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The front channel (plastic covered "mouse furr" with dowels), I believe is in repro. Rollers and such might cross with B/E-body cars, so checking those repro websites might be an option. CBODY67

IF somebody knows how to read the cuts on the keys AND has a good hand cutter, new keys on new blanks of the correct cut code are very possible and easy to do. If you just trace the old key onto a new blank, you've got a new blank with worn cuts on it. Chrysler sold ign and door lock sets...

What you are displaying is how a quick car thief would do it. Good pictures. In the world of Saginaw steering columns, the two key cyl retention methods are used. The screw or the spring-loaded end tab. As Saginaw built the Chrysler columns to Chrysler specs, there were still some...

The "bulkhead connector" is on the backside of the fuse block, engine side. That's the connection between things "under hood" and "in the passenger compartment". If you have to work the switch a certain way to get it to work, that can be a wear issue with the internal contacts of the switch...

FWIW, that bucket seat interior, other than the center console, is just like the one in my '67 Newport FastTop. Mine is in white. It is ALSO the same seat pattern as the '67 Chrysler 300 interior, which came with buckets. 1968 300s were different. Otherwise, the other trim differences for...

There is no "timer" in the switch. It's a direct situation. If the contacts were dirty, there probably would not be a "response time", just a "no go" situation. I suspect you'll be needing to get into the motor instead. If it is "reaction time" you are concerned with, that's where the...

MUCH easier to find some thick and fluffy luxury bath towels to put on the orig seats. Then you can slide better to get in and out of the car. I do that on my leather interior vehicles. MUCH less expensive, too. For the seat backs, make a drape and sew one side so that it all slides over the...

I believe the issue is not only the upper layer of "finish vinyl", but also the foam under it dries out and shrinks, too. At this point in time, about the only thing you can do is get one of the carpet "dash protectors" and lay on top of the existing pad. I'm not sure where to get one, though...

It always reminded me of the backside of "Masonite" board, due to the pattern in it. Better than just the pressed paper boards normally used. The slots for the rear speaker were cut, although just one speaker could be used, YET two 6x9s do fit nicely! Color? Probably a dye to seal the...

Yes, the front floor sections are the same. As for the second seat area, they might be close enough to a Dodge rear carpet to work. Reason is that the wheelbase of the C-body wagons is the same as for the normal Dodge C-body cars (Polara and Monaco) at 122". Past that, to do the rear section...

One reason to get a factory power seat is that you can run the seat track all the way to the bottom to get the seat closer to the floor. Some manual seat tracks (as in Chrysler Cloud Cars) have a manual lever for that, but not all manual tracks do. Heated seats can be powered separately, but...

How hard are you pulling on it to get it to do that? Will the lever still work? One night years ago, when my '77 Camaro was still a used car, I hit a dip a bit faster than suspected and the front suspension bottomed out. I found the steering wheel on top of my thighs, although it was adjusted...

The magnets might be small by modern standards, but they are BIG by the standard of when the car was built. Might need some countersunk-style screws to mount the speakers, rather than what is in there now? Some which are flatter that do not stick up so much. Is there a flange toward the lower...

What issue are you having that you need to get that "deep" into the column?

Is this not covered in the Chrysler Factory Service Manual? Free download at www.mymopar.com . T & T steering columns were only on Chryslers and Imperials, as Plymouth and Dodges had the tilt column only, as a general rule, by the time the Fuselage Cars happened. Yet T&T columns were in all...

Aurora Designs is one place many in here have used for such upgrades. NOW it appears Gary Tayman is now a part of a worldwide network of converters! www.tech-retro.com is the website. For some reason, that link might not work from this forum, so paste it into your search engine to get there...

Somewhere, hidden in the pages of the sales brochures dialogue, the name of any woodgrain would be mentioned. Especially if it was deemed to indicate a unique grain of wood, rather than the more mundane "dark walnut". Usually not mentioned in the Color and Trim Guide, from my experiences...

Great that they discovered the "metallic/pearl" content of the Chrysler trim codes (with 1974 being the first year of "normal" colors, in fabrics and vinyl/leather upholstery). Thanks for the advisory!

I'm thinking you remove the belt and shroud as one item. Then remove the retractor assy form the belt and then the belt comes out. There might be a molded-in retainer in the shroud that might need to be reformed a bit, but not much for it to hold the bolt end of the belt?

Yes, that is how our '66 Newport Town Sedan came from the factory. If you look at the complete "circle" the belts make, when joined, it makes for a more gradual and spread-out "force application" to the person's body. Rather than the more U-shaped shape if they were done otherwise. It also...