1972 New Yorker ignition lock cylinder slide hammer yank out.

[Just Carbs]

FOR TAB RETAINED CYLINDERS. NOT FOR THE LATER SCREW RETAINED CYLINDERS.

The rotating lock "tumbler case" is difficult to drill, very hard stuff. The chances are high that the drill bit will break before the drilling is done. The cylinder "bezel" and "outer" stationary cylinder are soft.
The slide hammer easily removes the soft bezel with no drilling so the cylinder can be attacked. The little Dremel with the course "cutting" wheel (not grinding wheel) easily cuts a cross into the hard lock "tumbler" case face that the key slides into so the slide hammer can remove the tumbler and cylinder assembly.
The soft "outer" cylinder breaks with very little effort. It didn't take a big hit to get it out. The whole rigmarole was about ten minutes. The new one with key slides in, no tools needed.
This cylinder is retained by the little dark curved tab in the picture.

So, hit it with the slide hammer, or just take the wheel off and take the steering column apart.

The later ones that are retained with a screw "will" break the steering column collar if a slide hammer removal is attempted. Know what cylinder you have.

 

[CBODY67]

What you are displaying is how a quick car thief would do it. Good pictures.

In the world of Saginaw steering columns, the two key cyl retention methods are used. The screw or the spring-loaded end tab. As Saginaw built the Chrysler columns to Chrysler specs, there were still some similarities between what Chrysler used and what GM Carline divisions used. What I'm going to mention is what I have seen in Chevy/GM service manuals. In some model years and different assy plants, the columns used could all "look the same", but have either key cyl retention orientation.

One service manual had illustrations of how to identify the retention method. Should the "screw" not be visible, the manual indicated a "square" part of the casting which had to be knocked-out to get to and depress the locking tab. That part of the casting was thinner than surrounding areas to facilitate such "knock-out" actions. When the "window" was cleared, the locking tab is visible and can be depressed to allow the key cyl to be easily removed.

This is where reading the Chrysler or GM or Ford or otherwise Factory Service Manual can come in handy and be informative!

In destroying the key cyl to use the slide hammer, DO ensure you have a new keyed cylinder at hand to put in the place of the destroyed one. Then getting the door cylinders re-coded to match the new ignition key.

Thanks for the great pictures and comments,
CBODY67

 

[Just Carbs]

I was able to identify this cylinder by model and year.
None of my locks work well anymore with any of the original or recut keys. 200k miles.
So, I got new locks and keys for everything. One key for ignition and doors, one key for trunk and glove box. With spares. $50.

 

[CBODY67]

IF somebody knows how to read the cuts on the keys AND has a good hand cutter, new keys on new blanks of the correct cut code are very possible and easy to do. If you just trace the old key onto a new blank, you've got a new blank with worn cuts on it.

Chrysler sold ign and door lock sets, with keys. Might have been pricey back then, but much less expensive than a locksmith. Aftermarket generally does a good job of supplying keys and cyinders these days, by observation.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Just Carbs]

The new keys that I had cut from the very worn old nonoriginal keys work just like the very worn old nonoriginal keys. It takes a lot of up and down and in and out to get the tumblers to line up just right with the moon and stars. The lock-ease did make it nice and easy to finagle the key, but no joy otherwise. Basically, the old keys are toast. Smooth as glass.
But, the new one's work perfectly. Slide right in, turn right over.
No regrets. Time and money well spent; I think at this time.