center, 2k is about +1/4
cbarge
World Famous Barge in a Budget
1.With your headlights on??
2.Did you do the ammeter bypass under the hood yet??
Solid state for the IP. Will help steady gauges, but no effect on your headlights.
Don’t wanna, but need to pull IP to modify regulator
RT-engineering.
MOPAR Products
IVR-4 or IVR-3 depending on your year.
I did solid state main regulator first. But my dash was still bouncing due to the old mechanical one. This settled it down.
Don’t wanna, but need to pull IP to modify regulator
RT-engineering.
MOPAR Products
IVR-4 or IVR-3 depending on your year.
I did solid state main regulator first. But my dash was still bouncing due to the old mechanical one. This settled it down.
3175375
Senior Member
Thank you. I’ll order 2 of them (IVR-3).
ideologist
Member
Where is the instrument panel VR? How is the affected if you want to swap to LEDs? My nighttime visibility sucks
cbarge
World Famous Barge in a Budget
The voltage limiter for the panel is either inside the fuel gauge or mounted on the back of the panel--depending on which model of C you have..
The instrument panel voltage limiter is not affected by the panel's lighting. Separate circuits.
Its purpose is reduce 12 volts to 5 volts to run the gauges in the panel.
As for your poor vibility you shoulda ate yer carrots like yer momma told you so,LOL!!
swisherred
Senior Member
Headlights off. Headlights are on their own harness now too..never bypassed the ammeter.
cbarge
World Famous Barge in a Budget
You have GOT to bypass the ammeter.
Run a wire from the battery stud back of alternator 7/16 nut. Use 10 gauge and connect it to a 14 gauge fusible link and bolt it to the battery stud of starter relay 1/2 inch nut.
Done.
This will save your car!!
ideologist
Member
This is still on my tune up list, thanks for reminding me. Easy covid shutdown task
swisherred
Senior Member
I have heard of it but do not understand the point of removing the ammeter from the loop. I removed the headlights from the in car harness cutting out a large portion of the power running through it. I kinda like having it doing it's job....
The theory is that the ammeter can't handle the current that passes through it. IMHO, the problem is blown way out of proportion.
If you are running a lot of extra current draw, like you have electric fans or big amplifiers, then yes, you may want to bypass the ammeter. Most of the problems I've seen are related to hacked up wiring. Sometimes the connections on the back of the ammeter get loose and that can cause excessive heat.
I'm not saying it's a bad mod by any means, I did the "Nacho" type bypass myself on my car, but quite frankly, I don't know as I really needed to. In a '70 and up car, the power wire in the steering column is often cooked from an undersized connection and that was more my concern rather than the ammeter. Around 72, Chrysler started using a shunted ammeter that didn't pass the full amount of current through it, so yes, there was a concern as the amount of current needed started to increase with the addition of things like the federally mandated rear window defogger.
Since you've cut the amount of current dramatically with taking the headlights out of the loop (I assume a relay system), I don't think that you need to do the bypass.
swisherred
Senior Member
I used a dual relay system. one for LB and one for HB wired directly to the battery on a fuse. The headlight switch simply controls the relays now. All the headlight wiring was increased to 12g fiberglass insulated motor wire and new blade connectors installed. I do however intend to install the power seats and windows and later a better radio and amp, but the radio portion will never be run through the bulkhead. I guess I will check it for now, but probably leave it if all seems in good shape...but probably rewire the entire car down the road.
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